An Affordable Wardrobe

Showdown: The Results

2012-02-15T21:34:00.000-08:00

The formal suit has been sold. I thank the many of you who showed such enthusiastic interest in it, and I am most gratified that so many of you had a real use for the thing. Part of what I do around here is social work, finding good, loving homes for the orphaned garments of a more formal time. In the end, it came to a showdown between a tap dancer and a classical musician (not joking). The musician won.

True, this may not be Fred Astaire and Artur Rubinstein we're talking about, but it's nice to know that this suit will in fact continue a useful, appropriate existence. Congratulations, Mr. C****. May it help you reach new heights of musical virtuosity...or at the very least make the other members of the orchestra jealous.

Brushing Off My Tails....

2012-02-13T20:33:00.000-08:00

Every so often, an item comes into my possession that is simple to precious to be put up for sale directly in the Shop. Oddly, the last time this happened was with an antique morning coat, and this time it is an equally beautiful antique set of evening tails, not far unlike the suit worn by our man Fred Astaire so often in the 1930s.

Honestly, I sometimes feel that I may actually live to see the demise of garments such as these, and that's a shame. In a world where "dressed up" to often connotes merely a tucked in shirt and a pair of socks, we could use a little more formality, just to make our most special occasions seem, you know, special, or something.

So here we have a vintage tail coat, possibly 1930s, though maybe not that old. It's rendered in hefty but soft black wool, with lapels faced in grosgrain silk, grosgrain covered button too match. 38 inch chest, with about a 32 waist and sleeves 26 inches from shoulder to cuff. The armholes are high and the lines tight and sharp, for an thin athletic fellow of about 5'10".

See what I mean about the lines being sharp and tight? Clearly, there will be no slouching or incorrect posture in a garment such as this. But then again, any man would stand up straighter when he looks this good.

Cloth covered button at the back, a hooked vent, waist seam and closed pleats running the length of each tail. The construction of this thing reminds me of very old military dress uniforms.

Note the curved seams running up the back from the waist to the shoulder.

Traditional six button front with wide peaked lapels and a slanted breast pocket. There is a loop to hold a flower stem behind the left lapel just below the button hole.

Four button cuffs with faux button holes...

and some serious formal darts to give the unmistakable shape of a proper tail coat. The detailing and workmanship are off the charts here.

Complete with matching trousers, 32 inch waist with a high 15 inch rise, 30 inch inseam with about an inch to let down, featuring a watch pocket on the right and forward pleats...

Button fly and a v-notch at the back of the waist band.

A silk ribbon matching the lapels runs down the out seams, and the legs are cut somewhat wide with a slight taper. Think of all those Apparel Arts illustrations you've seen.

From Roger Kent. Perfunctory research tells me that Roger Kent was a men's shop with three locations in New York, most notably on Madison Avenue near Brooks Brothers, J. Press and F.R. Tripler, a store in New Haven, and another in Philadelphia. You can guess who the clientele must have been. Oddly, this was unearthed in the same place as the fancy robe I recently found. You have to wonder if it was the same guy.

The condition is excellent, though of course a pressing would be in order. Other than one tiny hole, less than 1/16 inch in diameter near the outer pleat on the right leg, there are no discernible defects.I'm entertaining offers on this suit. Offers and/or questions may be directed to anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com. Please remember, a slim man of approximately 5'10", 38 chest, 32 waist will fit into this suit. Only the suit (jacket and trousers) are included, not the necessary dress shirt, white tie and white pique waistcoat, or for that matter, top hat.

Please, someone give this a good home and find some way to wear it. Things like this don't to die, and your gal will be thrilled with whatever place you can take her to that would merit such a suit.

After all, this could be you:

Thrift Shop Tyrolean

2012-02-11T22:23:00.000-08:00

You really do find the damnedest things in the chaos of the thrift shop sometimes...

...such as a Tyrolean cape coat, made of real loden wool, dark green on one side, reversible to red plaid on the other...

...complete with antler buttons...

...and big wide cape sleeves. It's a beautiful, rare and wonderful thing, but I fear it may be too much, even for me. I'd like to think I could make this work, but sometimes you just gotta be realistic. I'm not an old man from the Alps, or even David Niven for that matter.

If anybody needs me, I'll be in the mountains looking for Pinocchio. If I I'm not home by supper, send out a St. Bernard with a cask of brandy on his neck, I prefer Bas Armagnac, but Cognac will do as well.

A Matter of Convenience

2012-02-08T21:30:00.000-08:00

I'm an old fashioned guy, and I like old fashioned things. I've even gone so far as to carve out a corner of the intenet to indulge my yammerings on the matter. But for all that, I do live in the world of today, and I'm not so much of a fuddy duddy to deny it completely. That's the irony, kind of like using a laptop to connect with other people who like to prattle on about old stuff...like proper cotton shirts versus the new fangled and now ubiquitous non-iron variety.

While I generally eschew the abominable non-iron shirt, I do have this one which I must admit has a way of making it into the regular rotation at least once a week. True, its made in Malaysia, and true, its treated with some kind of weird chemicals that pander to a fast paced sense of convenience above all else that permeates every crack and crevice of American society these days, but its a nice looking stripe and it only cost $5.49. I could make the argument that the old term "original polo shirt" oughtn't be used given these modern extenuating circumstances, but I'm not so particularly hung up on minutia as some guys (see these comments, and these too. Sheesh! Do you guys enjoy clothes, or just needling others about them).

While I don't particularly care for the weird feeling finish of this shirt, I must admit that it fits very traditionally, with a perfectly rolled button down collar. After all, despite its modern cloth and overseas provenance, this is , after all, still a Brooks Brothers shirt. I reach for it when I'm in a hurry to change for work, when the kids have run me ragged and I just don't have ten minutes to iron. I gotta admit, having one of these things does come in handy for a dad with small kids sometimes.

I'll admit that I am enough of a fuddy duddy to starch and iron it anyway if I plan to wear it with a jacket and tie, but mostly I throw it under a Shetland crew neck sweater with a pair of khakis, cords, or flannels, when all I really need is a bit of collar sticking out to show the world I'm not a t-shirt kind of guy.

Bowing to convenience in an occasional pinch is fine. It is only when convenience becomes the sole factor in one's decisions that abject laziness begins to creep in.

Tread lightly in the non-iron world.

AAW x NSV

2012-02-07T20:48:00.000-08:00

An Affordable Wardrobe,

and Newton Street Vintage,

photo: the Suit Room

An Affordable Wardrobe and Newton Street Vintage will be collaborating on a booth at the Drill Hall Flea Market on Sunday, 26 February, 10am-4pm. So much tweed it'll make you wish old Ma Nature hadn't forgotten about Winter this year. Save the date.

Just Some Old Thing To Wear Around The House....

2012-02-04T10:05:00.000-08:00

In the past, I've made my position of precious house clothes quite clear. I've never been one for luxury pyjamas or precious embroidered velvet slippers, as I find that the time I spend at home in my house clothes involves as much cleaning and house work as it does sleeping. And then this falls into my lap...

...an honest to God dressing gown. Not a robe, a dressing gown, made of some of the softest light weight tweed I've ever touched. Found at a favorite thrift haunt for $6.99, among a rack of ladies coats of all things. Rules of thrifting: 1) look where you don't think things should be, because sometimes that's where the are. 2) Learn to spot good fabric. I saw the sleeve sticking out of a heap of junk and the fabric is what caught my eye.

The beautifully cut shawl collar had me thinking black tie immediately. Do I dare be so obnoxious as to invite people to my house for cocktails and host them in this get-up? Does such a garment even belong in a modest two bedroom with toys all over the place?

Finding a belt with something like this in a thrift shop is like a gift from above, truly rare. Its got a few tiny moth holes, but only a few, so who cares? Guess I have to do a complete 180 degree turn and order some custom made broadcloth pyjamas and a half dozen pair of those damn velvet slippers. The full rig will be just the thing for cooking pancakes, washing dishes and picking up after the kids.

p.s. new stuff in the Shop, including Brooks Brothers sweaters, Alden shoes, and some serious vintage Harris Tweed.

Hey, Daddy-Oh

2012-02-03T22:10:00.000-08:00

So, I was gonna write something about dressing gowns and black tie, and how to fake it if you're a cheap b*stard, but the I stumbled across this, quite by mistake...

...and it reminded me of the good old days.

A punk rock outlook and a yearning for black tie need not be mutually exclusive, daddy-oh.

The Abominable Plaid Dress Shirt, part II

2012-02-02T21:20:00.000-08:00

After some initial trepidation, I find that the Abominable Plaid Dress Shirt is fast become a favorite wardrobe curve ball. Like any curve ball, it works best if kept in reserve and used by surprise, but I find myself opting for it far more often than I expected.

Seen here with a grey flannel bow tie by Miss Ellie LaVeer, and a favorite big fat shawl collar cardigan, the look is relatively subdues for what it is. I like to think of it as the spirit of the over-the-top look of a Polo ad, turned down to a reasonable (and actually wearable) volume. Below, pleated grey flannels and cordovan wing tips.

It all lies in finding the right plaid and the right cut. This shirt is in Dress Gordon tartan, which features navy,gold, white and hunter green, a palette of colors that works easily with many classic wardrobe staples. This shirt is also a properly sized USA made Brooks Brothers, with a classic unlined rolling button down collar, a cut that evokes the old school, even if the combination doesn't.

The plaid dress shirt may be more than a bit difficult, but it need not be abominable.

Sometimes You Feel Like A (...), Sometimes You (...)

2012-01-30T20:34:00.000-08:00

Sometimes, you get dressed like you're going to play tennis with Rene Lacoste in 1925:

Brooks Brothers club collar shirt, made in USA of Italian fabric, $5.49

Vintage wool tennis sweater from Kennedy's of Boston, $6.99

Emblematic club tie, $0.99

Vintage jacket, half of a suit by the Andover Shop, half of $5.99 (price for the whole suit)

And sometimes, you slouch down in your favorite soft chair at 9:30 in the morning for a cup of coffee and some Captain Beefheart on vinyl while a nearly three year old girl you know gets into the weird music in a way and to a depth that only children can...

photo: Internet

Captain Beefheart and his Magic Band, "Clear Spot", recently purchased on vinyl at a flea market, $8.00

Not his weirdest work, but by no means "normal".

I, for one, see no reason why the enjoyment of two such divergent things need be mutually exclusive.

In the world of men's blogs, one constantly runs across dogmatic close mindedness from people concerned more with an arbitrary set of antiquated rules involving how a man should dress than they are with wearing clothes well simply because they enjoy it. It's like a microcosm of life. Voluntary self pigeon-holing leads only to bitterness and resentment, and causes one to waste a lot of time needling other people who couldn't care less about what are really inconsequential minutiae. By embracing all aspects of the person you are, even the ones that don't necessarily "match" with one another, you find a balance and real individuality that will never come with rote adherence to any given dogma, no matter which one.

Just sayin.

photo: Internet

p.s. new stuff in the Shop. Perfect get-ups for listening to some psychedelic freak jams...at least I think they are.

(A Belated) Robbie Burns Night

2012-01-27T22:08:00.000-08:00

Robert Burns, Scotland's favorite poet and bon vivant, was born on 25 January 1759,and has had his birthday celebrated with "Burns Suppers" the world over for over a century. Being an Italian American, I have little reason to know this, and even less to attend such an event. Still, this past 25 January I was honored to be a guest at a wonderful Burns Supper hosted by good friend Yankee Whisky Papa's own club.

So then, how do I come to find myself at such an event? Well...

You may remember that I have this outrageous head to toe tartan flannel get-up. Dear Yankee-Whisky insisted that I attend on the mere merit of this suit, and I happily obliged. Apparently, this suit is not fit to be seen by mortals, as it is nearly impossible to photograph in any way that communicates just how bold it is. And though I wondered at whether it might be a bit gauche for a non-Scotsman to appear on Burns night in both long trousers and Black Watch, the official tartan of the Scottish regiment of the British army, my fears were soon quelled by the actual Scots I know. Turns out nobody really cares, outside of the nerdy world of men's clothing blogs, that is.

Given that this was an evening affair, I tried to keep things elegant with a crisp white shirt, white square, and navy wool tie...

I've never been huge on French cuffs, but I have recently decided that it might be the jewelry that puts me off. Silk knots, in this case green and white, are the way to go.

A recently acquires well made, if no name, pair of shiny black closed throat brogues finishes the look...

...while a Chesterfield coat keeps me warm outside. If the pocket square wasn't obnoxious enough, than the matching cashmere Black Watch scarf certainly was. Yikes, its practically punk rock dress up. Forgive me.
In the foyer stood a collection of old putters and a silver bowl filled with golf balls. We all proceeded to "golf" in the Caledonian tradition inside the building. Start in the dining room by the fireplace, under the tables, out to the hall, into the elevator, up the elevator, down the hall, down a flight of stairs...you get the idea. They were serving plenty of single malt that night, but we managed not to do too much damage.

The serving of supper was announced by the bag pipes. A traditional haggis was served, and all the traditional poetry read. A newcomer to haggis, I found it gamey and "funky", even a bit stinky if you will. But being an old pro in the wine trade, I've developed quite a taste for the various "funks" of the old world. I cleaned my plate. The evening concluded with the singing of Auld Lang Syne (Burns' best know hit) accompanied by handbells. Wonderful.

Pictured left to right: James of the great 10engines, in full regalia, you humble author, my new hero R, yankee-whisky-papa, and fellow club member. Call this one "The Lads"...plus one Italian.

Bag pipes once again signalled an end to the festivities. Our faithful piper and new hero R, in black tie with a jacket in Lindsay tartan made on Savile Row in 1972, provide us with the shot of the evening.

Happy birthday, Mr. Burns.

Custom Suit Blitz

2012-01-26T09:44:00.000-08:00

Being the clothes horse that I am, I've managed to compile an indecent collection over the years. I've gathered everything from the most basic of basics to the downright outlandish. And yet, the one garment which continues to elude me is the perfect charcoal grey suit. I thought I'd have this situation remedied when I ordered one online last Fall, but that endeavour ended badly. Round two sees Imparali Custom Tailors of New York throwing their hat in the ring. They have graciously offered to make a suit for me, and so I visited them in blitzkrieg fashion Tuesday.

7:50 a.m. saw me dashing through South Station, wishing I was getting on a train instead of racing to catch the 8:00 bus, but for $26 round trip, you learn to put up with some minor discomfort.By 12:30, Tin Tin and I were prowling around Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart, killing time before my appointment later in the afternoon. A very British lunch of fish and chips with a pint of Old Speckled Hen (a real treat if you can find it on draft and nitrogenated) and we were off to the tailor.

608 5th avenue greets one with a stunning Art Deco interior.I'm already feeling better about this than my last attempt at custom.

An unassuming sign beside an unassuming door at the end of an unassuming hallway.

Inside, we're greeted by Matt Harpalani, the affable young fellow in charge. Matt comes to tailoring in the foot steps of his father, also a tailor. His full story can be read here. He knows his stuff, and approaches it in a conversational and friendly manner that puts the customer quickly at ease. No stuffiness here, and that's good. I like nice things, but I have no time for stuffy people.

Matt begins by showing me some completed goods awaiting pick up so I can see up close the level of quality we're dealing with. This double breasted glen check with open patch pockets was a particular knock-out...

...while this purple velvet number piped in gold shows that he'll go to any lengths to meet any request.

Swatch books with fabrics from mills in England and Italy are piled atop a large table. After much deliberation, I settled on a dark grey super 120s Italian worsted. As I waited for Matt to finish up with his previous customer, I notice some very encouraging things around this small room.

Bemeberg linings available in every imaginable color....

...a book of formal wear swatches from Holland and Sherry, which included tartans, velvet, and striped fabrics for morning dress....

...and on the dressing form, a beautifully executed 3/2 roll. I'm getting excited. Now for the measurements...

photo: the Trad

I get a full and thorough once over with the tape. Certain of the numbers, such as the one being taken here, may have been disturbingly large, but hopefully the resulting garment will de-emphasize that.

photo: the Trad

And I never knew how things like slope of the shoulder and arch of the back were accounted for, but now I do. With the help of wonderfully archaic devices like this. Right up my alley.

We discussed every detail, and my own personal style preferences. Fortunately, I managed to avoid the over blown silly detail trap that rubes like me tend to indulge with custom made things. The suit will be a three piece. The jacket will have a natural shoulder, 3/2 front, 3 inch lapels, no darts, but some shaping through the sides. The trousers will have buckle side tabs, brace buttons, no belt loops, and forward pleats. The vest is a standard five button single breasted. Can't wait.

Imparali is a full service operation, offering custom shirts and cashmere topcoats, and specializing in outfitting wedding parties.The suit I ordered in the fabric I chose would have cost around $900 or so. The clothes are made in a factory in China, but the factory has been owned by Matt's family since 1967. That's something right there. It will be ready in about five weeks. Of course we have to wait for the suit to arrive before we make the final call, but so far so good. Finished goods can be picked up at Imparali, or shipped to you. I'm planning a trip back to pick mine up. Alterations are free for life, so if tweaks are needed Matt will do them there. If I manage to get those disturbingly large measurements down a bit, he'll fix that too.

By midnight the same day, I was home in bed. Brutal, but hopefully worth it. Look for the conclusion sometime in late February or early March.

Worth Every Penny : Cedar Shoe Trees

2012-01-23T21:00:00.000-08:00

The funny thing about thrift shopping is that one often spends many times as much money on the maintenance of an item than the item itself. Given that things are not a clean slate when they are first acquired, it takes close attention to detail and knowledge of proper care to do this well. A suit may be had for $15, then require up to an additional $100 in alterations and dry cleaning. In the long run, still a bargain, and a ripping one at that, but taking the long view is imperative. Shoes tend to need even more attention. They need to be cleaned, and polished regularly. For real long view maintenance, cedar shoe trees are worth every penny.

photo: the internet

Many of my own shoe trees were also purchased at thrift shops, but they are worth buying new. They can be madly expensive, but they don't have to be. Best price I found online was $15.99 at Sierra Trading Post, plus $5.95 shipping. Not bad. But I recently discovered some fine ones not unlike those pictured above at Target for $9.99. At that price, I'd have bought a half dozen pair, but they only had one left. Best keep my eyes peeled next time I'm forced into such a place. Woodlore has a lot to choose from, in a variety of types, starting at $19.95. I might try them next.

Besides helping shoes keep their shape, the cedar helps keep them fresh by absorbing odors. Don't bother with the plastic kind. If you're going to wear good shoes, then they should be worth caring for. Trees in every pair and regular polish are a law writ in stone. As with all things here, penury is not an excuse. Just because I may have bought most of these shoes for $20 or less is no reason not to invest in their care. If anything, the opposite is true, and extra steps should be taken. After all, it's not so easy to replace a lucky find if it gets broken, is it?

Cedar shoe tress are worth every penny.

Dungarees: An Update

2012-01-20T20:51:00.000-08:00

In taking a look back to prepare for this post, I realize that it's been roughly a year since I did a dungarees update, and roughly two years since the purchase of said denim. Perhaps this should become a January tradition.

Back when I bought the jeans featured here, I had written a rant or two against the then (and still) prevalent hipster practice of buying gourmet denim, wearing it every day, with everything, and never washing it. The internet is rife with blogs and websites dedicated solely to nerdly discussions of how not to clean your pants, but I'm not having it. I like clean pants. So here's a brief rundown of what happens to them after two years of regular occasional wear, and regular washing:

photo: not mine, heisted from the internet.

In digging back two years into this blog, I'm actually embarrassed at the photos I saw fit to print here. This photo shows much more clearly what my Wrangler 13MWZ Original Cowboy Cut jeans looked like when I bought them. Rigid as wood, very dark in that distinctive grey tinted navy we call indigo. Straight legs, rivets and all, I wore them "raw" for a few weeks. There are few things as uncomfortable as new raw jeans, but there is a special (perceived) self satisfaction that comes with putting up with uncomfortably hard to wear pants. I've gotten over that since, but I still have the jeans.

One year in, they looked like this.I'll admit, at this point they had reached a kind of too bright blueberry hue, but I stuck with them. For one, they were beginning to be soft and comfortable in a way that only well worn jeans that belong to only you can. For another, I knew they'd eventually reach that excellent shade of light blue that can only be achieved with wearing and washing your own jeans. That, and I'm cheap, and new jeans are the last thing I care to worry about.

Today, two years and likely one hundred washed later, they're only getting better. The color is nearing what I consider to be the perfect fade. There's cool looking wear patterns on the knees. They're stiff when they're freshly cleaned, but given a minute or two, they conform to my shape and become perfectly comfortable in that way that only your own old jeans can. Unlike they're unwashed counterparts, they feel fresh and clean, instead of grimy and shiny with filth. Honestly, I've heard it so many times and read it so many times and even believed it a long time ago myself, but I just don't see the appeal in not washing your pants. Authenticity be damned, as I remember it, this what jeans always looked like when I was a kid, and any 19th century coal miner would have been glad at the chance to have some clean pants. Not washing your jeans in the interest of well curated heritage Americana is so much hipster revisionist thinking.

I will admit that I take care to wash them separately, turned inside out, in cold water, and I never dry them. But I do wash them, once a week or so as needed.

The older I get, I find that my take on how to wear jeans has changed over the years and begun to settle into a new norm.I read recently that part of being well dressed means being dressed for the occasion. I spend the earlier part of most days dropping off/picking up kids at school, grocery shopping, and hunting in filthy thrift shops, so I actually wear dungarees frequently. Gone are the days of pairing them with punk t-shirts and Adidas sneakers. Gone too are the days of wearing them with jacket and tie, though occasionally they do wind up combined with a tweed sports coat. These days a soft old oxford and a crew neck sweater do the trick. Bean boots, Bean mocs, penny loafers, pebble grain oxfords, and every now and then brown suede split toes are all good, adult choices for footwear. I even manage to take it up notch from time to time, go for the Continental look:

It's possible that a silk ascot will always be a pretentious and silly thing on an American, but worn just peeking out of a cotton crew neck, and worn with jeans, it may just be almost acceptable...almost.

A Donegal tweed cap ($1.99, thrift store), cashmere scarf in Black Watch tartan ($3.99, thrift store), brown leather wool lined gloves ($2.00, thrift store) and Barbour "Liddesdale" quilted jacket ($7.99, thrift store), and classic vintage Ray-Ban Wayfarers (generous gift) are all perfectly casual enough to wear with jeans, but finished and grown-up enough to make you feel like, you know, a grown up, or something.

I predict that washed and faded look will be coming back soon, along with pleated pants and properly fitted jackets. Not that I care much for fashion, but they've been feeding us tight/short/skinny/don't-wash-your-jeans for too long now. Time for an about face so they can force people to abandon everything and buy a bunch of new stuff.

Worn, old, comfortable, clean jeans are a real classic, and classics never die.

Stylish Films: Welt am Draht

2012-01-17T20:15:00.000-08:00

I'm by no means a movie buff, but I do enjoy them as much as the next guy. Not one for Hollywood, or the folks who populate it, I tend to prefer highly stylized movies that are as fun too look at as the story is good. Clearly, this proclivity leads me to numerous foreign films, and lots of old ones. I'm especially enamored of 1970s futuristic dystopia flicks, and I may just have found the penultimate one. A long time fan of A Clockwork Orange and Brasil, I have to say that World on a Wire (Welt am Draht) by prolific German director Rainer Werner Fassbinder takes the prize.

Originally aired in two parts on German television in 1973, this three hour masterpiece is a real trip. But I'm not going to discuss the plot here, that's what Wikipedia is for (see here). Instead, I'd rather discuss style and decor, and make once again my argument that we not discount the entire decade that was the 70s out of hand as an aesthetic wasteland.

Truth be told, the look of this movie is my decor ideal. The buildings have a brutalist vibe, all white concrete and glass cubes. The cars outside are big and luxurious, with lots of corners. Inside, the decor is that rare and difficult to reproduce early 70s post-modern eclectic blend of things like stark white rooms containing a mixture of glass and chrome furniture, ornate antiques, brightly colored plastics, oriental rugs, classical busts, abstract paintings....and maybe a German motorcycle helmet attached to wires suspended over a Le Corbusier lounge chair that allows one to connect with the simulated computer world. So much cooler than my Toshiba laptop. And let's not forget the big heavy analog technology all over the place. Sub-titles (and everything else) in Helvetica are de riguer. The people you see in magazines like Dwell think they get it, but it's just not the same.

See what I mean? In all the office scenes, this character is always shot in reflection in this weird silver globe, rubber tree plant behind here, electric typewriter before her.

And that's what the cafe looks like. One of those light fixtures is cool enough, but a couple dozen of them covering the entire ceiling? Unstoppable.

Clothing-wise, we get a lot of men in business suits. As one might expect, the ties and lapels are really wide, and we get some awful black shirt/white tie combinations, but generally speaking there's a real 1930s vibe running through it, as seen here in main character Fred Stiller's hat and chalk striped double breasted suit. At other points in the film, he wears a grey tweed suit with a half belt and pleated back. Not all bad, if a bit exaggerated. Remember, the 1970s were the last period when a man in an office dressed this way was not eccentric or unusual. The details may not be to our liking, but the but the overall concept of dressing well as a matter of course hadn't yet died.

Frequent scenes feature characters in evening wear. Not for trips to the opera or anything like that, just restaurants and dinner parties. Tom Ford, by the way, can thank our Herr Lowitsch for not only the strikingly masculine tailoring of his clothes, but also his haircut. And hipster girls all over Brooklyn don't even know what they owe to Mascha Rabben.

Even this guy, evil-security-director Edelkern, looks sharp, and surprisingly timely, in his navy three piece suit paired with awning striped shirt and solid grenadine tie.

Clearly, this dude is the bad guy, Herbert Siskins. If his haircut doesn't give him away, surely the brown shirt does. However, his office is one of the most knockout scenes in the whole movie. It's spacious and bright, filled with white furniture and lots of glass, punctuated by large plants and huge colorful paintings. At one point, he calls a press conference there. As they are speaking, the camera pans across a long buffet of "snacks" for the reporters, a long table laden with gourmet European food, including a number of pheasants, and an ocean of Champagne and fine Riesling (it is Germany, after all).

I love this movie. If you've got three hours to kill, watch it. Hulu Plus has a good version with subtitles. Looks like I've found a new (anti) hero in this Fassbinder cat.

Update: here's a link to an interesting short film on "the making of...", also worth a look.

p.s. Speaking of why stuff from the 70s may actually be, dare I say it, cool, I've finally gotten around to adding Barima to the blog-roll. That kid gets it for sure, go see.

p.p.s.new stuff in the Shop.

Divine Providence

2012-01-14T22:11:00.000-08:00

It takes dedication and an iron will to hunt down the good stuff in the junk like I do. With practice comes skill, and the more you do it, the better I you develop an eye for things. As my friend Bobby from Boston has been heard to say, after a while, the clothes have a way of finding you. Such was the case with my latest acquisition:

A hefty but soft tweed jacket in black/white/grey district check with a blue over-check, from the late great Rogers Peet Co. I spotted this number nearly a week ago while out on the hunt. The thrift shop wanted $19.99 for it. Apparently, someone there has gotten a little wise to the game...probably learned it fro AAW, dammit. Being the spoiled cheapskate I am, this was too rich for my blood, so I passed. Within an hour of leaving the place,I was
kicking myself for leaving it behind, but alas, you can't win 'em all.

Yesterday, I returned. I found a lot of other stuff. As was getting ready to leave, I spotted a corner of district check tweed poking out from a bundle of cheap acrylic ski hats. Lo and behold, it was the elusive jacket, only half price for having a white tag that day. The signals this time were too clear to ignore, so I snapped it up. Call it divine providence, the jacket found me. I left it, and it found me again, it was meant to be mine. Seen here with a vintage Brooks Brothers white oxford, iconic "rolling" unlined collar and all ( $5.49), an English regimental tie from the Andover Shop ($1.00), and a silk square heisted from my dad when I was in high school, it's a cinch for the kind of bracing cold we've been missing in these part these last few months.

Below, some heavy weight light grey flannels by Polo ($7.99) finally see their debut for the season. Finish with my new favorite cordovan longwings ($7.00) and some yellow socks ( perhaps a bit much, but that's what I do, no?)
A reader recently pointed out the lack of the old full body shot of late. So, with the addition of a tan cashmere coat, cashmere scarf in very muted Black Watch tartan, brown leather gloves and a Tyrolean hat, the overall effect was thus:

Not bad for approximately $100 total, outerwear included. Come to think of it, I passed on that coat at first, too. Lesson learned, twice: the time to buy a beautiful old thing is when you find a beautiful old thing.

p.s. the Tyrolean hat has undergone a bit of reshaping:

achieved at home with steam from a tea kettle. After having knocked some of the "Pinocchio" off of it, its become a Winter favorite.

Reading Material

2012-01-13T22:08:00.000-08:00

My apologies to any ladies present for this one. Truth be told, men tend to keep reading material in the, ahem, restroom. Abhorrent? Perhaps, but a "guy thing" nonetheless. Recently, this particular triumvirate has convened in my own home:

"Class" by Paul Fussell, 1983; "The Prince" by Niccolo Machiavelli, 16th century,

each less than a dollar at thrift shops.

"The Tao of Wu" by the RZA, a Christmas gift from Kid Brother

A now classic tome on the American class structure, and a humorous one at that, especially from an East Coast point of view....an ancient text from Rennaissance Italy, written by an aristocrat, on how to be one....and a philosophical work by a modern rap artist who draws on Christianity, Judaism, Islam, Bhuddism, comic books and kung fu movies with unbridled equanimity. I've read all three, and all three now have been filed for quick reference and cross checking. For good measure, they sit atop a Phaidon book of ugly British post cards, mainly pictures of motels, highways and rest stops, called simply "Bad Post Cards".

If that doesn't explain in condensed and distilled form the sort of thing that goes on around this blog, I don't know what will.

p.s.

the necktie selection at the Shop has been amply replenished. There are also a number of non-clothing items available, some suitable for children, others not. Go see.

The Abominable Plaid Dress Shirt

2012-01-11T21:34:00.000-08:00

Given the unsettling lack of any kind of snow throughout November, December, and now January, I guess we need to find something other than a big wild snow man abominable this year. How about a plaid "dress shirt", made all the more abominable by the un-buttoned button down collar...somebody, please smack some sense into me. I am fully prepared to use my Italian-ness, and the fact that G. Bruce Boyer does it all the time lately, as a full cop out.

Brooks Brothers USA made poplin shirt in "Dress Gordon" tartan: $8.99

Cricketeer tweed jacket, made in USA : $6.99

Mohair/wool blend knit tie, very wide, very '70s, by Rooster: $1.99

Silk pocket square: I've forgotten

Skirt pin as tie bar

Below: charcoal flannels with forward pleats, cordovan wingtips, and bottle green socks.

I may sometimes complain about not having the kind of life that requires a man to dress well, but really it can be a blessing in disguise. What kind of job that required a jacket and tie would allow me to get away with these kind of sartorial shenanigans? Dressing well by requirement is one thing. Dressing well through a combination of a sense of manhood, occasion, dash, respect and sheer enjoyment is far more fun. All the more so if the less creative and brave among us find it "abominable".

Worth Every Penny

2012-01-10T20:25:00.000-08:00

Always nice to follow a rare "cheap commodities" with a rare "worth every penny" post, even rarer in that this one is about food and wine, I subject woefully neglected here for too long.

Last Friday, I stumbled across some Chateau Beaumont Haut-Medoc 2000 at the shop, a pleasant surprise that had slipped my attention....probably because it retails for $37.99, and I tend to shop the sub-$15 selections on my budget. Wine geeks will remember that 2000 was a vintage of historical proportions in Bordeaux, with wines being good from the plonk to the first growths and everywhere between. I've written (i.e. geeked out about) this before, more than once. They all sold fast, and I haven't seen one in a long time. So when this turned up, I decided some minor splurging was in order.

A wine like this with some age on it wants some time to breathe, so I decanted it at lunch time for consumption with dinner. The "decanter" is actually a cheap commodity, a $5 glass carafe from the hardware store of all places, which I've had for years. The corkscrew is a waiter-style one, double hinged, had for $10 or less at any good bottle shop. A paper towel held on loosely with an elastic allows the wine to breathe while keeping stuff from getting in it, a trick of particular importance in the Summer, as fruit flies tend to be drunks.

The wine was everything I hoped it would be. Rusty in color with that good old French stink, the best bad smell in the world. I once heard it described as "blueberry cow sh*t" by a man far more expert than I, and I still use that term myself. Full bodied and dry, with all it's astringency rubbed off by age, leaving a texture that is nothing short of velvet. A heady, rare wine, the kind you drink slowly, because you'll be a little sad when it's all gone.

Good wine deserves good food, and vice verse. But I'm not one to detract from one or the other by overcomplicating things. A simple but high quality cut of steak, seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked in a cast iron skillet until rare and juicy, with baby spinach dressed in a Dijon mustard vinaigrette and roasted yam with onions.

2000 Bordeaux, or good wine in general, is worth every penny.

Cheap Commodities; or, and Speaking of Shoes

2012-01-07T22:23:00.000-08:00

A guy should have a shoehorn. Besides making it easier to get your shoes on, it also keeps your shoes from getting wrecked at the back. Short ones are fine, but I like the long ones that allow you to sit practically upright while using them.

I recently went to the cobbler retrieve a pair of shoes that he'd finished working on, and picked up this shoe horn, made in Japan of plastic, for $4.00. Or,

...you could shell out $105 for this one, carved of actual oxhorn, with a leather strap. A nicer, fancier, dare I say it, more "artisinal" thing? Sure, I suppose. Does that really make a difference here? Most assuredly not. From the description of the expensive one:

Shoehorns allow the foot to slide into a leather shoe without crushing the back of the shoe, and a longer horn lets a man sit upright during the process.

Yep. So does my four dollar plastic one.

Put the money toward the shoes themselves. The shoe horn is a cheap commodity.

Rules of Thrifting: Go With Your Gut

2012-01-05T22:01:00.000-08:00

Thrift shopping is addictive, but it's also a skill. As with so many things, skill is gained through vigilant practice, and eventually one develops a set of "gut feelings" about a place or time that can help guide them. Some thrift trips will require tedious hours spent rifling through the swill to turn up a lone gem, others will throw themselves at you. This morning, my gut told me to stop by a particular store for a quickie, and it paid off in spades, and not a moment too soon.

These are my old Florsheim Royal Imperial longwing brogues. I love these shoes. I've worn them a lot, polished them a lot, and even had them repaired, a lot. They were a regular favorite a year or so ago, before they were supplanted by a pair of tassel loafers that look like shoes but wear like slippers. Lately, I've been wearing them sparingly, as they are unfortunately on their last legs.

The leather has started to wear through...

...on both shoes. A hole in the sole or a worn heel are an easy repair, but a tear in the leather itself is the kiss of death, unless you happen to be a stylish British royal, which I most certainly am not.

I had all but resolved to go on out and purchase a (gasp!) new pair. I was ready to throw a heavy stack of dollars at Alden or Allen Edmonds, really, I was. But being the consummate cheapskate I am, I just couldn't part with the dough. The very idea seemed reprehensible. So I went to Ebay. I don't do Ebay, because I have no patience for bidding, but I figured I could find something in good shape with a reasonable "Buy it Now" price. I found a nice pair of Allen Edmonds "Mac Neil" wingtips in calf for $65, and I almost bit. At the last minute, I realized that it was 2 a.m., and I had been drinking rich oak-aged beer ( more on that later), and I was feeling more than a bit impulsive and perhaps I should wait. So I went to bed instead.

This morning, after dropping the boy at school, I ran some errands. After a trip to the supermarket, I had the feeling I should stop by a local thrift shop I pass on the way. The place is disorganized, chaotic and filthy, and I don't often do too well there. But I felt compelled to pop in, you know, just for a minute. The shoe racks are right by the front door, and within 30 seconds of my arrival, I spotted these:

A pair of Allen Edmonds "Mac Neil" longwings..in shell cordovan! I'm sure of it, no tiny creases, only soft, supple leather with the tell-tale "waves". Never one to push my luck, I decided to leave at once. The trunk was full of groceries, and Mrs. G was sending "where are you" text messages. Best to high tail it home. There was no price on the shoes, but I already knew that whatever they would charge would be a mere fraction of what they are worth. The kind lady at the counter looked them over, frowned a bit, and said with trepidation, as if expecting an argument "seven dollars?" I gladly agreed. She said "these are not so good." I said "I buy them here then pay my repair guy $50 for new heels." "That's expensive." she says. "Not as expensive as new shoes" I say. "No, I guess not." she says.

Later that same afternoon, after a cleaning and a shine, they're looking well and right at home with some argyle socks and flannel trousers.

I almost forgot...

While waiting in line to pay, I stood by a big plastic bin full of silky things. I poked through it and found two ties, and one more at the last minute dangling from a rack of ugly sweaters while she rung me up:

Block printed pink paisley by Liberty of London...

Italian made navy and tan stripes by Dunhill...

and a navy/red/white weave from H. Herzfeld of New York. $1.99 each.

I was in the store for a total of five minutes, maybe. I knew it was worth stopping there this morning.

Go with your gut.

p.s. the Shop is busting with new goods, including items from Cording's, Brooks Brothers, and USA made vintage L.L.Bean. Stop by.

The Plaid of Christmas Past

2012-01-02T21:21:00.000-08:00

While sorting through some photos looking for ones for what I thought might be a new post, I stumbled across a number of Tartan drenched vanity shots from Christmas week, and decided that timeliness, or lack of it, should be no deterrent in discussing them. I sure do like the old Scottish weave.

I think I took this photo for a post about understatement in holiday dress. However, upon review I can see that their is nothing understated about this. Big bad black watch plaid, splashed across a flannel jacket, which is actually half of a suit, wide 1970s lapels and all. True, a white square and solid navy blue wool tie may have had the chance to hold things in check, but the by now infamous custom shirt and collar pin have other things to say about it.

This ensemble, for a night on the job Christmas Eve is far more traditional, and perhaps wearable. A knitted merino wool vest in goldenrod and a lightly hued tartan Viyella tie actually are anchored this time with a navy flannel blazer and charcoal slacks.

Christmas Day, on the other hand, is no time to mess around. What else is a guy going to do with a pair of pants such as these? Don't half step with this stuff. Wear them like you mean it, behave as though such garments are completely normal, and get down on the floor to assist two children still clad in their pyjamas mid-afternoon in the construction of a new model train set. Because thats what holidays, and plaid pants, are for.

Happy New Year.

Reader Questions: Old Shoes

2011-12-30T20:48:00.000-08:00

I find nearly everything I own in a thrift store. While it's true that years of experience and practice have led me to a fair degree of success in this, the fact remains that some items are simply easier to come by than others. Take ties, for example. Once you stumble into a honey-hole, you tend to find that 99 cent neckwear is fairly abundant. They don't experience the wear and tear of other items, being purely decorative. Shoes, on the other hand, are another beast entirely.

photo: mirror.co.uk

Reader Don asks:
I have a question about buying shoes. I've read about reshaping and all of that, so I know there are some restoration options, but how worn is too worn? Any tips on buying used dress shoes? All I've seen around town so far are very creased and discolored.

Good quality shoes in good condition are perhaps the hardest thing of all for a man to find in a thrift shop. For obvious reasons, shoes are the clothing item exposed to the harshest wear and tear. We walk in them, on pavement. We scuff them against things. They get sweaty on the inside. We wear them on our feet for extended periods of time, often for periods lasting years. A favorite pair is a treasured item, even for people who don't realize or won't admit it, and so they are often the last things we want to part with. Men tend to wear their shoes until they fall to pieces.

Besides all this, shoes are submitted to undue abuse in the processing phase between donation and selling time. Think of it: a guy decides to donate some shoes, and they get tossed in a garbage bag along with a bunch of other stuff. The thrift shop gets them, and tosses them loose in an industrial hamper with a million other pairs. They may get sorted through a number of these bins, always tossed in with a heap of other shoes. Maybe they get tied together in pairs by the laces. Maybe not. Eventually, they go out for sale some place. A sordid affair.

This may be bleak news for the man cracked enough (like me) to dedicate obscene amounts of time and effort into acquiring a closet full of the rich man's cast offs, but there is a bright side. Good shoes are made to last a long time, and hence are worth repair, and the best shoes tend to be owned by those who take care of them, and thus have more years left in them if given a little repair.

Quality leather can take a beating, so all is not lost. As with anything, look for quality and don't settle for junk. This is especially true with shoes. Not only do crappy shoes look bad and have a cheesy feel to them, they're uncomfortable as well. Steer clear of stuff that was crap in the first place...it will have only gotten crappier.

So, how worn is to worn is the real question. The answer depends largely on whether you have access to a good cobbler. If the answer is yes, then it's a good bet that shoes that many might consider wrecked are your goldmine. Worn heels, holes in the sole, or soles breaking away from the shoe, as well as peeling linings or stitching that's come loose, are all things that your cobbler can put right. It won't be cheap, though, so you have to decide what you're willing to invest. I might buy a pair of quality shoes by Allen Edmonds or Alden for less than $10, then pay the cobbler up to $100 to repair them. For me, $110 is short change for fine shoes. $110 buys junk new at DSW. Catch my drift?

Some shoes are just over the hill. Avoid anything with holes or cracks in the leather itself. Creases in the leather are not always the kiss of death, as polish and mink oil, plus a good pair of cedar shoe trees, can usually fix this, but a hole is a deal breaker. The vast majority of shoes at thrift stores were worthless to begin with, and junk is junk. I won't buy it new, I certainly won't buy it old. The rule of persistence in thrift shopping is of exponential importance when it comes to shoes, but when it pays off, it tends to do so in spades. Be patient.

Having said all that, if there's one thing worth coughing up full retail for, besides the requisite socks and underwear, its good shoes. They may be expensive, but good ones will last a very long time, and your $15 suit and 99 cent tie will look infinitely better when complimented by proper shoes. In fact, I'm gearing up for a new pair or two myself, likely to be the topic of a new "Worth Every Penny" post.

So, in closing, George Harrison, on vinyl :

p.s. don't forget the sale in the Shop. 15% off all orders over $50 through midnight Saturday. Use discount code NEWYEAR2012 at checkout.

The Jams

2011-12-28T22:01:00.000-08:00

In the old days, I worked in a down and dirty crazy thrift shop. We had a record department. Not like we just sold records, we actually had a full blast record department, and I was in charge of it. This meant that besides organizing and pricing all the records, it was also my job to go out and find them. I loved it. Once, when I was out scouring the globe for slabs of vinyl, at the tender age of 24, anno Domini 2000 or so, I acquired a heap of r&b for the shop. Among it was the self titled first album by Funkadelic.

By this time in my life, I had heard of Parliament Funkadelic, or "P-Funk". I knew all about George Clinton. Dr. Dre and Snoop Dogg had made my generation aware of them. But 1969 era original Funkadelic was something else entirely. Sure, the outrageous outfits and showmanship of the later years would steal the show, what with Bootsy Collins and all. But this old stuff was raw, simple, drect and grimy. Funk in its purest, undistilled form. Funk driven by gospel harmony, Hammond organs, Fender and Gibson guitars, and Gretsch drums. Funk that still has the stink of Jazz on its boot heel. Funk with a meaning far deeper than simple goof ball, pimped out party jams. I was hooked the minute I got this record home, and 10 years later it remains a precious favorite. In all these years, its the only record I know of that can actually make you feel a little like you've been smoking weed, given of course that you know what that's like in the first place.

Godammit.

correction: Rogers drums, not Gretsch. Equally good, if not better.

p.s. A black man in a purple satin KKK robe with police style sunglasses. How are you gonna argue with that?

Sale!

2011-12-28T06:04:00.000-08:00

An Affordable Wardrobe Shop is having an end of year sale!

From now until midnight Saturday, 31 December, all orders over $50 are 15% off. Use discount code NEWYEAR2012 at checkout. All orders received by the end of the sale will ship Wednesday, 4 January via USPS priority mail.

Joy in the Air...

2011-12-24T22:21:00.000-08:00

Sure, I work retail and I may have groused more than a bit about Christmas meaning all work and no play for a guy like me, but at the last minute, humanity comes through. The kind owner of the Indian/Nepali restaurant across the street gave us dinner on the house, a delicious lamb tikka masala, and a co-worker/friend, who happens to be something of a nerdly collector, generously shared some selections from his private cellar...

...not least of which was this bottle of 1860 rye whiskey (more on that later, ethereal). Yes, it's real, and yes, it's delicious.

Enjoy the holiday, one and all. We'll be back sometime next week with new installments of your beloved superficial drivel.

The Jams

2011-12-23T21:22:00.000-08:00

"Jingle Bells" is not a Christmas song. It's a Winter Jam written in in a bar in Medford, Massachusetts, not far from wher I have lived all my life, in 1857. It's about drinking and driving and picking up girls, in an innocent, 19th century New England kind of way (not kidding). You know, a party song.

I bet these two drank that whole bowl of punch between them in an hour, then took the Cadillac out for a spin. Probably left the car in a ditch and wound up in a casino. Same idea.

Holiday Cheer

2011-12-20T20:55:00.000-08:00

Given the fact that Christmas is a mere few days off, it occurs to me that there has been a real lack of holiday cheer around here. The reasons for that are twofold. First, it's been unseasonably warm here in Massachusetts for months. Everyone around me seems to love this, but not I. This is a clothing blog, after all, and my best stuff is the Winter goods, including my extensive collection of wool Tartan trousers, none of which have gotten any use this season. Secondly, being in retail, this season means less fun and more work for me, and little else. Good thing I've got the kids to keep me cheery.

Anyway, I did actually manage to get invited to and attend one Christmas party last weekend, so the custom holiday shirt got at least one airing:

Worn with a navy emblematic tie, and a 6x2 double breasted navy blazer. The double breasted helps keep this relatively in check, with it's high closure point. See, maybe not as silly as you thought.

Silk knot cuff links. Shiny metal would have been way too much, in an outfit that is likely already way too much.

Charcoal flannels and black shoes. Bright red socks at a Christmas party are de rigeur. The perfect ensemble for drinking too much Scotch and stumbling home. Ho Ho Ho!

p.s. new items in the Shop. I've been a busy little elf this month.

Reader Questions

2011-12-16T22:27:00.000-08:00

Just because you got it cheap don't mean you ain't got to have it fitted. A good alterations tailor is your best friend.

Reader Toby asks:

My personal style is frumpier than it should be, and that fact that I am a natural born cheapskate seems to play a role in this situation. Your emphasis on "affordable" appeals to me, and I've always loved thrift stores. So I am right there with you when you report on the $7.53 you spent on a handmade vintage jacket!

My question is: when you spend less than $10 on an article of vintage clothing, do you then end up spending $50 getting it fixed up and tailored to fit properly? How does this factor into purchasing decisions?

An excellent question, to be sure.

Not so long ago, it was understood that "off the rack" clothing was something meant to be altered. It was good stuff, made to a standard. But no reputable shop would allow the customer to leave with his purchase on the spot. Men knew that when they bought a jacket or a suit, they would expect to pick it up properly fitted at least a week to ten days later.

These days we live in a culture of instant gratification. This has innumerable unfortunate side effects, none the least of which is men running around in badly fitted clothing.

A man should always have his clothes properly fitted. This applies as much if not more in the case of cheap old stuff, as we discuss it here.

When I find an old gem and try it on, I always have one eye on the alterations. I know what can't be altered: the shoulders. Any jacket that doesn't fit your shoulders is not worth buying at any price, as it will never be comfortable. I also know what can be altered.

Sleeves can always be altered, within reason. Shortening sleeves an inch or so is a fairly commonplace alteration at the local dry cleaners costing between $12-$15 many places. Lengthening sleeves is no more difficult an operation, but it is trickier. Old clothes can leave a line where an old hem was, so watch out for this. The same principle applies to trousers: shortening is easy, lengthening is tricky.

Side seams can always be taken in, but may show a mark is you let them out. As always, look for clothing of quality that has clearly been well cared for by it's previous owner.

As for money: If I find a beautiful garment for a buck or two, I will gladly spend up to $60 on alterations. The way I figure, $2 purchase + $40 alteration= really nice jacket that fits like a glove for $42. You could buy a crappy Chinese sweatshop jacket from the Gap for twice as much in size S M L in the mall. Need I say more?

Regardless of where and how you buy your clothes and what you spend on them, I do wholeheartedly recommend that any man find a good alterations tailor he can trust. Make a friend of him, because even though you may be the one with an eye for quality and a bargain, in the end he will be the one to make you look really good.

p.s. the Shop is bursting at the seams! See it.

A Fusion of Opposites

2011-12-12T20:48:00.000-08:00

I recently got caught up watching a lot of old episodes of Firing Line with William F. Buckley over at that gargantuan time-suck known as Youtube. Good stuff, even if you don't agree with Buckley, which I generally don't. In any case, this choice bit featuring Allen Ginsberg in 1968 has me thinking a lot about the mens fashion/blog climate of the last few years, specifically the fact that nearly everything we've collectively been prattling on about is encapusalted in distilled form in these two very opposite men:

On the one hand, William F. Buckley is the very picture of this beast we now refer to as Trad/WASP/Preppy style. Only in his case it's not a "style", because it was 1968 and he actually was a patrician conservative figure. Sack suit, button down oxford, narrow gingham check tie, double soled shoes. All of it crumpled, worn, and slouchy while being perfectly "correct".

On the other hand, Ginsberg, whom Buckley refers to in his introduction as "the hippie's hippie, the Bohemian prototype", presents us with the Well-Curated-Authentic-Heritage-Americana-Urban-Lumberjack-Hipster-Band-Guy prototype. Jeans, no doubt USA made Levi's or some such, probably "selvedge", suede dessert boots, shirt, tie and tweed jacket topped with huge beard and even the requisite heavy rimmed glasses.

What's funny is the fact that as we view the screen, Buckley is on the left and Ginsberg is on the right. (Get it?)

It's not so surprising that we haven't really managed to come up with anything new since 1968. Immutability is one of the hallmarks of most menswear. What is interesting is the fact that fashion has become a fusion of opposites, borrowing heavily from two distinct styles that meant very different things to very different people in their time.

In some way I suppose people are a bit like that these days too, more grey and less black and white. Clothing aside, watching this video I find that I actually like and agree with both men, though they don't like or agree with each other at all. That's the future for you I guess.

p.s. new stuff in the Shop today, more over the next few. I know it's a bit shameless when I end my posts with these little plugs, but business is business you know. Please browse and thank you for your custom.

13 Dec., 7:48 am, Correction: Not "dessert boots", rather "desert boots". Oops.

Progressing in Reverse : Straight Razor Shaving

2011-12-09T21:33:00.000-08:00

An Affordable Wardrobe would like to thank the good folks at Heritage Shaving for their support, and I am happy to announce our first product giveaway contest. Read on for a chance to win a free straight razor starter kit:

Back at the beginning of November, Heritage Shaving, a tiny company run by a nice kid looking to drum up some cash to defray the cost of grad school, signed on as our first advertiser. I received a straight razor starter kit and started using it, admittedly with a little trepidation at first. It takes no small amount of courage for a modern man to take a surgically sharp knife to his throat in the morning, but that's a hurdle worth conquering.

At first, it took me over a half an hour, moving at a snail's pace, to give myself a shave that was only so-so. The nostalgic fetishism was kind of cool, but the ritual had me enthralled. In case you haven't read this blog before, I am a dead sucker for time consuming antiquated rituals. And that's what this was then, an antiquated ritual. But it quickly became more.

It's funny how we sometimes find the good stuff by moving steadily backward. In high school, I shaved with triple bladed, lubricated, silly expensive something or others, and aerosol shaving foam. A splash of Old Spice to follow. Later, I switched from the aerosol to a brush and mug, but kept the high tech gizmo razor. A splash of Old Spice to follow. Later still, I began using my Grandfather's safety razor. Some bits of toilet paper and a splash of Old Spice to follow. After years of this, the straight razor, the method of choice for men until 60 years ago, comes into the picture. At first, it was a once or twice a week treat. As I gained confidence, I came to look forward to it. Now, I use it every day, unless I'm in a screaming hurry, in which case I opt for the old safety razor. As always, a splash of Old Spice to follow.

Shaving this way is often the only time in a given day when I slow down and take a few moments to concentrate on myself. It's therapeutic. Its contemplative. It reminds me that in our mad rush forward at breakneck speed, we humans as a race may not always be progressing. It reminds me that new isn't always better, and that sometimes we realize that we hit the pinnacle long ago and that every thing since may be a downhill ride...kinda like how stereo technology hit it's peak in the mid 1970s. Besides, its extremely masculine, and its kinda tough. That may be silly, its true. But for a guy who spends all day caring for two small kids, and all night geeking out about either wine or clothes, a small dose of masculinity is the least you can afford me.

So...you tell me in the comments why you think scraping your neck and cheeks with a knife is a better idea that dragging expensive plastic cartridges across your face that will at worst cut you and at best give you a mediocre shave. Keep it relatively brief....most thoughtful answer wins a shaving kit, pictured above, which includes a Dovo razor from Germany, leather strop, stainless steel mug, badger brush, shaving cream, oil, and knick stick. Contest open all weekend, winner chosen Sunday evening.

Update: Sunday, 11 December, 10:00a.m. EST. I'm truly overwhelmed by your excellent responses to this post. Thank you everyone who commented. I'm especially impressed with how many of you saw this topic as a springboard into things of vastly greater importance than merely cleaning up in the morning. You clearly understand how fraught with meaning these things can/should be. Commenting is now closed. We'll sift through all this and a winner will be chosen tonight, so stay posted.

And the Winner Is.....Bostonhud. Oddly enough, this was our very first entry. Many of you delved deep into the more esoteric meaning behind the modern day adoption of an archaic grooming method, which is exactly what we were aiming for. Topics such as connection with the past, contemplation, and a more thoughtful assessment of our modern day culture of speed and convenience above all else were frequently raised. But it was Bostonhud's haiku which managed to convey all of this in only three short lines:

Men seek old stories
Grandpa's hat, father's bow tie
give my son my shave

Congratulations, Bostonhud. Contact me through email at anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com with a mailing address and we'll get your prize out post haste.

If you're only just reading this, the contest is closed. But do read the comments. It's enlightening to see how many men there are out there, many of them young, who don't necessarily buy all that the worlds been selling lately.

Secrets of Thrifiting : Strategic Eavesdropping

2011-12-08T22:27:00.000-08:00

Just t'other day, I hit one of my favorite watering holes. I found a few things, and headed to the front desk to purchase them happily. As the kindly clerk was toting up my purchases, I heard the couple behind me explain to the couple behind them: "this place is o.k. But you gotta go to the one in H********. They've got the best stuff." My ears perked, and I turned to spy who was talking. A couple in their 60s, the wife wearing a knockout vintage knee length Barbour coat, not unlike this, only knee length, and perfectly weathered, so cool:

...with old jeans, L.L.Bean rubber mocs, and a turtle neck sweater. Immediately, it registers with me that not only do these people appear to be old pros at this game, but they also seem to share my aesthetic.Out in the car, I look up the new location straightaway, and head there at once. Within minutes, I am laden with more than I can carry.

Keep your eyes and ears peeled, and observe the other folks around you. They can offer clues to the next big score.

p.s. my good fortune is your good fortune. The Shop is busting with new stuff, more to be added over the weekend. Check it out.

The Holiday Shirt

2011-12-05T19:27:00.001-08:00

The results are in on my most recent foray into the world of so-called "online custom" tailoring, and this time they are relatively favorable. I have to say I'm mostly pleased with the execution of my idea for a dress shirt for holiday parties:

Bright red tartan with a spread collar and French cuffs. Unconventional, of course. But when any maker's size 15 1/2 x 33 shirt fits reasonably well, as it does me, there's no point in having something as mundane as a white shirt made. I plan on wearing this with an emblematic or simple striped tie, grey flannel trousers, and either navy blazer or tweed jacket for festive occasions. I'd say something like "Christmas parties", but having two kids and working night hours in retail, the holiday season rarely has anything to do with parties and celebrations for me (Scrooge).

When ordering the shirt, the first line of questioning involves height, weight and general body type. Following that is a more detailed set of measurements. In each case, a guess is entered for you, and I was surprised to note that in every case the guess was within a 1/2 inch of my entry. So far, so good.

Choosing fabric is always the hardest part with these things. Actually touching the fabric from which your garment will be produced beforehand is a key step in the actual custom process, sorely lacking in the online experience. It will always be a gamble. In this particular case I won, with a nice mid weight cotton poplin.

The shirt was delivered in just over two weeks, lickety split. That's kinda crazy, but true.

This thing fits me beautifully. The eight button front and extra long tails insure it won't come untucked. The collar is rigid and slightly high, as an English style spread should be. The French cuffs fit close without being restrictive. The buttons are pretty good, maybe not top notch, and the pattern matching in places, particularly the sleeve plackets, leaves a pinch to be desired. The button holes are stitched in white, where a color better matching the pattern such as red would have been preferred. Then again, had I paid for it the shirt would only have cost $54, cheapest I've seen yet for something like this, and cheaper by far than many ready made options. I guess that makes this a bargain, especially when one considers what Ralph will sell you for $165.

And you thought my shirt was way out of bounds. At least it's not pleated. Though I will freely admit that if there were any chance at all I'd be donning the black tie for any reason this month, I'd be lusting after this one, too. But I bet I'd have Tailor4Less make me one for $54 before I'd pay that kind of scratch. To be sure, an atrocious waste of money in either case, but a fella can dream, can't he?

Now all I need is a good party or two to attend. Anyone want to move their bash from Friday or Saturday to a Monday or Tuesday night when I'm not working late? (lousy retail Christmas season...grumble, grumble).

United Nations

2011-12-03T22:23:00.000-08:00

I write about men's clothes, and being from Boston, my own experience and personal style lies heavily in the classic American East Coast camp. While "Made in USA" have of late become nearly holy writ on a clothing label, I'm not one to marry myself to such a narrow field of vision. Last time I checked, the Europeans knew their way around the finer things too.

The general look of today's ensemble is in many ways rooted in the British countryside. Tweed jacket, broad glen checks, informal tie( the other perfect knit tie; silk with white dots) and a yellow vest, all brought down from the equestrian tradition. A tab collar on the shirt would have been great here, but a short pointed spread works pretty good, too.

The jacket hails from the quintessential American brand, Brooks Brothers. A recent piece, made of fine, soft wool, $7.49. Continental/Neapolitan details, such as soft shoulders, high gorge two button front and four button cuffs define this coat...

...as well they might, given its Italian provenance. Truthfully, I prefer my Brooks Brothers old, undarted and American, but a piece like this for practically nothing is too good to pass up.

The Brothers strike again with the tie, and once again we have the Italians to thank for it.

The yellow/buff vest is a very English convention when rendered in soft doeskin. This one, a vintage number likely from the early 1960s, is knitted of fine wool, maybe merino, and has a killer vintage pocket detail and tiny side vents.

Once again, the Italians are to blame. Full fashioned...good thing, I just hate it when my clothes are only partial fashioned.

Below, a favorite pair of vintage charcoal worsted slacks, well fitted yet narrow enough to remain in keeping with the overall continental vibe here, with chocolate brown suede USA made Allen Edmonds shoes, and silly skull and bones socks...just to drive you crazy.

A real Bavarian Alpine hat, adorned with a vintage hat pin from the Andover Shop, is the whipped cream on top.

And since my birthday is this weekend, my parents, as usual and despite my yearly protest, gave me a card full of money with the instructions that it not be spent on anything responsible. In the past I've used this money to pay a bill, or something. This year, I decided instead to do it right. A lunch of sushi and a Sapporo is in keeping with the days theme of internationalism...

...as was the bag of drink that came hone with me tonight. Chateau Tariquet 15 year old Bas Armagnac, from France, was a gift from the job ( working in a wine shop has its advantages). Bunnahabhain 12 year old single Islay malt Scotch and Kopke Colheita 1997 Port rounded out my own use of the birthday cash. Consider my house "Winterized" as it were. A man's got to keep warm, you know.

shop news: the Shop has more items than ever, including most recently some choice coats and other outerwear. You've got to keep warm too, you know.

The Perfect Casual Tie

2011-11-30T12:19:00.000-08:00

A tie, despite what the world in general may think today, is not always a dressy thing. A knit tie and button down collar is a great way to look put together and casual at the same time. I recently acquired what I think may be perfect casual knit tie:

Navy blue, the stripes end before the knot, a nice touch. While my shirt is pressed, I opted for no starch in the interest of softness. A tweed jacket, khakis and tassel loafers finish the job.

Vintage 1960s wool and mohair "Heathernit" by Rooster. Rooster was the maker of choice for square end knit ties in their day, a great brand to look for at the thrift shops. $1.99.
p.s. the Shop is brimming with new goods, including shoes, tweed jackets, flannel trousers, leather, suede, and a ton of ties. Check out the new "Most recent items" feature in the side bar for a quick look.

The Jams

2011-11-28T21:35:00.000-08:00

So many people have this misconception that jazz music is some kind of exclusive club reserved only for snobs and highfalutin intellectuals. Nothing could be further from the truth. Jazz can be, and often is, a downright freak out (if a minimally controlled and structured one).

People who over think things like jazz and other forms of art are like people who always want to know "what are you so dressed up for?", or worse "who died?" every time they see a man in a tie: they just don't get it.

Patience is a Virtue

2011-11-27T21:44:00.000-08:00

Three years ago, in the earlier days of this blog, I felt compelled to post every day. When I had nothing to write about, I'd put up a silly haiku (remember those?) like this.

Just last week I found these:

$4.99 at an undisclosed thrift shop. No brand name, but quality construction, likely from Berle or Hertling or some such respectable manufacturer who does work for all the fine men's shops we swoon over.

Patience is a virtue. Please have some patience when I finally don these silly things...and you know that I will.

p.s. new stuff in the Shop.

Letter to the Editor (Hope Yet for the Future)

2011-11-25T21:26:00.000-08:00

Writing this blog is largely a labor of love, but can be a richly rewarding experience. This is especially true when I find that I have in some way managed to have a positive influence on a young person. Cal it my fatherly instinct talking, but few things are as meaningful as teaching someone something they found to be important. Reader Brandon, a 21 year old college student in the South, recently wrote me a downright humbling email. It is with his permission that I present an excerpted version of it here. We curmudgeons do like to grouse about the current state of things, but there may be hope for the future yet. For that I am thankful.

Brandon writes:

This past summer, I had a sartorial awakening. It started when I got a summer job that required me to "dress up." I was required to wear slacks, a button down shirt, and a tie every weekday this summer…. At first I dreaded it due to the extreme heat here in Louisiana, but after the first couple of weeks, I grew to love it. People were always complimenting me and I always got pleasant looks from attractive ladies when I ran errands after work. On top of that, I just felt more professional and I took more pride in everything I did. I liked the intoxicating effect it had on me.

From middle school through the first couple of years of college, I was into the punk/ska scene and skateboarded. I was a regular at the skate park and the local punk venue. Thus, my usual attire consisted of old skate or band shirts, Dickie's pants, tight jeans with holes and patches, skate shoes, and the other usual adornments of such a scene. I loved it.

During college, my mindset had changed. I had grown up and matured past my punk ideals. Though I had changed on the inside, my clothing failed to reflect that. So I decided that I no longer wanted to be looked at as a childish, rebellious punk, but rather as a professional young adult. I decided that when I returned to college for my senior year, I would dress like a stylish adult. I would not wear another tshirt, but rather always wear button up shirts or polos to class and social functions.

I quickly realized that I didn't have enough money to expand my wardrobe much. College doesn't leave much extra money for you. I knew that the best thing to do would be to save up for quality pieces rather than getting the disposable junk I had worn so much of my life. I started saving but was torn when I couldn't buy the things I wanted to wear. Then, one fateful day about a month ago, I came across your blog. I was overjoyed at the various clothing items you bought for so little at thrift shops… Using the knowledge I gained from your blog, I have already started shopping at thrift shops and have had some success. I don't usually see the labels you tend to see (unfortunately, there aren't many fine clothing shops where I live and thus, not much fine discarded clothing), but I have learned to look for other things such as the feel of the material, the quality of the construction, where it was made, and pattern matching. Honestly, pattern matching is something I had never even thought of before, but once you had pointed it out to me, it is something I could never overlook again.

Just so you know, my progress so far is amazing. Apparently, it's pretty easy to impress people on a college campus. I am always turning heads. And though I figure probably half of those are to poke fun at the kid wearing a collared shirt and penny loafers, the other half more than make up for it. Besides, if there is one thing that the punk culture taught me, it's to do what you want. It's actually kind of funny that dressing well is almost an act of rebellion today. Anyway, all of my friends love my new sartorial change and whole-heartedly support it. It has even got some of them considering dressing better… I started out wearing a button down shirt with chinos and nicer shoes. I then moved on to adding a tie and cardigan in the cooler weather. And now, I am proud to say that I am planning to buy my first bow tie. A year ago, I would have never thought such a thing was possible.

Though my self-confidence is certainly not based upon the clothes I wear, I feel more confident with how I present myself now. I think that is one thing that people miss when they dress so slovenly all of the time. As silly as it sounds, I feel more comfortable with speaking up in class and sharing my ideas. Even if I am wrong, at least I look damn good being wrong. I have never been one to be quiet or shy so that isn't really the difference; it just seems like people listen more attentively and take me more seriously now that I'm the guy in the tie and not the guy in the band shirt.

Thank you Brandon. For someone barely out of his teen years, you have stricken an early and decisive blow against the dread Eternal Teenager Syndrome.

First of the Season (Old Favorites)

2011-11-23T22:00:00.000-08:00

I love a big fat pair of light grey flannel pants, and I revel in the first days cold enough to warrant them:

I am constantly compelled to pair these burly pants with bright yellow socks (see here, here, and here, here too...and those are just the instances comitted to the internet). Big fat wool to keep us warm, bright yellow to remind us that the sun doesn't stop shining in the cold, even if it does set much sooner.

Happy Autmn, everybody...finally!

24 November: Correction, "Autumn".

A Wedding In the North Country

2011-11-21T19:46:00.000-08:00

My absence here in the last few days can be explained by my presence over the weekend at yet another old friends wedding on the coast of Maine. Ever since Mrs. G. and I opened the old marriage and children door eight years back it seems all the old boys are stepping through, one by one. Coastal Maine in November may seem like an unusual choice for an outdoor ceremony, but the weather was beautiful, if a little brisk, and the newlyweds couldn't have been happier. Of course, my only photos were of things superficial. I leave the important stuff to the paid photographer.

I, for one, embraced the chill, as it gave me a chance to indulge in some flannel and tweed. Stripes on stripes may not be for everyone, but it can be done. In this case the white club collar (Brooks Brothers, $5.49), white square, and solid navy wool tie ($1.00, Zareh of Boston) keep it all in check. Dressy, without being too stiff.

Grey socks and shiny black vintage 1960s Italian made shoes ($7.99) finish the job. Pay no attention to the cheesy hotel carpet.

A Chesterfield coat (Andover Shop, $9.99) and a black fedora ($9.99, not shown, see here) ward off the chill.
But that's just me, let's talk for a minute about a friend of mine:

Our man Mr. H. is a skinny fellow. He owns this suit, in soft grey flannel. Three pieces, hacking pockets, ticket pocket, flap breast pocket, and the most perfect 3/2 roll I've ever seen. Jealousy abounds here, since I'm the one who found this sartorial masterpiece a few years back at Keezer's for a scant $75. But alas, I'm not skinny, and Mr.H. is, so I put him wise to it. Score one for the good guys, I guess.

Made by the remarkable Rizzo tailor shop of Harvard Square in 1979. A real knockout punch.

When a guy shares a hotel room with other guys in "the band" ( wife and kids at home for the weekend), this is the sort of thing happens. Good times.

In case you're wondering, that's what an R&B rhythm section looks like. A 1964 Slingerland drum kit and an Ampeg Portaflex tube amp. Guaranteed to keep the folks dancing. Thankfully, I'm pretty sure our playing lived up to the equipment we use...at least I hope so.

A truly beautiful wedding cake, decorated with understated taste in simple fresh flowers was home made by the groom's sister-in-law, also a good friend. Three separate layers, but I had a piece from the bottom, chocolate with a perfectly balanced whiff of hot chili peppers. Another knockout punch.

Topped by a vintage figurine which originally adorned the groom's grandparent's cake in 1950. Both still living and both in attendance. It must be something to see your wedding figurine on your grandson's wedding cake. Yet again, knockout punch.

If every wedding were this much fun, I'd hope for one every other weekend. Congratulations and best wishes for a bright future, to the new Mr. and Mrs. G******.

Read The Right Label ; Read The Label Right

2011-11-16T21:40:00.000-08:00

Brand names and labels are such a tricky beast, especialy when it comes to second hand shopping. Some are a guarantee of quality, others a guarantee of brand marketing. Most fall somewhere between the two. A label can be a household name and represent nothing but crap, or a label can be something you've never heard of and represent real quality.Sometimes a label can be a real surprise, if you learn to look at it after you look over the garment and judge it on its own merit. For example:

Here's a really nice tweed jacket. It has soft shoulders, high cut notch lapels and a two button darted front with just the right amount of waist supression. A good combination of English and traditional American detailing makes this piece both comfortable and sharp. And check that check: pattern matching from body to sleeve is pretty tight.

A perfect shade of gray tinted tan, with a large but faint windowpane plaid in brown and rust. ..

...with real braided leather buttons...

...and rendered in Scottish woven camel hair cloth, soft and luxurious to the touch.

Read the Right Label: Maybe you're not from the Boston area, or if you are maybe you're to young to remember, or don't remember, Kaps mens clothing stores. They were the real thing, since 1885. In the old days, when I worked at Simon's, Kaps stores, and the Kapelson family who owned them, were referred to with the due respect and mild jealousy befitting a worthy rival. Good stuff, always priced fairly but at it's worth, which was never cheap. Kaps was sort of a "poor man's Andover Shop", if such a phrase could possibly make even a shred of sense.

So far, nothing should be surprising about this jacket. Its well made, it comes from a sadly long gone local Massachusetts mens shop, and it's styled just how I like it. But there is a surpirse;

Read the Label Right: Chaps is like some kind of fourth rate label from Ralph Lauren for the malls and off price stores, right? Crappy junk meant only to create revenue through brand name licensing, right? I thought Kohl's owend it, right?

Maybe so, but not always, not like this. In the pre-over-seas-labor days, much of Ralph's stuff was high quality union made goods from the USA, and the Chaps brand was no exception. In the days before brand names were just a commodity to license and sell, Chaps was turning out the goods. I may not specifically remember Chaps as a brand in such a light, but I do remember Kaps as a store in such a light, and I know they never sold junk. Buying this jacket used in not so much wearing yet aniother piece of Ralph's clothes as it is hiniring the Kapelsons.

Reading this blog, you may think that I just trip over $1000 suits for a buck every time I walk out the door, but believe me, it takes a lot of patience and study to pull this off.

p.s. the above jacket, along with many other new items, is up in the Shop. A shameless plug, perhaps, but a plug nonetheless.

Country Is Where You Find It, Part II

2011-11-14T19:31:00.000-08:00

Mrs. G and I had the all too rare chance to hit the honey spots together today. She generally couldn't care less about the unfathomable minutia of menswear, but she has a dead eye for the good stuff in spite of this. She saved me the trouble of rifling through the outerwear today by scavenging this prime piece:

Forgive the dreadful and misleading yellow incandescent lighting of these photos. I've learned to take my photos early in the day in natural light, but I couldn't wait until tomorrow to prattle on about this one. A vintage 1960s mid-thigh length raglan sleeved balmacaan coat in a gorgeous, and very British, tweed.

Olive green/brown/white large district check with rust/navy overcheck. Beautifully woven and soft as anything...

Incredibly precise pattern matching. You can hardly even see the pockets...

...or the sleeve tabs.

An old, and highly sought after, piece from the now sadly bygone Invertere. 20% cotton in the fabric, must explain the super softness.

For the sadly bygone Rogers Peet Company. Rogers Peet had stunning clothes of a higher level of quality than many of the more commonly pined for traditional American stores, not unlike the holy church of Andover Shop. I'm always surprised they aren't mentioned more often in the nerdly world of online menswear fetishism.

$7.99

Country is Where You Find It

2011-11-12T22:18:00.000-08:00

I love dressing for the Fall, and I for one am glad to have a break in our unseasonably warm weather so I can enjoy the textures, fabrics and colors of the season without sweating. Perhaps my favortie thing about Fall dress is the influence of "country", as in British countryside, not Buck Owens (though I dig that too). And while it's true I live in "town" and usually walk on pavement, I indulge heavily in country treatments. True, the particularly nit-picky and pretentious among you will decry the impropriety of this. But in a time when grown men dress like toddlers, I hardly think it wise to make such minute criticisms.

This tan corduroy vest ($3.99, no brand, likely orpahned from a 3 piece suit) has been waiting in the wings since its acquisition in mid Summer. Bill wore it to TSFMIV. I wore it today. It plays well with a wool challis tie, rough blue oxford, and favorite tweed jacket (with throat latch for good measure).

I'll be on the lookout for more vests. I love to wear them, especially in rich textured fabrics like this. Lately, I find myself more and more attracted to forward pleated pants, and I find this to be especially true wiht a vest. The extra fold just ties it all togethr in my opinion, and adds another light nod (along with the printed wool challis) to the inherent British-ness of what's going on here.

My old favorite Florsheim wing tip brogues ($19.99) have been supplanted lately by current favorite tassel loafers, but they were a snap today. Perforated shoes have their origins in the country, while tassel loafers derive from fishing, so the choice was made for me. Cuffed hems, another country convention, are de riguer.

All of this clothing comes down to us from the tradition of carrying a rifle in England to shoot at birds. I will almost certainly never shoot a rifle, at birds or anything else, and certainly not in England. I will likely never spend the weekend in any place known as a "manor". I prefer coffee to tea, even in the afternoon, like a savage. It's no matter. Besides being tied to these activities, these sartorial details are also tied to the weather and time of year, which is now. If it's sunny but brisk and the leaves are golden and falling, embrace the details of Fall.

Country is where you find it.

Reader Questions : On Ageing Gracefully

2011-11-11T21:37:00.000-08:00

I may be blowing wind here, but I like to think that my little corner of the internet fills a gap. I began this blog years ago at the suggestion of some good friends who were pleased with the blossoming menswear style blog boom, but disappointed that nothing at the time addressed stylish men of meager means. In time, I've come to realize through emails and meeting people that I also tend to appeal to younger men in need of basic and unpretentious help (yikes, that was probably pretentious) as well as older men looking to keep things fresh without dressing like kids.

Reader Mark writes:

You said in your post "I'm not 22 years old and rail thin". That brings up a question:

What are good looks for heavier guys in their late 40s-early 50s? I don't want to appear to "try" to be dressing too young, yet I'm not really antique in age either!

A good question, to be sure. Hope I'm up to the task. What follows may not be so much direct advice on "looks" as it is on knowing your history, knowing whats going on, knowing what suits you, keeping it classic and simple, and combining all that...I hope.

As our example of how to look good, age appropriate, and young at heart all at once, we'll use the extreme example of style icon Fred Astaire. Plenty has been written about this man's level of style in his prime in the '30s, '40s and '50s, but very little mentions how well he carried himself into old age. Finding good pictures of Astaire in his youth is easy, but finding photos of the man in later life was surprisingly difficult. I suppose that speaks to the good old American youth obsession (the opposition to which this blog was founded, see profile).

In the photo above, a 75 year old Astaire gives his relatively staid jacket and tie ensemble just the right pinch of insouciance in his choice of aviator sunglasses, a favorite of youth today. The lesson here is opt for items which will always be classic and also "cool", in this case the glasses. Military men wear them, bikers wear them, rock stars wear them, hipsters wear them, even a confident 75 year old wears them. In each case they are "cool". In the old guys case, they are a sign that he is cool, and has been for some time. And yet, they don't diminish the classic-ness of his overall look, and they are anything but inappropriate.

This photo, like the one above, is a still from 1974s The Towering Inferno. Sure, it's dated. The tie is huge, the lapels are too. But that's the point. Being older doesn't necessarily mean you have to avoid trends like the plague, you just have to play them carefully. Astaire's tux is very 1974, yet because it is also relatively classic, he manages to be of the moment without looking like he's dressing like a kid. Despite the wideness of the elements, there are no ruffles on the shirt front, not frilly cuffs, no extra velvet, and no silly colors. Similarly today an older man may opt to lean towards the currently trendy leaner cuts while keeping his fabrics and patterns classic.

In this bad photo from the bad 1981 movie Ghost Story, an 82 year old Astaire wears his coat collar flipped youthfully up with a schoolboy scarf knotted in a particularly youthful way. Growing older doesn't mean you need to turn into a stiff, or even a dork. It just means that all the things you learned and saw, all the goofy stuff and good stuff you wore, all your sartorial mistakes and triumphs should begin to cook down to a refined essence that is uniquely yours and exists outside the realm of age and time. Am I getting too philosophical here? Certainly.

The point I guess is to stick with classic pieces in classic cuts and always insist on quality. At the same time, keep an eye on trends and choose selectively those aspects which will keep you looking fresh without looking like a mid-life crisis. And never wear anything that doesn't fit well. Young skinny 22 year olds can wear all the short pants and too tight jackets they want. They'll still look foolish, but we'll collectively chalk that up to youth and gullibility and hope they grow out of it. Older (and heavier) men do not enjoy such leniency.

Of course, it helps to have been this cool in your youth:

In writing this little blip, I realize that in this one short question we have a loaded sartorial topic on our hands, one that deserves frequent revisiting. I've only just poked at it with a stick. So lets have this be a discussion. I'd like to see this topic grow alongside a discussion of learning the basics for younger men. As much as I enjoy handing down the law from high on my soap box, I enjoy learning from others as well.

Thank you Mark for opening this can of worms. I hope we catch some big fish.

Another Go 'Round

2011-11-10T21:12:00.000-08:00

These "online custom" companies sure do seem to want my opinion on the matter these days. Recently, Tailor4Less offered me a trial shirt. I ordered it last night.

In a cotton plaid they call "Texas". In perfect keeping with my rube tendancies in the world of "custom" shirts, I ordered this otherwise innocuous plaid with a high spread collar and Fench cuffs. With a simple tie, silk knot cuff links, light grey flannels and a blue blazer, this could be my Christmas party go-to. That is, if it comes off well.

I've had both good and bad experiences with online tailoring. Let's see how these guys stack up. They promise delivery in two weeks, so results should be in soon.

Dangerously Close to the Edge

2011-11-09T21:13:00.000-08:00

It's no secret I like to push the edges of what is correct and appropriate in the broader realm of "classic" menswear. That's because I enjoy clothing, I have fun wearing it, and I'm not actually ever required to dress better than jeans and a t-shirt. I've been known to don an outfit that many find to be far too much, and frequently at that. I admit this freely. Yet sometimes, I come to the proverbial edge of the sartorial cliff and actually manage to stop myself from jumping. To wit:

Rugby has a "make your own cardigan" page on their website, and this is the number I nearly bit on in the last few days. Rugby is a brand I generally steer clear of, not so much because of any outright disdain, though I'll admit to mild disdain. No, it's more because I'm not 22 years old and rail thin, and I take myself a little more seriously than proper carriage of the brand would require. And Lord knows, few things are as unforgivably affected as Ye Olde Skull & Bones these days. Still, the idea of this sweater still appeals to me, forgive me. I see it with dark jeans, oxford shirt and brown pebble grain shoes. Or bright colored cords, bow tie and toggle coat, with a tweed cap. But, alas, I'm not 22, and this may in fact be too "young" for me.

If only it were wool instead of cotton...if only it had wooden buttons...if only it didn't have leather elbow patches....if only it weren't Made in Sweatshop...if only it weren't $148...if only I didn't know better...

See? I am capable of the occasional bout of self control after all...until the thing goes on sale, probably.

Glen Check Ties

2011-11-08T20:38:00.000-08:00

A nice alternative for Autumn, in silk, wool, or a blend. Don't forget the glen check tie.

This one in tan,burgundy and hunter green silk is a US made number by Polo, ($1.00). Acquired years ago, I don't wear it enough. Quiet enough to be dressy, but rich enough to knock the office vibe off of this old charcoal striped suit. Plays well with a cashmere coat for a trip to an off Broadway theatre.

p.s. please forgive the gratuitous linking to my own stuff. Shameful, I know. But I'm experiencing camera difficulty and I already had this picture saved.

p.p.s. new items in the Shop, including suits, coats, and lots of shoes. Stop by and browse.

Pontification

2011-11-07T07:11:00.000-08:00

Last Friday, I was a participant in a discussion on the meanings, past and present, of so called "preppy fashion" following a performance of A.R. Gurney's play Children. I can be seen below pontificating on the matter, speaking with my hands as any self respecting Italian would.

photo credit: a friend in the audience

I'd like to thank the TACT theatre group for inviting me to be a part of this. I had a great time, and met some wonderful people. As for the play, I say two thumbs up. A single scene on the terrace of a Cape Cod island beach house sets the tone for this sad yet darkly humorous tale of the unravelling of an old WASP family in the early 1970s. The cast of four played it to the hilt, making us feel both contempt and compassion for each of them, and in the end, everything works out for the best, but not in the way one might expect. Go see it if you can.

In other pontifications:

Sadly, the comments in my last post became a soapbox for racist vitriol by a number of anonymous commenters. I don't intend to ignore this. As much as I'd like to keep this clothing blog from becoming a political showdown, some things can't be ignored. Unfortunately, I will be forced to rethink the openness of my comments policy. This is not some Massachusetts Liberal Political Correctness game. I simply will not tolerate this kind of behavior on my blog any more than I would in my own house.

How To Wear a Hat

2011-11-03T19:37:00.000-07:00

Like you mean it...

photo credit: not sure, but I heisted it from "Where Is The Cool"

The kid in the middle gets a pass for wearing a double breasted suit. Otherwise, a "rakish tilt" is always a nice touch, and these kids have been taught well. Imagine how difficult it would be to find five grown men you know and line them up for a photo and have it look this killer. And that's just the word for it, killer. These kids are strong and confident, and I can tell not just by what they're wearing but how they're wearing it.

p.s. I'm off to New York tomorrow. More shallow drivel Sunday or Monday. Your humble "pedant" needs a few days off to "get over" himself. (see comments to the last post...the one about socks with ducks on them)

Cheap Commodities

2011-11-02T21:17:00.000-07:00

Life sometimes lands you in such undesirable places as Target. The place may be a monument to all the reasons why the rest of the world feels the way they do about Americans, but they do have some pretty good socks now and then.

This pair features a duck in flight and a purple toe. Packaged with a second pair in black and grey mini herringbone weave, $5.00. Not bad. Should be all the rage between a pair of dark denim jeans and L.L.Bean rubber mocs (used to call those "duck shoes" in the old days).

Gettin' Bloody in the Morning

2011-10-31T20:06:00.000-07:00

Given the fact that it is Halloween, I thought something a bit harsh with the potential for some gore might be in order. Recently, I've been shaving with this rig:

Years ago, I started using brush and soap from a mug instead of the modern aerosol shaving cream I'd been using. Truthfully, I did this because it was cool and old fashioned, but the benefits to my skin quickly became evident and I soon preferred it because it was simply better.

A few years on, I switched from a disposable cartridge razor to an old fashioned safety razor. I cut myself a bunch in the beginning, but once I developed a "hand" for this, I preferred it because it was simple better. Besides being, contrary to popular belief, easier on the skin and yielding a smoother, closer shave, the act of shaving itself became a cathartic ten minute ritual, a moment of time each morning to slow down and focus on oneself, before a day of tending to the needs of others.

This past week, I started using a straight razor. The good folks at Heritage Shaving sent me one of their starter kits to try, which included a German made blade, stainless steel mug, badger brush, leather strop and a tube of Dr. Bronner's shave soap. It's a trip, and more than a little scary first time out. But if you can make it out of the bathroom alive that first time, it's a thing worth learning. And you will have to learn, because it requires a set of skills you don't have yet. I did a fair amount of research online before putting blade to skin for the first time, and I suggest you do the same. My best advice is don't be too scared. It's actually not as bad as you think, and confidence will make a big difference in whether and how badly you cut yourself. I made it to my fourth shave without a nick, but when I did draw blood, it was a bit of a doozy. Still, I can dig it.

As for the Dr. Bronner's soap, it's not so much my Jam. I still prefer the old fashioned cake of soap in the mug. Mrs.G likes it, though, so consider giving this to the lady if you don't prefer it.

As for straight blade shaving in general, I'm a fan, and if you've got the stuff, I suggest you give it a try. I won't say that this will be the only way I'll ever shave again. It's time consuming, and with two small kids in the house, I don't always have that time. But a combo of safety razor quickies, and straight razor "me time" is just the ticket.

With that, AAW welcomes Heritage Shaving as it's first sponsor. A small company run by a guy in the Midwest trying to defray the cost of grad school, the kind of company I'm happy to give my money to (even if they did send me stuff for free, but still...you get the idea). If you've ever thought it would be wise to put a surgically sharp blade to your throat first thing in the morning, I suggest you buy your supplies from them.

*a note on sponsorship: An Affordable Wardrobe is now accepting advertising. However, this does not mean I am now in the habit of "shilling" or running "advertorial" content. If you have a quality product to sell that is in keeping with the spirit of this blog, I am happy to run your ad for a nominal fee. In a real sense, buying an ad here buys an endorsement, because I won't sell you the ad if your product is junk. There's no time for that. If I do write about a product, as I have done just now, it is because I wanted to and will continue to give my honest opinion. That ought to get the p.r. firms to beat down my door.

Tie Tied, Shirt Tucked In, Buttons Buttoned

2011-10-29T22:26:00.000-07:00

If your going to dress well, don't cop out by "casualizing" everything about it. If you wear a tie, close your collar and push it up; if you wear a proper shirt, tuck it in; if you wear a jacket, button it. After all, if something like this:

...can be done with all the finer points of neatness in place, what's your excuse for half stepping? And who says that wearing a suit is stiff and restrictive? Someone without style, no doubt.

AAW Live on Stage

2011-10-27T21:18:00.000-07:00

A.R. Gurney's play Children, concerning the decline of the American W.A.S.P. aristocracy and based loosely on a story by Ivy/Trad/Preppy (blech, I hate those terms) guru John Cheever, is running at the Beckett Theatre, part of New York City's "Theatre Row". A series of panel discussions focusing on various topics touched on in the play is planned, in which yours truly will be a humble participant. I'll be discussing "preppy fashion" and what that means with Ann Weiser after the show on Friday, 4 November.

Come see a ressurected play worth seeing, and if you're lucky I might say something memorable. I may be proficient at writing for the internet, though my public speaking skills are admittedly rusty at best. No rotten tomatoes, please.

You Are Not a Mannequin

2011-10-26T22:29:00.000-07:00

Inspired by the success of some little outfit called Polo Ralph Lauren, my man Bill wore this to the recent Top Shelf Flea IV:

55% wool/ 45% cotton Viyella shirt, J. Press tie, Andover Shop collar pin, Andover Shop tweed, vintage 1970s corduroy vest. Polo Ralph has a particular knack for selling things, and I'm not the least ashamed to admit to stealing from him. At least I stayed away from the immensely affected pinned button down collar. Bill can wear it, you (or I) probably can't.

I have been considering the possibility of having a few shirts made in big tartan plaid with spread collars and French cuffs. Given my rube tendencies in custom shirts, this should come as no surprise. It will be either murder, or suicide, sartorially speaking. The jury's still out, and your opinions are welcome. Likely the more sensible among you will advise me against it. Also likely I get one in Dress Gordon for the holidays. We'll see.

p.s the Shop is brimming with new stock. Check it.

Top Shelf IV in the Bag.

2011-10-25T10:28:00.000-07:00

It is my pleasure to announce that the fourth semi-annual Top Shelf Flea Market was a great time and a great success. Consensus is, among vendors and patrons alike, that a good time was had by all. To say I feel gratified by the level of response we received is an understatement. "Humbled" is closer to the truth. As usual, I was far too busy to take many usable photos. The following will have to suffice.

A constant flow of people, at every booth. A friendly and enthusiastic crowd to boot.

Bobby from Boston as usual gives a lesson in how it's done. "We wanted a little more of a Motown 60s vibe with this years booth." Says owner Bobby Garnett. Note the white shoes and Chelsea boots. There was also an entire size run of deadstock permanent press stove pipe slacks with top pockets. A bit on the trim side for me, but perfect for the 24 year old set, who happened to be there in droves. In fact, one of the more gratifying aspects of the event was the sheer number of eager young people interested in all this old fuddy duddy stuff. Hope yet for the future, I guess.

Plastic Fantastic housewares to match your new stove pipe pants over at Nimco;s booth...

Loads of vintage bow ties at Newton Street Vintage....

I'm going to ask the Dilboy Post to install a working fireplace, to complete the erudite feel of James' booth. Not taking things too seriously, his Swamp Rabbit Books t-shirts bearing the famous John Waters quote "if you go home with someone and they don't have books, don't f*ck them" provided a dose of levity.

Kid Brother give a mean shoe shine. My old tassels never looked better...

Drappier Carte d'Or Champagne is a big pinot noir driven blend with a voluptuous texture, and heady scent redolent of yeast. Creamy and delicate all at once, it provided the perfect accompaniment to an order of take out sushi that was perhaps a bit too large. Thank you customers for helping me afford it....

...as well as this crazy heap that sits in my back yard awaiting insurance and inspection. I'm already calling it the Waspmobile. It's perfect for me: something made for old money New Englanders that is already old and a little broken when I got it. A perfect match to most of my clothes...

I might even leave the un-earned Brown decal on it, just for fashion. It's almost like buying a car at the Rugby store. I am by no means a car guy, and I'm not that into driving, but cramming a shops worth of stuff into a sedan is getting old, quick. Thanks for helping me with that, too.

As always, credit for the success of this event lies mainly with the vendors and visitors. I may work hard to pull this thing together, but it wouldn't mean a thing without the rest of you. Thanks.

p.s. the online Shop will be up and running again by the end of the week. Tons of new goodies on the way.

Going to Market

2011-10-22T21:27:00.000-07:00

The time is upon us. A few notes to readers and friends before we pack this show up and bring it to market.

My thanks and apologies to Top Shelf Vendors who did not receive individual write ups here on the blog. I love you all, but unfortunately one man can only do so much. If you're reading this and planning on coming, be sure and check out every table, as they're all good.

An Affordable Wardrobe online shop will be closed for business now until Tuesday, 25 October, in order to avoid any double selling. When we re-open, we'll be featuring new items for Fall/Winter. Call it the unveiling of AAW F/W 2011.

Special thanks to The Trad, Put This On, and anyone else who may have voluntarily plugged this thing online. Much obliged.

Come early, stay late, see you at noon.

Tweed & Flannel

2011-10-19T06:49:00.000-07:00

Wool, cashmere or some of each. Herringbone, glen checks, tartans, and more. A few choice bits of vintage bullet proof Harris Tweed. In a wide variety of sizes.

All available Sunday at the Flea. If you live out of town, don't worry. Remaining goods, as well as plenty of Fall/Winter items being held for the shop will be available online early next week.

Polo Teddy, in a vintage bow tie and Brooks Brothers detachable wing collar, will not be for sale, at any price, but he will be in attendance to sign autographs.

Cycling Attire

2011-10-18T21:13:00.000-07:00

I'm what the kids call "Old School". I wish, that in late October, it might be chilly outside, so I can wear my cold weather clothes, which are so much more my jam that the Summer stuff. But since it ain't, I decided to get the bikes back on the road, most notably Ye Olde Fixed Gear. Formerly my primary mode of transport, I'm thrilled to have her back as occasional company. However, now that tight pants and t-shirts are no longer quite "it", what to wear?

-Vintage athletic gear, of course. Tattered old khakis, rolled high, with a simple navy t-shirt, soft brown leather belt, orange socks and Converse...all elevated by the vintage 1960s navy Varsity cardigan with white stripes (and wooden buttons), best $1 I ever spent. A helmet, of course, is de rigeur.

p.s. a store bought "fixie" is lame to no end...a home made conversion is the Jam.

p.p.s. lugged steel frame

p.p.p.s. notice how this post had nothing to do with the Flea?....I fooled you...I fooled you....( I got all....livestock....)

Turn It Up, Then Take It Down a Notch

2011-10-16T20:20:00.000-07:00

For many men, dressing well is a matter of turning it up. It certainly is for me. In nearly every given situation I can think of, I'm likely to be dressed in a way that is turned up five notches from the average level. I wear a coat and tie to my job, where the accepted dress code is jeans. I dress the same way for trips into the city. I prefer shoes to sneakers, and when I do wear those they're of the understated cloth variety. While I do wear jeans or shorts at the playground, I see to it that they are clean and crisp, and I always wear a shirt with a collar. This isn't meant to be bragging, far from it. Indeed, if anything, this assures that I will be the weird guy sticking out like a sore thumb nearly everywhere I go. And yet, for all this, I rarely get to wear a suit.

I did find an excuse to don one recently, at a big public event at my job. The memo to staff that went out a few days before specified "business casual" for the floor staff. Since my day to day dress is in fact what might be considered business casual in the first place, and since the idea was to get everyone a little gussied up for the occasion, I decided to turn it up one and opted for the full navy suit (J.Press, $7.99). When wearing a suit for something other than office business, especially a navy one, it helps to turn things down a bit in the appointments, softening the look of the suit and taking some of the stuffiness out of it. Few things shout "board meeting" like a navy suit with black shoes, a white shirt and a simple burgundy tie. Avoid the white shirt and black leather, and the whole mood can change.

In this case, I opted for a shirt in blue and black mini tattersall check with button down collar by Brooks Brothers ($5.49). I did stick with the understated burgundy tie, but opted for wool over silk (Fitzgerald's of Grand Rapids, $1.99). Much like the check pattern and button down collar of the shirt, the soft, matte wool tie helps keep things leaning toward casual, imminently appropriate for an afternoon event. The pocket square in rich paisley rather than crisp white follows suit.

Brown shoes instead of black, loafers instead of lace ups. Two rules violated, but this also follows the theme of the business suit in the non business setting. Popping socks would have been too much here, so simple navy is the best bet.

Wearing a brown hat with a navy suit may in fact be grounds for termination, but I can dig it. Besides, it's all I can do not to wear this hat in the shower since I had it refurbished, and you have been asking for an "action shot". Pay no attention to that heap of clothes on the chair in the background. I do run a clothing store out of my house, you know, and things have a way of encroaching on the living space. Ask Mrs. G.

Collar pin as tie pin is a nice trick on a wool tie. Don't try this on silk as the holes will never come out. But on wool, they'll close up, maybe with a nudge from a little steam. This little detail was likely one step too far, it's true, but I can only suppress my naturally garish inclinations so much in one ensemble.

If you've got a navy blue suit sitting in the closet that was worn to some interview long ago, and you don't have a "suit job", and nobodies dying or getting married anytime soon, dust it off and try it out with some softer, more well worn accoutrements, just because you can. You may find in that navy suit a new old friend you never knew you had.

PTO x TCC

2011-10-14T20:09:00.000-07:00

That is the preferred method of abbreviating a collaborative effort these days, isn't it? Anyway, I am honored to be one of the select advance recipients of this Put This On by Cordial Churchman bow tie.

Plays quite well with a Brooks Brothers pink oxford ($5.49) and a jacket in soft brown tweed by the Andover Shop ( $11.99. Pricey by my usual standards, but still a bargain). Thank you both Jesse and Ellie. I will wear it proudly.

Speaking of the Cordial Churchman, I'm pleased to announce that I will once again be carrying a line of Ellie's fine bow ties, as well as a few scarves and ascots, at the upcoming Top Shelf Flea Market.

p.s. Kid Brother will be back with his shoe shine kit. Wear the most scuffed up pair you have.

Top Shelf Vendor : Vintage Haven

2011-10-13T21:26:00.000-07:00

Back once more after an absence last time, the Top Shelf Flea is proud to welcome Debbie Gannon of Vintage Haven back into the fold. Ladies, come get your Brand New Leopard Skin Pill Box Hat.

Last time Deb was here, I marveled at the tiny 8x8 shop she managed to construct in less than an hour prior to opening. Really, her booth was like a tiny store, attended by a friendly, knowledgeable and passionate shop-keep. And best of all, there was a little bit of everything. Something for the guys, something for the girls. I'm still kicking myself for not buying the vintage wool Red Sox pennant she had last time.

This time out, she'll be featuring plenty of LBDs (little black dresses) for all those holiday parties, skirts, blouses, coats and lingerie (ooh, la la!)

For the boys, shirts, ties, hats, and Victorian collars and cuffs...for the Steam Punks.

New in her booth will be a selection of vintage housewares, including but not limited to some great vintage cocktail glassware sets, lamps, quilts, table cloths and Pyrex.

"...it balances on your head just like a mattress on a bottle of wine....your Brand New Leopard Skin Pill Box Hat...."

An Affordable Wardrobe for Esquire.com

2011-10-12T21:03:00.000-07:00

Friend, neighbor and Top Shelf Flea Market lieutenant James of 10Engines and I have a very nerdy, high school debate team style parlay over the appropriatenes of Western clothing on men other than ranch hands and rodeo riders in Blogger Showdown at Esquire.com.

It was a pleasure, and I had a great time. My only regret is not bringing ZZ Top circa 1974 into the discussion.

Restraint is a Virtue (But We All Slip Sometimes)

2011-10-11T21:27:00.000-07:00

A long time ago, in the very earliest stages of this blog, the fellow once known to us all as Longwing had this to say:

"Thrifters have too much sh*t. You get used to not getting exactly what you want so you tend to buy everything that even comes close."

I agreed with him then and still do, and responded with my 7th post ( this one will be #561). Still we slip sometimes, and a well loved if useless item comes to stay in our closets. But eventually, we must say goodbye.

This old gun club check jacket is a thing of beauty, made by hand in 1960 , by the tailoring firm Davies and Sons in London.

a piece of cloth so beautiful, almost anachronistic in its level of quality. The couple of tiny moth holes in it never bothered me much, gave it some character. I see a lot of nice things in my various sartorial hunting trips, but few as well woven as this. I really enjoyed wearing this jacket, but...

photo from another old post

...it never really fit right, and I guess I always knew it. Some of you even told me so, but I didn't listen. The coat is too nice, and I wanted it for my own. But with my own closets strained now to the bursting point, it's time to let this bird go. After all, the days of me and size 40 regular aren't even in the rear view anymore, I've driven so far past them. So it is with no small amount of sadness that I put this one up in the Shop. I thought about saving it for the Flea, but this way there's a slim chance it goes back to England, where it rightly belongs.

In any case, I beg one of you to give it a good home, and wear it well. I apologize for the underlying commercialism of this post, but a special piece deserves a special send off.

p.s. other new items available in the Shop as well.

Top Shelf Vendor : Newton Street Vintage

2011-10-10T19:25:00.000-07:00

Zach of Newton Street Vintage is another stalwart of the Top Shelf Flea Market. In some sense it may be bad for business on my end to have him around. He gives me a real run for my money in the classic menswear department. But he's friendly and enthusiastic, and his stuff is good.

An eye for the perfect combination of tradition and luxury is a strong point of his...

...as evidenced in these two stacks of shirts: On the left, big plaids for the lumberjack in you, some in thick flannel, some in soft Viyella. On the right, a fine stock of traditional dress shirts.
Throw down a gauntlet, and someone is bound to pick it up. Recently, Zach took my pair of Tartan sets to be such a gauntlet, and he counters with these (among others):

A 3/2 sack in Black Watch camel hair from Brooks Brothers...

...and this killing number, unstructured and slouchy, and rendered in old Viyella. If that thing is a size 42, I'm nabbing it myself.

For more info on Zach and Newton Street Vintage, as well as a small sampling of his collection of stunning tweeds, read Zach's recent post over at the Top Shelf Flea blog.

Come early and stay late. If you love classic clothing, but your budget is meager, and you live in a modern world so lacking in stylish options for the average man, this Fall's TSFM will be like making up for lost time.

See you there.

Worth Every Penny : Hat Refurbishment at Salmagundi Hat Shop

2011-10-09T21:29:00.000-07:00

I continue to live by my self coined addage that the best new things are old things, particularly if those old things are things you already own. Being thrifty doesn't only mean buying the best things you can for the cheapest prices. The term applies just as well to repair and refurbishment of well made things of value. This can be a bit costly, but there are times when it's worth every penny.

You may remember my trusty, crusty, well worn and well loved old brown hat (mentioned previously here) :

An old Dobbs fedora, from a long gone store called Boyd's of Philadelphia, likely 1950s vintage. The hat is upwards of sixty years old, and I've owned it for about ten. Originally worn with a tattered vintage army coat and tight, dark jeans in my own version of some sort of punk-rockabilly get-up, this hat has been through a lot with me. Lord knows where it was before. It's been cloaked in cigarette smoke, soaked in booze, sweated through, rained on, and even run over by cars a couple of times. But it remains with me, for better or worse, most recently seeing service on the snow man the kids an I built in the yard last Winter.

Greasy stains...felt fur matted with dirt...

...a mere shred of the leather sweatband remained, the satin lining lost completely long ago...

It even had a tear in it, about two inches wide, right in front where the brim meets the ribbon. A lost cause? Hardly.

It's been a while since I wore this style of hat regularly, but lately I've been in the mood. I nabbed a really dressy black number not too long ago, and it got me thinking that it would be nice to have a proper hat that was less formal, one that would look equally well with a Barbour and jeans or a suit and overcoat. The search landed me at the Salmagundi Hat Shop in the Jamaica Plain area in Boston. They have quite a few nice hats, and one of any real quality will run a guy just shy of $100. I was willing to pay, but none of the hats really got me, mostly because all I really wanted was my old hat back. Turns out for $110, a price just $22 higher than the hat I nearly settled for, Salmagundi offers a complete overhaul service. So I grabbed my old brown hat, snapped a few quick photos of it in its ratty state, and headed (ha, "head"ed) over. About a month later, the hat was ready, and I invite you all to join me in welcoming my prodigal son back home. Let's kill the fatted calf.

What I got was something shocking, to me anyway. A beautiful brown fur felt hat, sharp and clean, with a lot more shape than the junker I left with them. Still, for as sharp and "new" as it was, it retained the familiar softness and easy fit of my "old" hat. The best new things really are old things.

A brand new grosgrain ribbon with an expertly pleated bow gives new life to this warhorse. The slightly darker brown color gives it a bit of a new feel, perhaps a bit more "city" and a bit less "Grapes of Wrath". By contrast, the fur felt is a few shades lighter, having shed its decades of grit, and once again has the soft fuzzy nap of a nice new hat. The original brim binding in tan grosgrain privides just the right touch of contrast.

Inside, a new leather sweat band and a new satin lining, proper style. I can dig the acorn logo, and I have no problem with this hat being rebranded as a Slamagundi. They earned it.

The two inch tear is now completely invisible from the outside...

...though we do have a minor battle scar in the form of this tiny scrap of grosgrain glued to the back of the wound to hold it together. No matter, I like a little battle scar, and given the fact that nearly everything I own has at least one, I'm used to it. Perfection is for suckers anyway.
These kind of hats may not be for every guy, but if you've got what it takes, check these guys out. Plenty here for the well appointed ladies as well. Better still, if you've got an old clunker of faded glory, hand it over for a new lease on life. It's worth every penny.

10 October 2011
Correction: Boyd's of Philadelphia is still running strong and considered to be a decent heberdashery.

Reader Questions

2011-10-08T21:40:00.000-07:00

A question involving men's coats...even if it was 80 degrees in Boston today...

image: Gazette of Fashion, 1872, via Wikipedia

John writes:

I'm having trouble finding a good, classic winter jacket and am wondering if you could throw out some ideas. The only jacket I really have in mind right now is the barbour sylkoil bedale (with a liner). Just a couple things about myself that may be helpful: I'm 21, in college, average build.

For starters, I think a man could do worse in Winter than a Barbour Bedale with zip out lining. The trick here is not to fall too hard for fashion, and get one in your proper size. A Barbour jacket should fit a litle boxy and down to mid thigh. Besides being infinitely better suited to keeping the rain off than a jacket too short, the additional room provides ample space for the coat to be worn over a bulky sweater or even a down vest, a combo I'm quite fond of for snow shovelling. This coat, when fitted such, goes well over a tweed jacket...in a pinch even over a suit. The fashion of the times may be for a coat (or everything else) a size too small, but this will look dated and silly soon enough. A Barbour may be relatively expensive for a man of 21, but it is an investment, something you'll own and use for a very long time if you purchase wisely. Ebay, outlets, and the Sierra Trading Post are good places to hunt for deals. Just be sure you get one made in England. Otherwise, it ain't really a Barbour.

There are other options, some better than others. A navy surplus pea coat will keep you warm and stylish in casual situations, but can be limiting for dressier affairs. The classic duffel, or toggle, coat looks great with jeans and a sweater, flannels and blazer, or a suit, especially in the "preppy" vein. Honestly, if you're stylish and confident enough, wear it with a tux...I dare you. They're warm as hell, and the hood is handy in the wind. These days, they've enjoyed a resurgence in popularity, so the options are open wide. Of course, thirft stores are my preferred place to find these things, but you can get one in the mall at the Gap, in a place like Brooks Brothers, or online direct from England. Gloverall is the standard here, but a younger man with a little style can make do with one of the knock-offs until he graduates up to the good stuff. Avoid plaids or silly colors. A duffel coat is best expressed in tan, navy or loden (dark, hunter green).

Dressier still but also versatile is a coat in grey herringbone tweed. Single breasted, with a simple three button front and moderate lapels, this coat was made for suits and business clothes, but has no problem hanging over dark jeans and a sweater. A bit more dashing than the duffle coat, and maybe a bit more grown-up. Make sure it has enough room in the fit to accomodate bulky clothes underneath, and keep it just short of knee length. Again, there are a lot of reasonably good looking cheap options available to young men these days, but if you can, buy the good one. This is another piece you could potentially wear forever, so don't be afraid to invest.

Styles such as the polo, Chesterfield or Covert coat are real swell, but none of these can be the only coat. Save these styles for supplemental options later down the line. "Puffer" coats are great for sledding, skiing, snow ball fights with cute girls, and Sunday morning bacon and eggs trips. They're a disaster with dress clothes, so these too should be supplemental.

Whatever style you choose, and whatever you wear, only one real "rule" applies: keep warm.

That is what a coat is for, after all. Isn't it?

Top Shelf Vendor : Swamp Rabbit Books

2011-10-07T09:59:00.000-07:00

Recently, I aked Top Shelf vendors for some info I could use to write about them here. James, of Swamp Rabbit Books, knocked it out of the park. He replied with a well written missive that gets at the wonder and beauty of old a rare books, but a lot of what he expressed applies to an addiction to anything old and well made. His entire piece is recreated below for your perusal.

A few years before I started Swamp Rabbit Books I was in a huge bookstore on the West Coast, and I came across a misshelved little volume from the 18th century, leatherbound and worn, tucked in with
the glossy paperbacks in the travel section. I wrapped it carefully in my coat and gingerly took it to the customer service counter. The rest of the day I felt like I'd been granted a glimpse through a magical
window that looked out on centuries of history.

Now I am surrounded by books all the time: my bedroom alone has five bookcases in it, not counting the entire wall I converted to shelving when I first moved in. I love it. The smell of ink and paper, the rustle of pages turning, the stateliness of a line of titles standing shoulder-to-shoulder on a shelf. That magic contained in a book goes beyond just words on pages. A book lives through time; it doesn't just exist the way an appliance might, and it collects readers the way a reader might collect books. It keeps a piece of every reader with it: a bookplate, a signature of ownership, a dog-eared page or underlined passage, a hint of wear on the jacket. Books can change lives, and they do. My job is to help make that happen, by connecting books with readers.

I like collectible books, too: the pristine first edition, like a single moment of history -- the debut of a work of art! --preserved as it was that day; the signed copies, once held in the hands of their creator and marked by those hands. I have a few books that were the personal copies of their authors, passed down through the family after they passed.

I founded Swamp Rabbit Books in 2009, when I was living in South Carolina. A swamp rabbit is an unassuming Southern creature probably best known for an incident in which one tried to board a small boat bearing then-president Jimmy Carter, who rather ineffectively attempted to fend it off with a paddle. I thought I'd be opening up a bookstore down there at some point, and it seemed like a good mascot for a Southern bookstore. I began by selling books online, and that's still where I sell most of my books. The store never materialized and when I had the opportunity to move to Boston, one of the literary centers of the country, I jumped on it. I have a few thousand books now, ranging from the 1700s to this year, and I'm adding more all the time. Just like the search for vintage clothing, finding books of
interest is a treasure hunt and a joy.

I'll be returning to the Top Shelf Flea this fall with more modern first editions, more signed copies, and more inexpensive paperbacks. I'll also be bringing some more stationary and art, including the disbound pages of book illustrations that proved popular last spring; some of these will be framed, but most will be loose. I also expect to devote a good bit of space to antiquarian books, which I have not done in the past.

Looking forward to seeing you there!

James

Teaser, part II

2011-10-05T21:31:00.000-07:00

The old feud between the Hatfields and the McCoys may be a bloody moment in history as well as familiar vintage cartoon fodder to many Americans, but imagine how much more well appointed a feud between the Andersons and the Sutherlands would have been.

A vintage blazer in Anderson tartan, with matching wool tie...

and another set in Old Sutherland tartan. Both recently acquired and being held for Top Shelf Flea Market IV. I really want these jacket to go to someone who sees them up close, marvels at the beautifully dyed and woven cloth, and promises to invite me to the Bobby Burns party he plans to host as a result of his recent unneccesary purchase.

Casual but Smart: Black and Brown (and Tan and White)

2011-10-04T19:13:00.000-07:00

October is here and we've finally had some Fall weather just cool enough to comfortably wear some slightly heavier stuff. In the past, I've been known to dive in too quickly, going into full blast tweed mode too soon. Today, for a day of knocking around Harvard Square with temps in the low 60s, some sun, some rain, this vintage black melton wool jacket was just right:

This black jacket is a good casual piece, despite it's being black in color, rendered in soft melton wool (which I was calling flannel until I realizee my mistake) with open patch pockets and zero shoulder pads (seriously, no shoulder pads at all). Some of you may remember it as one of my many button changing projects. The tie is a vintage 1980s Chaps Ralph Lauren tie found new with tags for $1.99. Black ties can be very dressy, but the tan stripes bring it down a notch, as well as making it compatible with...

...a dressier pair of khaki pants, charcoal cotton socks ($19.50/ package of three pair at Lands' End) and ...gasp!...brown loafers. Brown shoes with a black jacket?! Scandalous?! No, of course not, this is only clothes we're talking about. Remember, though I may be wearing a coat and tie, I'm wearing them by choice for a day of casual activities, including visits to such places as the coffee house, record store and church thrift shop. If you want to appear casual in a coat and tie, it helps if your outfit is not an essay in arcane rules but rather a study in well appointed comfort...within reason, of course.

A brown Donegal Tweed cap with flecks of black, gold and purple (hard to see in the photo) brings it all together.

Knockaround clothes for grown-ups, not pyjamas in public.

Top Shelf Vendor: Bobby from Boston

2011-10-03T20:46:00.000-07:00

In the coming weeks, I'll be doing a short feature on each of the vendors at TSFMIV, starting at the top with Bobby from Boston. The only one among us with absolute zero web presence...because he doesn;t need it. Bobby invented the game, and he remains it's reigning champion. This short video, by Lea Winkler, captures it pretty well for those of you who don't already know.

Bobby From Boston: A Documentary from Lea Winkler on Vimeo.

The man himself may not be there all day (he'll probably be out in some far flung place buying a house full of silk top hats and cutaway coats) but his friendly and knowledgeable cohorts will be manning center stage with a miniature version of all the wonders of his inimitable shop in Boston's South End. Don't miss it.

Reader Question

2011-10-01T10:16:00.000-07:00

This is the first in An Affordable Wardrobe's "Reader Questions" series. We welcome your inquiries on all matters sartorial and thrifty, and a question will be chosen for feature here bi-weekly. For more info, click the tab above.

Reader Michael writes:

I was wondering what your thoughts were about pairing brown accessories with black and white tweed when I saw your 10/30/2010 post in which you paired a black and white tweed and a surcingle belt with brown leather fittings.

I guess I've always been touchy with the black/brown accessory divide. Only recently have I gotten comfortable with pairing gray sweaters or slacks with brown shoes. The problem is that I have a particularly rugged-looking black and white Harris tweed (the weave is coarser than the one in your post) that I picked up--is there a point when a tweed becomes so coarse that you can no longer get away with treating it as gray? In other words, if a black and white tweed gets too coarse, am I dooming myself to black accessories? Am I just being ridiculous, as my wife insists?

In another blazer question, I have several tweed sport coats that fit perfectly with just an oxford shirt; however, as the weather gets colder, I plan on layering by wearing sweaters or sweater vests underneath them. The problem is that, when I button the coats in question over a shirt and a sweater, it looks a tad too snug in the gut. I see a lot of people at our church wearing unbuttoned coats over sweaters, and I've been wondering: are they doing it because, like me, they'd be too too hemmed-in if they buttoned their coats, or do they probably have plenty of room but are just leaving the button undone because they feel like it? In short, should I refrain from wearing a sport coat if I can't button it over a sweater without it looking too snug, or is wearing such a coat open an acceptable alternative?

Michael poses some good questions for the kind of guy who not only bothers to think about these things but actually enjoys it. And yes, in the opinion of 95% of humanity, he's being crazy. But it's the other 5% that tend be readers here, so let's proceed.

Black shoes with black and white tweed will always be correct, if maybe a little boring. Brown shoes, in my opinion, are the way to go. For one thing, tweed is a fabric with it's origins in British country clothing, so in a sense brown shoes are more appropriate than black, which are for city wear. For another, I find the rich texture of tweeds, flannel and wool tends to look well with the warmer tones of brown leather rather than the colder tones of black. Though it may be actually black and white, I find it best to think of tweed as being grey. Charcoal and dark brown or cordovan shades is a hard combo to beat for what was once considered "casual" attire. Pictured above is my favorite go-to herringbone jacket. You'll notice that the manufacturer has finished it with brown buttons. That pretty much seals the deal.

Personally, I'm almost exclusively a brown shoe guy, reserving black for formal wear and the odd occasion I wear a navy suit with a white shirt. Even then I frequently opt for brown. For some men, they can be tougher to wear than black, as there are so many variations of color. Black may be easier, but brown offers more choices and room for personal flair.

As for the matter of open sports coats, I do think this may have something to do with the additional bulk of sweaters underneath and I think it's fine to wear them open. Remember, you may be in a coat and tie, but a sweater and tweed was once considered casual, and wearing it in a relaxed way is no problem. The purists will kick and scream, but it's best to wear things with a little less attention to perfection sometimes. Tailoring them to fit over sweaters can cause the opposite problem of making a jacket too roomy to wear with just a shirt underneath, which I think would be far worse.

As for what the other guys at church are doing, I think you should be grateful to live in a community where any part of the adult male population is still taking the effort to dress properly for a church service.

p.s. new items this week in the shop.

All the Details

2011-09-28T21:35:00.000-07:00

An urbanized country jacket from the early 1960s, this little number has all the details:

"Urbanized" because it's sleek and trim, fashioned of a soft lightweight tweed...not thick and heavy and thorn proof, and clearly not for shooting birds in the wet high grass. Killer cool nonetheless.

Hacking pockets (you know, the kind set at an angle)...

...a throat latch, for cold days...

...a flap breast pocket. The button is a fake, and will have to go...

...single button cuff tabs, unusual but I can dig it....

...admittedly, the full Norfolk belt may be a tad much, even for me..

...fortunately, the front and back are separate, attached by buttons at the side, giving the option of wearing only a half belt in back....and a hooked vent for good measure.

The cheesy grey fake leather buttons will have to go. For some reason, in the early '60s, so many great things were adorned with bad buttons. No matter, it's a small fix. I'm thinking dark brown real braided leather, or maybe even wood.

I've got the charcoal flannels and wide wale cords covered. All I need now is a cashmere turtleneck in tan, cream, or dark charcoal. Better keep the attitude in check, though. The line between stylish and unbearably pretentious is razor thin with garments like this, but I'm willing to have a go on the tightrope.

The generous gift of Mrs. G., bought at a thrift shop for less than eight bucks.

Thanks, Hon.

The Line-Up

2011-09-26T13:09:00.000-07:00

No, not that kind. I mean the one for Top Shelf Flea Market IV. I'm pleased to announce that as of today, the roster is set, and it's a good one full of choice vendors. Click here for more details.

Top Shelf Flea Market IV (a teaser)

2011-09-25T19:36:00.000-07:00

We got ties for days......

...stripes...

...paisleys (the next big thing, mark my words. Be ahead of the curve), foulards, and other "neats"

in silk, madder, and challis...

...big fat woolens, perfect for the cold season.

Tres trendy, from before they were trendy...

...grasshoppers, whales, beer, dogs, and other embroidered tomfoolery.

Something for every taste and every occasion, available at TSFMIV. Consider this the first in a series of shameless self promoting posts. If this seems a little crass, my apologies, but, a fellas gotta eat, you know?

p.s. we're currently searching for a record/music vendor to fill the final spot. Interested parties please contact me via email for rates and information.

The Jams

2011-09-22T21:07:00.000-07:00

The Equinox, the official cosmic switch from Summer to Autumn, occurs tommorrow morning. Given the heat and dense humidity here in the Northeast, it seems only fitting we discuss hot jams from the Southern hemisphere.

Segio Mendes and Brasil '66...hot music from a hot place...the progenitors of the very category of music known as Brasilian jazz...hopping out of the wooden speakers by way of the needle, nothing does a cocktail party at home more justice...if only I could host one.

In keeping with the topic of a few posts ago, it takes a heavy dose of style to pull of a tux in a South American rain forest.

Sometimes when this band is mentioned, people snigger and make cracks about the waiting room of the dentist's office, the one with the Naugahyde(tm) couch and the plastic curtains. But nothing could be farther from the truth. Though similar on the merest technical level with all things associated with the general genre, and in spite of being discovered by Herb Alpert, Brasil '66 plays music that is all about a fire in the belly and well dressed grown-ups enjoying themselves like well dressed grown-ups.

If you don't believe me, take it up with Ms. Eartha Kitt...

...I dare you.

p.s. ear-rings
p.p.s pink French cuffs
p.p.p.s Gretsch drum kit
p.p.p.p.s. you don't get to wear a scraggly beard and nerdly hair cut until you come up with a Jam like this.

Off Season: Unsolicited Advice from a Know-It-All Stranger

2011-09-19T20:48:00.000-07:00

Younger men might be generally a bunch of slobs, with a staunch few struggling to do better. But we need to help these guys, not disdain them, for it is their parents, if anyone, to blame for their complete social and sartorial ignorance. Here's a snarky story:

Pictured above is a pair of 1960s vintage real madras jackets, acquired last Saturday. They're dirty as hell, and one needs a button replaced, but honestly, two real madras jackets, in my size, in excellent plaids, in one day? Worth every bit of $14.98. But the jackets are immaterial. How I came by them is the real story.

A young fellow, early twenties, was in the thrift store with his mother, father and kid brother (18?) looking for a blazer. Mom kept trying to get him to buy orphaned suit coats. Dad kept telling him everything that fit was too small, and tried to coax him into two sizes too big. Kid brother just kept giving him a hard time, the only member of this family actually doing his job. At one point, he had on a perfectly serviceable navy blazer with sleeves a hair long, which mother told him would be impossible to alter. My ears were burning, but it was none of my business, and so I stayed out of it. So I turned away.

Then I hear father and brother really laying into him for how silly something looks, while big brother tries to defend his choice of something which clearly appeals to him on a real level. I look up to find the kid in a vintage Indian madras jacket, big plaid in burgundy, navy and gold, that fits him well. As he momentarily escapes the clutches of his parents' useless and misguided advice to find a mirror, I immediately dive on these other two.

The kid comes back and says to his parents something like " I don't care what you say, a cute girl just told me I look good in this jacket so I'm getting it." I smile. Mom and Dad are not happy, and I can hold my tongue no longer.

"You know," I said, " in another kind of store that jacket would sell for quite a lot of money. It's really something special you have there, a real Indian madras jacket. That cloth hasn't existed in a long time, and collector's would go mad over it. That's why I'm getting the other two. Good job."

"Really?" says mom.

"Really." says I.

"See, I knew this jacket was cool." says the kid.

Dad and younger brother are speechless.

Maybe I shouldn't have butted in, and I'm glad I didn't hand out a business card. But c'mon, this kid was feeling it, and he just needed some encouragement. If mom and dad, especially dad, wasn't willing to give it, I'd like to think, in my own demented way, I helped that kid down the road to dressing well.

The kid even said to his shocked parents " Let's keep looking for something more conservative, too. This is a fun jacket." There's hope for the future yet.

p.s. after a period of neglect, there are new items in the Shop, with Fall/Winter items beginning to trikle in. Have a look.

The Trick to Formalwear

2011-09-15T21:37:00.000-07:00

...is to wear it comfortably....casually.

Despite what they say, it shouldn't be a "monkey suit".

Clean and Simple...and Casual?

2011-09-13T19:42:00.000-07:00

It's not often that I write about evening wear, given it's near total lack of relevance to my own life. But in the past few weeks I've been using this photo, recently taken for the AAW Shop, for various purposes, and it's got me thinking.

To begin with, the tuxedo is a vintage one dating from the early 1960s, year round wool with satin faced shawl collar, two button cuffs and single pleated pants. It's by After Six, a name by now so synonymous with cheap rental monkey suits as to make one gag. Funny thing is, this suit reminds me that After Six might not have been so bad in the old days. I sometimes find old Joseph A. Bank stuff from the 60s that throws me for a similar loop. Sooner than we think, we'll likely be saying the same things about Brooks Brothers.

The tie is vintage 1960s Brooks Brothers. I'm not generally one to advocate anything other than a black bow with evening clothes, but I like the look of the tiny white pin dots here. It turns the formality down a half a notch, in a good way. But it's the shirt, a plain white pinpoint with with a spread collar, crisp and clean, but certainly not a formal shirt, that has me thinking.

My mannequin, Bill, always wears a white shirt, because it makes it easy to photograph any type of jacket or suit. His tie changes from time to time, but not his shirt. So when I had a tux to photograph, I was set. I chose this tie over my own black satin evening bow because it was narrow, more in keeping with the cut of the lapels. Though the shirt and tie may not be technically formal, I have to admit I like this look.

It reminds me of a time when evening clothes were worn frequently...in the evening, to dinner, or shows, or just house parties. It reminds of a time when men were comfortable in these clothes. It reminds of a time when these clothes were known as "semi-formal". It brings the tuxedo one step closer to any other suit and tie combination, while still maintaining all the aspects that make it a special outfit. It's black and white, clean and simple, a bit shiny here and there, and quiet counterpoint to showcase the ladies clothes. The shirt may not be pleated or closed with studs, but as long as it has French cuffs I think its fine. Polished, matte finish black oxfords, rather than patent pumps, would finish the job. This may seem like blasphemy, but think of all the photos you've seen of guys in tuxes with plaid pants or tartan jackets. Same idea, but I like this better. Save the tartan stuff strictly for Christmas and Bobby Burns parties.

In a tux like this, not-quite-all-the-way-formal, a guy could actually ride around town in a taxi, hitting bars, shows, restaurants and parties, in comfort and style. Just by softening up the details a bit, a tux actually becomes...wearable? It could be something a guy has and wears with some frequency, rather than some stiff ugly thing worn only to functions he'd rather not attend only to be returned the next morning.

Bring back the barely formal, regularly worn tuxedo. Who's with me?

Just In Time for Duck Hunting Season

2011-09-12T18:51:00.000-07:00

I don't generally care for shopping on the internet from large companies, mostly because they inundate you forever after with useless print catalogs. While it is true that I like old and even anachronistic things, print catalogs these days are an inexcusable waste of glossy printed, hard to recycle paper, little better in that regard than supermarket circulars, encyclopediae and phonebooks. Still, I do like to look at them and I curse the way they have of making one want something one doesn't need...but I guess that's the point.

Two such catalogs arrived today from Orvis. Orvis is a strange company to me. Last year, I ordered a Tyrolean hat from them, which I love, and I always thought of them as a sort of upscale L.L.Bean. But I must admit to being largely disappointed in their catalogs. For lack of a better word, most of the stuff is plain old frumpy, stuff for old white guys. And not cool stuff for old white guys, or even stuff brilliant in its goofiness, but just plain old dorky grandpa stuff...mostly. But the supplemental catalog, entitled "The Hunting Book", restored the imagined reputation they had with me.

Guns, fishing gear, and camping bar sets abound. That's more like it...archaic hunting stuff for old white guys. This I can hang with, maybe even find some expensive thing I don't need to pretend I'm going to buy, or even actually buy when it goes on sale, thus insuring a steady stream of these catalogs for years to come. And then I turned the page to discover Manor Tweed Estate Shooting Gear:

I suppose we all knew this kind of thing still existed in England, but amazingly it's available for sale here in the United States, as in, you can really get this stuff, and presumably wear it to go out someplace and kill a duck.

Cap, coat and sports jacket (as in: jacket worn for sport, like hunting), all rendered in real Scottish tweed. To be worn with:

Breeks, stockings, flashes, tattersall shirts and neckties with embroidered waterfowl. Combined with the wooden case containing a bottle of Talisker and glasses shown a few pages previous, this get-up beats all stylish hell out of blaze orange, camo, and canned beer, theoretically.

As amazing as it may be that such things are available to us, you can rest assured I won't be purchasing any of it. For one thing, I don't shoot waterfowl, for another, it's extremely expensive, even if possibly worth it. Lastly, I can't help but think that hunting in America, the only thing keeping the other hunters from killing the poor bastard who arrives in this get-up for his sheer pansy-ism would be the Scotch. And after that's gone, a fella better run...fast, like a deer. Not to be harsh, but there's a fine line between liking old stuff and living in the past, and this sort of thing, anywhere but England, may be far on the wrong side of that thin line.

Personally, I'll settle for things that merely hint at this lifestyle:

Such as this pair of silly pants, which may just get me killed for sheer pansy-ism yet, acquired this morning for $5.99, hours before the arrival of the catalogs.

Cotton duck (ha-ha) canvas, printed, not embroidered....

A relic from the Brothers (there have been a lot of those lately). Irresistible.

The ever faithful Mr. Lee is altering and cleaning them as we speak, but I'll have them back just in time for duck hunting season.

Fall-ing

2011-09-07T22:48:00.000-07:00

Knitted silk in a yellowy tan, classic blue and white university striped oxford, old brown leather, rigid denim, and olive green waxcloth...a combination that reminds us to welcome the Fall.

Though I find myself less and less of a "jeans guy" with each passing year, I'm still a sucker for a good pair of brown shoes with grey socks and rolled dark denim. The pebble grains are a cinch.

p.s. more on Dungarees and being a grown-up later.

p.p.s. New stuff is available in the Shop.

Capturing a Rare Bird

2011-09-05T21:56:00.000-07:00

In thrift shopping, persistemce is everything. True, it can be a good way of keeping yourself in blue and white shirts, grey slacks and striped ties. But if you're lucky, without really trying, you might wind up bagging a truly rare bird.

My love of the classic university striped shirt is certainly no secret, and I have many, mostly in the standard blue and white. Finding one in the elusive shade of yellow once known as "Goldenrod" is a real treat.

Especially when it's an old one from the Brothers, likely late 1960s/early 1970s judging from this label, the much beloved long pointed, unlined collar,

and the six button front. All the details are right, and this one is actually in astoundingly good shape.

A rare bird indeed. But what I do is not taxidermy, and this one should see plenty of wear with navy blazers and tweed jackets as we head into Fall. $1.99 well spent.

p.s. the same expedition that netted this shirt also catured some other bits of finery. Look for them soon in the Shop, as soon as I resolve some minor technical difficulties on my end.

Neither Fish Nor Fowl: The Trouble with "Online Custom" Clothing

2011-09-03T21:42:00.000-07:00

I waited. I thought about ignoring it, but that's no way to deal with things. Besides, too many of you have been asking, and I need to get it off my chest. I wanted to be diplomatic, since "snark" is something I simply cannot abide, so I waited. I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused you. My "online custom" suit from Modern Tailor has been hanging in a closet in my house for nearly two weeks. I know you've been waiting for the results, the review, the send up, or whatever. Let's work backwards. The conclusion:

Online Custom Tailoring is Neither Fish nor Fowl

There are a lot of companies out there offering something they call online custom tailoring. As you may know, I was recently approached by Modern Tailor, one of these companies, who graciously offered to make me a suit. They were friendly folk and offered a level of customer service that is sadly lacking in so many places selling any number of things these days, and I remain impressed by that. I give them an "A" for effort. You can read about this in further detail here.

Then the suit arrived.

It came by post while I was out, and I got a ticket on my front door about it. The very next day, all a-twitter (that's how the word twitter is actually supposed to be used...oops, I forgot, I don't like snark) with excitement, I visited the post office. I picked up my package, took it home and opened the box. Much to my dismay, my decision about this suit was made the moment I touched it. Cheap fabric, mediocre construction, and styled like something that came from H&M. Still I wanted to be fair, so I tried it on.

The fit of this thing is nothing short of a disaster. The jacket is too tight, too short, and the button gorge is too high. The pants are almost indescribable: too tight in the seat, a few inches too short, skin tight in the thigh yet too full at the cuff. It's so bad, in fact, that I refuse to post photos of me wearing it. Clearly, given some of the photos I post here, I have very little problem with public embarrassment, but this goes too far. A cheap looking suit that fits terribly.

I had no expectation that this thing would fit like a real piece of custom tailoring, but I at least hoped it would fit close enough to bring in to my own tailor for a tweak. This suit is cut so badly that it will never fit, and the fabric is so cheap that I can't even be bothered. To be fair, I'll even take it on the chin about the fabric for not ordering swatches. Even if I had, this garment is hopeless.

So-Called online custom is neither fish nor fowl.

This is not custom clothing. Custom clothing is an expensive endeavor involving a personal relationship with an actual tailor. Someone who will measure you properly, discern what it is you want, perhaps talk you out of a dumb idea, and then painstakingly create something for you using the wisdom and skill only time can bring. It's expensive, and it should be, because it is an art form practiced well by a very select few people. This online thing leaves too much to the customer, there's too much room for error. There is no room for discussion and advice, let alone wisdom and skill.

This is not even good off the rack clothing. With off the rack clothing, you can do quite well if you only pay attention. You can learn to see quality and work with it. You can learn how to have something altered, and you can look great owning nothing but ready made clothes. With online custom, you get a one off piece of possibly questionable quality which may or may not ever fit you. It's a gamble, and I don't like gambling. For $500 dollars the average man could find a very nice suit in a store. For $500 I could find ten suits in a thrift store with money left over for the alterations. True, I may be presenting an extreme opposite example, but you catch my drift. I would be screaming mad if I paid half a grand for this thing.

If you want fish, see a fishmonger.

If you want chicken, it's frequently on sale for $1.99/lbs at the supermarket.

Get it?

Custom tailoring is a wonderful thing, but it cannot be faked. If that's what you want, buck up, pay the money and get it done right. I may be jealous of your ability to afford it, but I won't begrudge anyone good taste.

If custom clothing is well out of reach, buck up, make due with what you have, and remember that style doesn't care about money. It will require extra elbow grease, but any bum can dress well. Penury is not an excuse, remember?

Online tailoring is neither of these things, and it cheapens both. It proletarianizes custom tailoring to the point where it loses meaning, and it falsely elevates cheapness to the point where even that loses meaning.

Dammit, I may be ranting, but I think my point is clear.

I would like to thank Modern Tailor for their gracious gift.

Don't ever order a "custom suit" online.

Late Summer

2011-08-31T21:26:00.000-07:00

Many people lament the end of Summer, but I'm not one of them. Don't get me wrong, it's not that I don't enjoy ice cold rum drinks and trips to the beach as much as the next guy. In fact, such things rate among my favorites. But here in Boston, the locals tend to make a professional sport of complaining about the weather, regardless of what that weather may be....regardless also of the fact that said weather is both normal and expected in a given time of year. These same yahoos say things like "hot enough for ya?" in July and "snowin' enough for ya'?" in January. After our collective one night stand with Irene, I just don't want to hear it...and I had a tree collapse in my yard, remember?

Anyway, another reason I won't complain about the gradual end of Summer is vanity. I enjoy dressing, and it gets better in the Fall. One by one, old friends return to the fold. I have four identical blue university striped shirts, easily my favorites. I wear this pattern a lot, that's why I have four. But they're oxford, and more than a bit too heavy for Summer. Today marked the first reappearance. Paired with a no-name cotton knit tie, the spoils of thrift shopping in Maine, and a collar pin from the Andover Shop worn as tie pin, the look has one foot in Summer and one in Fall, a perfect bridge.

The same goes for brown tassel loafers and crisp khakis, my current favorite combination. Cotton socks in pale yellow pay a fitting homage to the fact that it is still August, as we cling to the last vestiges of the warm season.

Completed with a navy blazer and white pocket square, two of the few items which lie completely outside the intricacies of seasonal dressing, always appropriate.

How To Survive a Hurricane

2011-08-28T20:22:00.000-07:00

When Mother Nature comes to town all a-rantin' and a-ravin', and you're couped up inside all day with the windows shut tight, a little comfort food really hits the spot.

In times like these, I take solace in 1950s style old lady food, like some tuna melts with American cheese on white bread, grilled up on an old Mirro cast aluminum griddle that was a wedding present in 1948 to my father's aunt. A simple pleasure, but a real one, it helped us to forget, if only for a moment...

that an entire tree, and a big old one at that, was completely uprooted and fell into the back yard.

I wonder:

1) what does one wear to deal with such a mess?
2) can I find it for a buck at a thrift store?

Yikes.

Impressionable-ism

2011-08-26T20:59:00.000-07:00

Your humble author, August 2011

from "Clothes and the Man" by Alan Flusser, 1985

Dammit, I knew that outfit looked familiar, like I'd seen it somewhere before. Because I had.
You know all that stuff you hear about menswear and timelessness and how little things change and how the good stuff never really goes away? It's true.

Sometimes it's good to be impressionable, as long as you listen to the right people.

The Fade

2011-08-25T21:54:00.000-07:00

As we roll into late August and the inevitable Fall looms large, my wardrobe slowly experiences the end of Summer fade. True, the temps may still be hot and the humidity high, but it's time for brightly colored slacks in kelly green, Nantucket red, and all manner of patchwork to silently retire, along with the attendant bare ankles.

Crisp khakis, brown tassels and grey socks make a simple but striking combination. Paired with anything in navy or white above the waist, they provide a comfortable form of transition, a perfect bridge between Summer and Fall. They'll keep going with grey tweed all the way into November.

p.s. I got the suit. It's not all good. More soon when I collect my thoughts and find a way to put it tactfully.

p.p.s. New stuff in the shop. Last chance for seersucker.

Mark Your Calendar

2011-08-24T08:12:00.000-07:00

An Affordable Wardrobe

presents

the Fourth Semi-Annual

Top Shelf Flea Market

Sunday, 23 October 2011

Noon till 5p.m.

George Dilboy V.F.W. Post 529

371 Summer Street, Somerville, MA, 02144

stay tuned here and on our TSFM sister blog for more info

and plenty of shameless self promotion

So Far, So Good

2011-08-22T20:59:00.000-07:00

A few weeks back, I was contacted by Modern Tailor, one of the by now ubiquitous companies offering an online version of made-to-measure clothing at a fraction of what that used to cost. They offered to make me a suit, and asked that I review both the goods and the online order process here. I graciously accepted, and the suit is currently in transit. As for the order process and level of customer service, I have to say, so far, so good.

The website offers a large number of fabric choices, though many of them are variations of charcoal and navy. While it's true that the difficulty in choosing fabrics online lies in the fact that you can't actually see and touch them, and digital representations are not always what they seem, Modern Tailor does offer the option of sending a swatch book comprised of forty fabrics of your choosing for $25. That's not bad, given that if the first suit goes well you now have 39 other fabrics to choose from for your next go-around. In my case, I chose a mid-weight charcoal grey. Seems I may finally be outgrowing my rube tendency to order crazy stuff for it's own sake with online custom.

As with any online outfit like this, the measurements are your responsibility. This means that you the customer are being allowed to f*ck things up royally if you don't pay attention. Modern Tailor offers two options, each with a comprehensive guide. You can take body measurements, which I don't recommend unless you know someone who can take these accurately for you. Don't trust your wife/girlfriend. If you use this option, at least have a tailor put the tape to you. Alternatively, they have a guide for taking measurements from your own clothing. This is the option I chose. Using my best fitting trousers and best fitting blazer, I filled in the nearly two dozen measurements. I followed the guide, which is quite explicit, and tweaked a few things here and there using my own judgement. For example, I knocked 1/2 inch off the shoulder measurement of the blazer, given that the shoulders fit a hair large. But that's a trick best used sparingly. If you're not going to be honest about your measurements, why have something made in the first place? This is no place for empty pride.

I opted for flat front pants with cuffs, a single breasted two button coat with side vents and four button surgeon cuffs. I did ask for a few slightly eccentric details; open pockets, and brown buttons with brown stitching on the button holes. About a week later, I received an email from the production staff making sure this was correct, as black buttons are far more conventional on a grey suit, and containing photos of both the black and brown buttons available. After I explained that this was not meant to be a business suit and that I wanted it to have a slightly more casual air, to be worn with brown shoes, they replied that they understood and would proceed. A few days later I received a photo of one of the pockets, partially completed, to be sure this was what I wanted. I must say I was impressed with the individual attention I received, and the questions they asked made me feel that the people asking them knew what they were doing. True, they may have been giving me the royal treatment in hopes of a good review, but I can only hope that this level of attention is the same for all customers.

About two weeks later I was sent an email containing 18 photos of the completed suit (see above), with a measuring tape laid across it to ensure that details and measurements were correct before for shipping. I replied that all looked well, but asked whether they couldn't add a third button in my beloved 3/2 style. I received a prompt reply from the head of production saying that it could be done, but in his opinion it would spoil the overall look of the suit. Appreciating his honesty, I decided to trust his judgement and said to send the suit along.

The whole process from order to shipment took a pinch more than a month, and I'll likely have it later this week. Here's hoping the garment itself justifies my enthusiasm so far.

This whole online made to measure thing isn't real custom tailoring, not even close. There's no personal involvement with the person actually making the garment, and the fit and details can honestly only be tweaked so much from a pre-existing pattern. But it does have some advantages and perks, especially for an average guy with a bit of taste who really need some good, basic suits in his closet. The suit I bought, had I paid for it, would have cost $535 shipped. I got to add a few personal touches, and if all goes well, it will fit just how I like it. Just think of the piece of crap that same money would have bought at a place like H&M or Men's Wearhouse, never mind the headache and general icky feeling I'd get shopping there. Of course, the real decision will be made when the suit arrives, but I'm hopeful.

So far, so good.

Back in Town

2011-08-20T09:24:00.000-07:00

After a wonderful week spent on the coast in Maine, Mrs. G, the Boy, the Girl and I are back in town. Never one to miss an opportunity, I did of course visit a couple of the local thrift shops. Cheapskatery, you see, never takes a vacation.

Not surprisingly, every other piece of clothing I handled originated from L.L.Bean. A lot of it was nondescript new stuff made overseas, but I did find dome choice old pieces. Old Leon Leonwood still has quite a presence "Downeast".

Nothing like a good vacation to refresh the mind. Still, it's good to be home. Regularly scheduled yammering will resume on Monday. My take from the honey holes will be up for sale soon, as well.

Travel Kit

2011-08-12T20:09:00.000-07:00

Take one large Lands' End tote bag. The obnoxious kind, with the pretentious monogram...

...fill with...

Two pair shorts, in distinctly a distinctly New England feel (left: L.L.Bean, right: vintage '80s USA made Polo)

Two pair swim trunks (the cheap kind, discussed ad nauseam here)

Five tennis shirts; three white, two navy

Two long sleeve shirts, the comfortable, old, soft kind. The kind that not only don't require ironing, but actually look better without it. Coastal New England can get cool and breezy, even in August, and shirts like these function well as a light jacket worn untucked over the tennis shirts. Tucked in, you become almost presentable in a pinch, should you decide to dine at that particularly snooty fried clam joint one night.

Two pair long pants: one as "Go to Hell" as it gets (1960s vintage real madras), one simple khakis, dull as it gets (very old L.L.Bean...so soft)

One pair boat shoes, one pair tattered old Converse, retro-fitted with rawhide laces.

One striped ribbon belt, one old leather belt.

One cotton sweater in neutral cream. As I said, it can get chilly, especially at night

One goofy high tech waterproof pullover windbreaker thing, the kind that folds up into its own pocket. Nothing looks sillier in the rain than total unpreparedness. A good thing to keep in the car.

In case of total emergency, one pair low top Bean Boots, one (and only one) pair of socks. These will hopefully spend the entire trip in the trunk, but you never know when the wife and kids will feel the itch to spend the day doing something woodsy. Proper footwear, or something like it, is essential.

One cotton ball cap. If you don't know what that number 9 stands for, just keep it to yourself, or risk severe recrimination. (Yikes, this almost looks like a Summer collection fashion spread. Can you imagine how expensive this would all be if someone like Mark McNairy had his name sewn inside all this stuff? Frightening. I'm scaring myself.)

All of these clothes go with all of these clothes, which is a good trick to know when traveling. Any combination will do, and none of it requires much care. There's not a thing in the bunch that can't have the wrinkles knocked out of it with a couple of good shakes and a few minutes of wear. All of these clothes also go with:

Noticeably absent: blazer or ties. This is, after all, a casual, beach-centric family vacation. Despite what some of you may think, I'm not a total stiff.

Also noticeably absent: t-shirts. By now I'm sure you all know how I feel about grown men in t-shirts.

That'll do for the next few days. I'll check in next week with some tales from the North country.

AAW on Vacation

2011-08-11T22:25:00.000-07:00

An Affordable Wardrobe will be on vacation next week. This doesn't neccesarily mean no posts, but it does mean no self imposed obligations. I have put up a bunch of new items in the Shop to tide you over. Be advised that all orders placed between now and August 22nd will not ship until August 25th.