6X2::6X1 (or, Numeric Codes for Clothing Nerds)

For a long time a good double breasted navy blazer was a desire needing fulfillment in the closet of An Affordable Wardrobe. Double breasted coats of all types are harder to get "right" than single breasted coats, as so much depends on the number and placement of the front buttons. Personally, I find a 6X2 or 4X1 front to be acceptable, though I loathe the 6X1 front so popular in the 1990s. Unless of course it's a 6X2 rolled to 6X1 model. Hardcore clothing nerds will read all that coded numerology with ease. For the rest of you, I will explain.

I recently picked this coat up with the intention of selling it. I really wasn't going to keep it. For one thing, I already had a good double breasted blazer acquired not too long ago, and for another, I don't really need any of these clothes, let alone more of them. In the end, however I couldn't help it. This one fits me too well, is cut from soft but hard wearing cloth, and is drenched in too many nerdy style details to pass up. Pure Polo Ralph Lauren at it's finest, made in USA, likely mid-90s. I remember this cut from back then. I always thought it was cool, but never owned it. Soft shoulders that extend just beyond the natural shoulder, adding a whiff of English "drape"; high cut dramatic 1930s style peaked lapels; side vents; a slightly shorter skirt; and the elusive 6X2/1 button stance.

Those lapels are cut like knives, sharp. Sure, they're wide, but the softness of the cloth keeps that all in check. Besides, I happen to be of the opinion that peaked lapels on a double breasted jacket are best served on the wide side anyway.

But it's the button stance that really does the trick. 6X2 means there are six buttons on the front of which 2 are functional, as seen here. 6X1 means only one is functional. It's a style that smacks of bad 90s, because it was bad and happened in the 90s. Dated, in a bad way. Then there is this cut, rolled to one button, but with two fully functional. Inside, there are two buttons as well, thereby actually allowing the coat to be worn in either position. Additionally, the top button hole is finished on the inside, much the same way the top hole should be finished on the 3/2 single breasted cut beloved by American traditionalists everywhere. Unfortunately, this cut has become nearly impossible to find, which is a shame. I find it to be elegant and nonchalant all at once. Which is kind of what we're all supposed to be shooting for with this whole menswear bag, isn't it?

At one time, this was something of a "house cut" for Polo Ralph Lauren. Here we see the man himself sporting what is likely the very same jacket I just bought. My Honda Civic, on the other hand, offers no comparison to his 1938 Bugatti. Bet his car isn't full of paper cups from Dunkin' Donuts and plastic bags from Market Basket either. But we do have the same jacket.

As with all things Ralph, it comes from somewhere else. People malign Ralph as a thief, but I see what he does a little differently. Jesse Thorn once referred to his work as an "abstraction" of what rich people wear, and that just about nails it. This kind of thing would be really awful, if it weren't for the fact that the good stuff is really good.

Double breasted coats worn this way were actually something of a (dare I say it) trend amongst wealthy Brits and the guys who dressed like them back in the 1930s. Here we see the original model as worn by the Duke of Windsor back then. (side note: I have no time for the Duke of Windsor. I know, he's a seen as this romantic hero who abdicated his throne for "love". But in truth, he's a rich white kid of dubious political leanings who shirked his eminent responsibilities in order to remain a spoiled rich white man-child forever. But I digress, he did have nice clothes. Frankly, I have more respect for Ralph.)

I've worn this jacket a dozen times in the three weeks I've had it, I like it that much. Action shots coming soon.

6X2::6X1 Catch it if you can.