03 March 2011

All In The Details

A grey herringbone jacket, charcoal flannels and black knit tie is a combination that requires little thought, it will always work on any man, given that it is weather appropriate. But much like the combo of navy blazer, striped tie and grey flannels discussed here recently, the danger of drabness looms large. Once again, the difference is all in the details. Sit tight, this post will discuss quite a few.
An old skirt pin is used here as a tie clip, a fun and cool touch on a knit tie, if used sparingly.

The pin is thick, but won't damage a loose knit. I pierce the front of the tie, run the point through one of the shirts button holes (at a rakish tilt, of course) the back out through the tie.

Brown buttons (not black) in braided leather are an essential component in the character of a grey tweed jacket. Black would be drab, brown is just this side of unexpected.

The throat latch and rust colored square are small touches, but they go a long way. You don't necessarily need splashy colors to make a statement, if you remember that the strongest statements are made quietly.

Brown leather accessories (not black) pick up the thread. Double forward pleats, my new favorite tailoring detail, add interest to the most classic trousers, once again quietly.

Brown shoes and light grey socks carry things right down to the floor.

The duffel coat over a jacket and tie may be a bit unexpected, but the neutral shade of tan make it a slam dunk. Besides, it was cold today, and I've never had a warmer coat. The hood is a plus, keeping my ears warm at night without having to resort to ear muffs or a sock hat. Taken from a few feet back, the overall look is an understated study in the blending of neutrals, grey, tan, black and brown, with a whiff of blue in the university stripes of the shirt.

Though my first inclination was for my favorite crazy patch scarf, this plain one in charcoal merino wool is best. Despite what you may think, I do know when not to push it. Vintage brown tortoise shell Ray-Bans, brown leather gloves, an a brown corduroy cap emblazoned with pheasants all lend a hand. The red in the coat lining seals the deal.

The tie came new from Lands End, on a gift certificate. The socks came from the Gap, years ago. The rest is thrift shop gold.

A guy should know how (and when) to keep it classic. He should also know that this is by no means prohibitive of his personality or flair for style. Dress yourself in grey and brown, but shine right through. It's all in the details.

13 comments:

Anonymous said...

Nope to black tie...burgundy knit would be better, ditch the cap, white linen pocket square, mirror shine on the shoes

fred johnson said...

Love the foward pleated flannels..extremly hard to find these days at any price.

Giuseppe said...

Thanks, anonymous. My underwear were the wrong color, and I part my hair on the wrong side, too.

JKG said...

G:
We've got to get you to start taking your full-length shots with that window behind the camera, rather than behind you.

Great post.

those tricks said...

Negative Nancy commenters always seem to be anonymous. Stand by your words ya Nancy's. It's only a blog.
My comment is : hooray for brown buttons on black and white!

Roger said...

Those fat leather buttons look excellent. You must have felt really dapper today, and you looked it. Great ensemble.

Jho78 said...

This is the type of post that I feel helps me out the most as a beginner. Thanks.

John said...

I'm very happy with every aspect of the outfit, including the cap and the color of the tie.

Young Fogey said...

Nancy has a point: this outfit would have worked well, but in a different way, with a burgundy knit tie. Had I assembled it, it would have been a navy knit tie.

Still looks great.

Incidentally, you're channeling Fred Astaire twice: the pin for the tie bar, and the light-colored socks. Woulda been a trifecta had you worn dark brown suede shoes (my new pair get their debut tomorrow!).

Wayne Brokkens said...

Love the pocket square. Nice fold. Simple but refined. FYI saw some like that at PocketSquareZ com

JB said...

this is a killer outfit. Bravo Giuseppe.

Anonymous said...

giuseppe: this is kind of a random question, but do you know where atkinson's was? just found a used southwick jacket in cambridge with that clothier listed on the inside breast pocket. just wondering!

FIXED BAYONET METAL SOLDIERS said...

nice jacket. im getting a light grey chalkstripe made up , what style beppe?