tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post7687418233512498080..comments2024-03-15T04:27:26.708-07:00Comments on An Affordable Wardrobe: Reader Questions : Darts or No Darts?Joehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-3852375415018550342014-10-24T10:27:19.907-07:002014-10-24T10:27:19.907-07:00Why don't you ask every tailor on Savile Row o...Why don't you ask every tailor on Savile Row or in Naples?Joehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-73440278093444318552014-10-24T04:06:51.268-07:002014-10-24T04:06:51.268-07:00Why would I want to wear a jacket with two ugly sc...Why would I want to wear a jacket with two ugly scars on the chest? <br /><br />No thank you.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-73493537834112038092014-10-22T16:45:06.423-07:002014-10-22T16:45:06.423-07:00Didn't properly read the whole article, only t...Didn't properly read the whole article, only the headline really -- but to answer your question I would say darts definitely. Although bar billiards and table football are fun too.<br /><br />One-hundred-and eighty!!!Nicknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-80820149939658437302014-10-19T16:25:02.999-07:002014-10-19T16:25:02.999-07:00If the jacket has no sidebody and also no front da...If the jacket has no sidebody and also no front dart (as was the case with the real sack-coat)then all the shaping on the front part relies on the under-arm dart (or 'fish') for shape. The addition of a front dart means shape can be added without having to cut large darts.<br /><br />I don't quite understand the lack of a front dart on East-Coast style because it was informed by British tailoring. The historical American sack coat does not always look like those shapeless lounges described in Flusser. As early as 1915 you see drafts using both underarm and front darts for suppression and shape (see H.Simons drafting manuals).<br /><br />The later American coats all use under-arm darts when there is no separate sidebody and some are just 'drape' cut coats, folowing the trend of the time. The American coat has not looked like a genuine sack coat for a very long time.<br /><br />British tailors always called very padded shoulders 'American shoulders', since they always had more padding than many British coats. I don't know what era this dates from. All coats whether British or American had minimal padding up to at least the 1920s.Marchttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00354635601579291164noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-27342787807791214592014-10-19T11:22:52.555-07:002014-10-19T11:22:52.555-07:00"Reader Ryan" here....
As usual sir, ano...<br />"Reader Ryan" here....<br />As usual sir, another solid entry! I'm glad you fielded my question, because I find so many bloggers too dogmatic about what details have to go with what, and why...it all becomes burdensome after a while! While I wore flats to buck trends, I'm finding, not too dissimilar from yourself, that wearing darts and pleats have become my new rebellion to conformity. That said however, I would concur that when suiting yourself, one should wear what compliments...instead of squeezing into what doesn't.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-88076804481847626562014-10-18T22:33:43.435-07:002014-10-18T22:33:43.435-07:00I hope that readers who aren't interested in t...I hope that readers who aren't interested in the darts question don't skip this post because of the title. The final paragraph is a minor masterpiece. If I remember correctly, it was Zach DeLuca who made the comment about broad-stroke traditionalism. That term summed up my approach to dressing.Anglophile Tradnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-31770080839800505972014-10-18T17:47:55.465-07:002014-10-18T17:47:55.465-07:00This comment has been removed by the author.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10655923909455261317noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-35045100954033982632014-10-17T13:43:13.033-07:002014-10-17T13:43:13.033-07:00Thank you for pointing out that dartless jackets c...Thank you for pointing out that dartless jackets can still have an easy fit and waist suppression. The side seams and pockets allow plenty of control, and the obsession with darts always seemed a bit dogmatic. <br /><br />I have two suits and several more in the making that have no darts, but a healthy amount of waist suppression. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com