Spring finally seems to have sprung up around my way, albeit with a lot of rain. Temps hit 70, but the sky remains grey and everything is wet. I'll take it.
The skies may be grey, but that's no reason not to introduce some fun and color into the daily routine. Quite the contrary, in fact. This cotton knit tie in pale yellow with blue and hunter green stripes, along with the gingham square, bring the old standby combo of navy blazer and blue oxford right up out of the doldrums.
It's seasonally appropriate without pushing it.
Lands' End Charter Collection was a dressier line that the company discontinued in 1986. I say we lobby hard for them to bring it back, so long as the quality is as good as this tie.
Pretentiousness is held in check with the slouchy addition of some well warn (and frayed) khakis and some comfy blucher moccasins. No socks.
Happy Springtime, American Northeast. It's good to have you back again.
28 April 2011
26 April 2011
New Life for Old Things: The Rough Repair
As you may have guessed, I like to keep stuff. I don't like to throw things away, and I will always consider a repair before a replacement. Sometimes this means paying for crafstmanship, as with a tailor or cobbler. Other times, it means giving up the ship and admitting defeat. Between these two concepts is the rough hewn, home made repair. This method is not for everything, but if used sparingly, I think it can have it's own kind of charm. To wit:
Remember those slippers so many of you hated so much when I got them? Tom's by way of Ralph Rugby and covered with skull and bones? Incorigible things, but I like them. They have served me well as house slippers. But, they're cloth, and they rip. In my case, at the edge of my baby toe on both sides. After wearing them like this for a month or more, I finally decided to patch the holes. You can take the man out of the punk band but you can't take the punk...well , you get the picture. A lot of what goes on in the land of punk rock may be kid stuff, but there is a certain aesthetic to it that I don't mind seeing every once in a while. Like an old friend who drinks too much, it's great in small doses.
The patches are cut from an old Andover Shop tie, a sacrilege to be sure, but that old bit of silk had long ago worn out it's usefulness as neckwear, and at least this way it gets a second spin. The yellow thread was of course chosen on purpose. Say and think what you will, but I find the idea of gourmet designer slippers with a moralistic twist bought second hand and repaired with old silk from a once luxurious necktie in a distinctly hard-edged fashion to be kind of, you know, badass. This whole blending of "punk" aesthetic with "preppy" aesthetic may be very Ralph Rugby, very shopping mall, I grant you, The difference lies in doing it by hand, yourself, to your own things...That, and not doing it all the time. I'll probably continue to patch them in a similar way for another year. For a while, they'll only get better, and I'll have a use for some of those ripped and stained ties I can't seem to part with. They'll continue to be my house slippers, where I can enjoy them without inflicting the sight of them on any innocents. Then, one day, they'll die, and you can all breath a collective sigh of relief and pray that I spring for some of those poncy velvet things that seem to be all the rage these days.
p.s. If I haven't lost you completely, as I may well have with this post, feel free to peruse the newest Spring/Summer offerings available in the shop.
Remember those slippers so many of you hated so much when I got them? Tom's by way of Ralph Rugby and covered with skull and bones? Incorigible things, but I like them. They have served me well as house slippers. But, they're cloth, and they rip. In my case, at the edge of my baby toe on both sides. After wearing them like this for a month or more, I finally decided to patch the holes. You can take the man out of the punk band but you can't take the punk...well , you get the picture. A lot of what goes on in the land of punk rock may be kid stuff, but there is a certain aesthetic to it that I don't mind seeing every once in a while. Like an old friend who drinks too much, it's great in small doses.
The patches are cut from an old Andover Shop tie, a sacrilege to be sure, but that old bit of silk had long ago worn out it's usefulness as neckwear, and at least this way it gets a second spin. The yellow thread was of course chosen on purpose. Say and think what you will, but I find the idea of gourmet designer slippers with a moralistic twist bought second hand and repaired with old silk from a once luxurious necktie in a distinctly hard-edged fashion to be kind of, you know, badass. This whole blending of "punk" aesthetic with "preppy" aesthetic may be very Ralph Rugby, very shopping mall, I grant you, The difference lies in doing it by hand, yourself, to your own things...That, and not doing it all the time. I'll probably continue to patch them in a similar way for another year. For a while, they'll only get better, and I'll have a use for some of those ripped and stained ties I can't seem to part with. They'll continue to be my house slippers, where I can enjoy them without inflicting the sight of them on any innocents. Then, one day, they'll die, and you can all breath a collective sigh of relief and pray that I spring for some of those poncy velvet things that seem to be all the rage these days.
p.s. If I haven't lost you completely, as I may well have with this post, feel free to peruse the newest Spring/Summer offerings available in the shop.
23 April 2011
Happy Holy Saturday
Pink, green and a soft yellowy cream. A muted pastel pallette for a grey and dreary Holy Saturday. Charcoal wortsed slacks, argyle socks and tassel loafers compete this casual look. Who ever said dressing like Easter eggs needed to be silly?
21 April 2011
A Double (Breasted) Shot of Sunshine, Please
Boy has it been grey and dreary around here these past few day. That hasn't stopped me from changing over the closet though. As I look forward to the full blast warmer months, I picked up this new find at the cleaners today:
Lately, uncharacteristically, I'm really digging on the idea of the "just right" double breasted jacket. This one here is the perfect conglomerate, taking elements I don't usually care for and combining them with those I do...kinda seamlessly. The trouble I often have with double breasted jackets is the built up shoulder, but this piece has natural shoulders, even if it is darted.
Swelled edges, a very Traditional touch, yet the lapels are fairly wide. That's all well and good, if you ask me. Narrow lapels on a double breasted jacket are an aberration, anyway, the proportions never seem to work. All those buttons require a bit more heft up top for balance. The cloth is likely a cotton/linen/synthetic blend, tres 1960s, with little flecks of white to play up the "linen"ness of it. Of course, wrinkles would play that up even better, but I'll give this one a pass for quality of construction, cut and a perfect shade of khaki.
True, this guy is in Milan, an his jacket more than likely does not consist of partly synthetic cloth, and that open patch ticket pocket is hard to beat, and his jacket probably cost more than most of my clothes combined,(mine was $4.99) but the concept is largely the same. (Minus a few points for the old watch-over-shirt-cuff-trick. I thought that was silly, even on the great Agnelli. Leave it to the Italians to always be at least one step overdone, myself included)
I think it's about time for a well cut double breasted jacket to make an occasional comeback. Like forward pleats, the fashion industry has been vilifying them for long enough now that they're bound to start speaking the opposite anytime now. I might be ahead of the pack with this one, not that I tend to care much for the pack and what they think. My fear is that creased jeans are the next big thing too, maybe this Fall. I won't be jumping on that one, even if I did call it.
In any case, think about giving a double breasted jacket a try. One or two in the closet is just enough to provide a shot of interest that ups your whole wardrobe.
Lately, uncharacteristically, I'm really digging on the idea of the "just right" double breasted jacket. This one here is the perfect conglomerate, taking elements I don't usually care for and combining them with those I do...kinda seamlessly. The trouble I often have with double breasted jackets is the built up shoulder, but this piece has natural shoulders, even if it is darted.
Swelled edges, a very Traditional touch, yet the lapels are fairly wide. That's all well and good, if you ask me. Narrow lapels on a double breasted jacket are an aberration, anyway, the proportions never seem to work. All those buttons require a bit more heft up top for balance. The cloth is likely a cotton/linen/synthetic blend, tres 1960s, with little flecks of white to play up the "linen"ness of it. Of course, wrinkles would play that up even better, but I'll give this one a pass for quality of construction, cut and a perfect shade of khaki.
The two button cuff, so quintessential on our beloved 3/2 undarted jacket is a pinch unexpected here, but I'll take it. It's even got a center vent, and being from the 1960s, is cut a hair on the shorter side, which surprisingly gives it a fresher, more modern feel.
A "Madisonaire" by Varsity Town...sounds pretty fancy.I'm supposing that the "Madisonaire" label and the double breasted cut would suggest that this coat was meant for the city, a bit more urbane, as opposed to something like a tweed sack, which would be strictly campus casual. I couldn't find much on the Varsity Town brand, shy of this old ad, but they do seem like my kind of manufacturer. The Ivy League nuts must love that label. Incidentally, with "Ivy" clothes being something of a rage right now, I think someone should release a line called "College", and sell nothing but blazers and striped ties. There's a gold mine there. The kids love that stuff.
This jacket will be the kill with tropical worsted flat fronts in charcoal grey, white shirt,maybe even with (gasp!) a button down collar, black knit tie and brown suede shoes, light colored socks and a straw hat for good measure. Mark my words, kinda like this guy:
photo: the Sartorialist
True, this guy is in Milan, an his jacket more than likely does not consist of partly synthetic cloth, and that open patch ticket pocket is hard to beat, and his jacket probably cost more than most of my clothes combined,(mine was $4.99) but the concept is largely the same. (Minus a few points for the old watch-over-shirt-cuff-trick. I thought that was silly, even on the great Agnelli. Leave it to the Italians to always be at least one step overdone, myself included)
I think it's about time for a well cut double breasted jacket to make an occasional comeback. Like forward pleats, the fashion industry has been vilifying them for long enough now that they're bound to start speaking the opposite anytime now. I might be ahead of the pack with this one, not that I tend to care much for the pack and what they think. My fear is that creased jeans are the next big thing too, maybe this Fall. I won't be jumping on that one, even if I did call it.
In any case, think about giving a double breasted jacket a try. One or two in the closet is just enough to provide a shot of interest that ups your whole wardrobe.
Labels:
Double Breasted,
Summer Clothes,
Varsit Town,
Vintage
17 April 2011
Bidding In Reverse
The bidding will start at $125, do I hear $125? I have $82.99 in the back, $82.99, Do I have $70? $70, on the phone. Yes, $61.99, gentleman on the isle. Do I hear $55? $6.99, crazy fellow dressed head to toe in old stuff that he went to terrible trouble in chaotic and dirty thrift shops to acquire. Going once, going twice...sold for $6.99 to the crazy fellow. Congratulations, sir.
Crispy khakis, cut like fine dress pants, made of luxurious Italian fabric, the perfect shade of khaki with just a whiff of sheen about them. Unfinished hems. Made in Korea, but you know what? My trusted tailor is also from Korea. I'll keep these on a hanger, my "good khakis" for when I need (or want) to look especially crispy. (Just not at a funeral).
p.s. In reference to this post, best spam comment so far:
I in items value graciously your masterly approach. These are pieces of damned fit tidings that transference be of thoroughgoing ingest bound than of me in following
Brilliant
Crispy khakis, cut like fine dress pants, made of luxurious Italian fabric, the perfect shade of khaki with just a whiff of sheen about them. Unfinished hems. Made in Korea, but you know what? My trusted tailor is also from Korea. I'll keep these on a hanger, my "good khakis" for when I need (or want) to look especially crispy. (Just not at a funeral).
p.s. In reference to this post, best spam comment so far:
I in items value graciously your masterly approach. These are pieces of damned fit tidings that transference be of thoroughgoing ingest bound than of me in following
Brilliant
15 April 2011
Farewell, Old Friend. We Hardly Knew Ya'
One of the inviolable rules, if not the the only one, of being stylish is to wear clothing that fits. Don't wear the size you want, or the size you think you are, or wish you were, or whatever. Wear the clothes that fit.
One of the nice things about aging is caring less and less about dumb sh*t like wearing skinny clothes. And so, it is with no small amount of sadness that I must offer a personal favorite for sale in The Shop (along with a number of other new items):
One of the nice things about aging is caring less and less about dumb sh*t like wearing skinny clothes. And so, it is with no small amount of sadness that I must offer a personal favorite for sale in The Shop (along with a number of other new items):
I've wanted a hunter green blazer for as long as I can remember. When I finally came across this number in doeskin by Brooks Brothers, I was thrilled. I had it cleaned and let out. I wore it a handful of times. I tried like Hell to convince myself it fit. The shoulders barely made it and I could button it pretty good if I held my breath. As a result, I rarely wore it. When I did, it was to great effect with certain combinations, but only in pictures. In real life, I must admit, it was always too small. It never looked good on me, and I always knew it.
I wear a size 42 jacket. It's been a long time since I wore a 40. It's more than likely I'll never wear that size again. I could keep this jacket hanging unworn in my closet, wishing it fit me. But that would be a crime. Someone ought to be wearing this thing to death. And so, it's time for this old friend that never was to be set free of the fold. Please, one of you, give it the loving home it deserves.
14 April 2011
Last of the Season / First of the Season
Another warm day/cool night combo brings on yet another sartorial combination of dual personality. This time, a unifying theme brings seemingly disparate items together. Minor details deriving from equestrian traditions are found throughout.
Button down collars derive originally from the sport of polo. (Lands' End Original Oxford, $14.99 on sale). The throat latch on my mid-weight grey herringbone is another small equestrian touch. (Tweed jacket by Cricketeer, made in USA, $6.99. Hey, wait a minute, wasn't I wearing a version of this a year ago?). An English made regimental tie in thick silk from The Andover Shop ($1.00) and a pale pink square finish the look. All in all, a fine example of the concept of basics discussed yesterday. I do love that tweed jacket, and it's given me a lot of mileage. However, I am more than ready to put it aside by now.
A recently acquired pair of cream colored pants in soft, heavy weight cotton drill (Polo, $3.99) are bring a touch of Spring to the outfit, in an unexpected but understated way. Or maybe I'm kidding myself. Seriously, cream pants and tweed? They also feature "top pockets" (pockets like jeans have), clearly a detail with roots in the days of mounted military. A surcingle belt, in Black Watch ribbon on cream with a brown leather closure, follows suit. A hoof pick belt in brown would have been better. One of these days...
Chukka boots may not be a strictly equestrian touch, but this pair in dark green suede (Clark's, made in England, $7.99) continue the overall English countryside vibe and add interest without being (too) pushy. Brown paddock boots would have killed it to death, but I don't have any (yet). Classic pieces all, in a generally time tested combination, with just enough tweaks to make it interesting. The final touch is provided by a flat cap in khaki cotton and aviator sunglasses. A bit late 1980s perhaps, but I have been re-reading Flusser lately. Forgive me.
Also making their first appearance of the season, like crocuses (or, croci) , were my pasty white bare ankles, flashing between the cuff of my jeans and Bean blucher moccasins.
"Transitional" dressing is almost always tricky, but that's what makes it so much fun. Happy Spring.
p.s. speaking of "Last of the Season", many items are now on sale in the shop. Peruse.
Button down collars derive originally from the sport of polo. (Lands' End Original Oxford, $14.99 on sale). The throat latch on my mid-weight grey herringbone is another small equestrian touch. (Tweed jacket by Cricketeer, made in USA, $6.99. Hey, wait a minute, wasn't I wearing a version of this a year ago?). An English made regimental tie in thick silk from The Andover Shop ($1.00) and a pale pink square finish the look. All in all, a fine example of the concept of basics discussed yesterday. I do love that tweed jacket, and it's given me a lot of mileage. However, I am more than ready to put it aside by now.
A recently acquired pair of cream colored pants in soft, heavy weight cotton drill (Polo, $3.99) are bring a touch of Spring to the outfit, in an unexpected but understated way. Or maybe I'm kidding myself. Seriously, cream pants and tweed? They also feature "top pockets" (pockets like jeans have), clearly a detail with roots in the days of mounted military. A surcingle belt, in Black Watch ribbon on cream with a brown leather closure, follows suit. A hoof pick belt in brown would have been better. One of these days...
Chukka boots may not be a strictly equestrian touch, but this pair in dark green suede (Clark's, made in England, $7.99) continue the overall English countryside vibe and add interest without being (too) pushy. Brown paddock boots would have killed it to death, but I don't have any (yet). Classic pieces all, in a generally time tested combination, with just enough tweaks to make it interesting. The final touch is provided by a flat cap in khaki cotton and aviator sunglasses. A bit late 1980s perhaps, but I have been re-reading Flusser lately. Forgive me.
Also making their first appearance of the season, like crocuses (or, croci) , were my pasty white bare ankles, flashing between the cuff of my jeans and Bean blucher moccasins.
"Transitional" dressing is almost always tricky, but that's what makes it so much fun. Happy Spring.
p.s. speaking of "Last of the Season", many items are now on sale in the shop. Peruse.
13 April 2011
Covering the Basics
Writing a blog that is ostensibly about clothing, it can be easy after a time so slip into outlandish subject matter. I know I'm far from innocent of this. Let's for a moment take a step back and cover the basics. Though I may own more than my fair share of bold jackets and pants so colorful as to border on the downright silly, there are some things which are essential.
A blue button down oxford shirt (in this case Ralph Lauren, $2.99), a simple 3 inch wide bar stripe tie (Talbot's, $1.00) and a lightly starched pair of classic flat front khakis (L.L.Bean, $5.49) is a combination that's hard to beat, at least in the United States. And the versatility of these items, whether as a combination or separately, is endless.
If you're like me, and you enjoy dressing well, but your life far from requires it, this whole combination makes a great complete outfit any day. You'll feel dressed, but also comfortable, and really, this is pretty casual stuff. For a crisp look finish with penny loafers and a brown leather belt. Or turn things down a notch with a ribbon belt and Blucher moccasins (as I did today). On a chilly day, a cotton or wool v-neck, cardigan or cable knit sweater in navy, cream or even hunter green provides warmth, looks finished, and doesn't overdo things too much. I opted for a cream cotton cable knit, myself.
Should you require a dressier look, just put on a single breasted navy blazer with brass buttons. In Winter, a herringbone tweed in grey or brown works just as well. Dressier still, simply swap the khakis for charcoal grey slacks in flannel or worsted.
If you require a fully comfortable look, just ditch the tie...or keep the tie and wear jeans...or wear the whole rig with no socks and boat shoes. Throw a Barbour over the whole thing, or if you're young and hip, a jean jacket. Swap in a knit tie or a bow tie sometimes, or some argyle or brightly colored socks. Don't iron any of it, put your bare foot in some natural canvas sneakers, don a ball cap and head to the seaside for an ice cream. Wear the shirt, starched and pressed, with the tie under a navy suit to a job interview. The list goes on and on. Just don't wear it to a funeral.
I get a lot of emails from guys looking to up the ante on the way they dress, who have little money and feel, rightly so, exasperated by the daunting task of building a proper wardrobe. It's a plight I understand completely, being eternally broke myself. A guy doesn't really need a lot of clothes, just the right clothes, at least at first. Once you get bitten by the bug and have your basics covered, then you can fill your closet with fopperies. But a guy could do worse than owning a bunch of good khakis, blue, white, and blue and white striped shirts, quality basic ties, and shiny brown shoes. Throw in a navy blazer, a good dark suit, some sweaters and one really nice piece of tweed and you're well on the way. Once you become comfortable with these basics and the way they work for you, the rest has a way of falling into place.
And yeah, it's all been said before by better men than me repeatedly for more than half a century now, There's a good reason for that, you know.
A blue button down oxford shirt (in this case Ralph Lauren, $2.99), a simple 3 inch wide bar stripe tie (Talbot's, $1.00) and a lightly starched pair of classic flat front khakis (L.L.Bean, $5.49) is a combination that's hard to beat, at least in the United States. And the versatility of these items, whether as a combination or separately, is endless.
If you're like me, and you enjoy dressing well, but your life far from requires it, this whole combination makes a great complete outfit any day. You'll feel dressed, but also comfortable, and really, this is pretty casual stuff. For a crisp look finish with penny loafers and a brown leather belt. Or turn things down a notch with a ribbon belt and Blucher moccasins (as I did today). On a chilly day, a cotton or wool v-neck, cardigan or cable knit sweater in navy, cream or even hunter green provides warmth, looks finished, and doesn't overdo things too much. I opted for a cream cotton cable knit, myself.
Should you require a dressier look, just put on a single breasted navy blazer with brass buttons. In Winter, a herringbone tweed in grey or brown works just as well. Dressier still, simply swap the khakis for charcoal grey slacks in flannel or worsted.
If you require a fully comfortable look, just ditch the tie...or keep the tie and wear jeans...or wear the whole rig with no socks and boat shoes. Throw a Barbour over the whole thing, or if you're young and hip, a jean jacket. Swap in a knit tie or a bow tie sometimes, or some argyle or brightly colored socks. Don't iron any of it, put your bare foot in some natural canvas sneakers, don a ball cap and head to the seaside for an ice cream. Wear the shirt, starched and pressed, with the tie under a navy suit to a job interview. The list goes on and on. Just don't wear it to a funeral.
I get a lot of emails from guys looking to up the ante on the way they dress, who have little money and feel, rightly so, exasperated by the daunting task of building a proper wardrobe. It's a plight I understand completely, being eternally broke myself. A guy doesn't really need a lot of clothes, just the right clothes, at least at first. Once you get bitten by the bug and have your basics covered, then you can fill your closet with fopperies. But a guy could do worse than owning a bunch of good khakis, blue, white, and blue and white striped shirts, quality basic ties, and shiny brown shoes. Throw in a navy blazer, a good dark suit, some sweaters and one really nice piece of tweed and you're well on the way. Once you become comfortable with these basics and the way they work for you, the rest has a way of falling into place.
And yeah, it's all been said before by better men than me repeatedly for more than half a century now, There's a good reason for that, you know.
11 April 2011
All Due Respect
There's a funeral home not far from my house. I pass by it frequently, and being the clothing snob that I am I constantly find myself sizing up the outfits people see fit to wear to the moment of final respect these days. Recently, I saw a skinny young fellow, perhaps 18 years old, heading into the home dressed something like this:
photo knicked from the internet
The kid I saw was skinny, and tall, and lanky. He wore a black suit with a white shirt and a black tie. His suit was at least four sizes too big. The shoulders of the jacket over hung his own shoulders by several inches, and the sleeves all but covered his hands. The pants were at least six inches too long, puddling at the ankles in large folds. His shirt collar hung far enough away from his neck too fit your whole hand in the gap. Of course, my gut reaction was one of abject disdain and criticism...until I gave it a moments thought.
The internet in general and sites like mine in particular have a way of bringing together the wide diaspora of men out there who still give a damn about dressing well, for better or worse. The fortunate side effect of this is that we find an accidental community of like minded people to discuss our mutual interest with. The unfortunate side effect is that this can lead to a tendency to be overly cantankerous and curmudgeonly. Traits like this can be quaint and endearing in small doses, but they easily get out of hand. Unchecked, they are qualities attractive to no one.
I'm going to go ahead and not only cut our skinny young friend some slack, but outright applaud his efforts. He did, after all, wear a black suit and tie to a funeral, a rare enough thing and a clear sign of respect for the gravity of the occasion at hand. Most of his older couterparts who I observed that day afforded the deceased enough respect to tuck thier shirt (neck open, sleeves rolled back) into their "good" khakis. I'd venture to guess that if it weren't for their wives, many of these men's clothes wouldn't even have been pressed. And here's this kid in a black suit, you know, like he's going to a funeral or something. Bravo, I say. Let's just hope someone comes into his life to help guide him down the right path, one he may have taken a tenative step down, someone to help him tune things up a bit. Maybe his dad can step in, maybe he'll find advice on the internet. Either way, take it how you can get it these days.
The old crumbs, myself included, like to go on ad nauseam about the things we've lost in our culture, yet we can be very reluctant to look for glimmers of hope. You should see the way the old dudes scare a young guy out of the J. Press store in Harvard Square, all the while complaining about how they're not selling anything these days, how the old customers are dropping one by one. We simply can't have it both ways. Guys like our young friend ought to be encouraged, not chastised.The same goes for twenty something "preppies" who shop at J. Crew and kids who are way into Polo. They want to do it, it turns them on, but like all kids, they just don't really know what they're talking about. Until someone tells them , that is. They've already partaken of the gateway drug. It's up to the rest of us to show them clean, uncut, snow white good stuff.
The old crumbs, myself included, like to go on ad nauseam about the things we've lost in our culture, yet we can be very reluctant to look for glimmers of hope. You should see the way the old dudes scare a young guy out of the J. Press store in Harvard Square, all the while complaining about how they're not selling anything these days, how the old customers are dropping one by one. We simply can't have it both ways. Guys like our young friend ought to be encouraged, not chastised.The same goes for twenty something "preppies" who shop at J. Crew and kids who are way into Polo. They want to do it, it turns them on, but like all kids, they just don't really know what they're talking about. Until someone tells them , that is. They've already partaken of the gateway drug. It's up to the rest of us to show them clean, uncut, snow white good stuff.
09 April 2011
Last of the Season/First of the Season
A warm day followed by a chilly night, as I sit on the fence about whether to stash the heavy togs and pull out the lightweights. In the past, I've been known to jump the gun, and I wind up with a closet full of seersucker while I go digging around to pull out the wool I find I still need. September will no doubt find me digging out tennis shirts while I ignore the tweed I've prematurely filled my rotation with. This year, I've decided instead to give it my best shot at the schizo combinations of warm and cold weather gear. We'll see how this works out. Good thing I'm not afraid of outlandishness and an incurable attention hog.
This tartan wool jacket, worn sparingly to begin with, was given it's last run of the season. The generous gift of a long distance friend with less of a proclivity for that much big plaid at once, it hails from a tailor shop in London. The last time I wore it was on Christmas Eve with a thick white turtleneck sweater and some heavy flannels. Plaid jackets aren't for everyone, and I could give sound advice by telling you that the trick is to keep the rest of your outfit subdued. Of course, I opted instead to pair it with three other patterns. Mock me if you will, but the beauty of dressing for your own sake and not out of requirement is the freedom to do this sort of thing if the mood strikes you. Perhaps it would be best if the mood struck me less, but, what are you gonna do? Never mind, we aren't likely to see this jacket again for a good six months.
Seeing their first run of the season is this pair of gabardine pants by Ralph Purple Label. Gabardine, traditionally a warm weather fabric, with wool tartan.Talk about schizo. To boot, not only are the pants pleated with side tabs, but the jacket has structured shoulders, darts and side vents...all paired with a button Brooks Brothers shirt and tassel loafers. Egads, will the affronts never end?!?
To make matters worse, it's even got brass buttons. I'll agree the that realm of brass buttoned blazers is best left to navy blue, and occasionally hunter green...and even less occasionally to giant tartan.
Oh, and remember those pink socks I was so proud to have eschewed in the name of good taste only a few days ago? Here, they drive the final nail deep in the sartorial coffin. Never half step, 'cause I'm not a half stepper. If you're gonna get crazy. best play it to the hilt.
This tartan wool jacket, worn sparingly to begin with, was given it's last run of the season. The generous gift of a long distance friend with less of a proclivity for that much big plaid at once, it hails from a tailor shop in London. The last time I wore it was on Christmas Eve with a thick white turtleneck sweater and some heavy flannels. Plaid jackets aren't for everyone, and I could give sound advice by telling you that the trick is to keep the rest of your outfit subdued. Of course, I opted instead to pair it with three other patterns. Mock me if you will, but the beauty of dressing for your own sake and not out of requirement is the freedom to do this sort of thing if the mood strikes you. Perhaps it would be best if the mood struck me less, but, what are you gonna do? Never mind, we aren't likely to see this jacket again for a good six months.
Seeing their first run of the season is this pair of gabardine pants by Ralph Purple Label. Gabardine, traditionally a warm weather fabric, with wool tartan.Talk about schizo. To boot, not only are the pants pleated with side tabs, but the jacket has structured shoulders, darts and side vents...all paired with a button Brooks Brothers shirt and tassel loafers. Egads, will the affronts never end?!?
To make matters worse, it's even got brass buttons. I'll agree the that realm of brass buttoned blazers is best left to navy blue, and occasionally hunter green...and even less occasionally to giant tartan.
Oh, and remember those pink socks I was so proud to have eschewed in the name of good taste only a few days ago? Here, they drive the final nail deep in the sartorial coffin. Never half step, 'cause I'm not a half stepper. If you're gonna get crazy. best play it to the hilt.
07 April 2011
Spring Fever
It gets sunny..it almost gets warm, warm enough anyway that you can pretend its warm...or at least delve into the bright colors of the season you wish it was.
This combo of Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece navy blazer ($5.99), vintage Brooks Brothers pink stripes shirt (couple of bucks) and bright green silk knit tie for the Andover Shop ($1.99) tend to be my favorite way to coax the Spring fever out of people.
The "tie tuck" is a ridiculous affectation, but worth a shot now and then. This tie is just long enough to do it.
Charcoal worsted vintage slacks ($4.99) and brown suede Ferragamo loafers ($5.99). I pulled out the lavender socks, and the yellow ones, and the pink ones, but in the end opted for quiet grey. Even I know when to keep it down sometimes. (speaking of grey worsted slacks, a ton of them just went up in the shop, along with neckties, suits and jackets. Check it out, so ends the shameless plug.)
The tweed caps are displaced by cotton khaki for the first time today, though this off white cotton cable knit from Italy ($3.99) is on hand for sundown when the temperature drops, to keep me warm without revoking my insistence that it finally be Spring.
Brighten up, but stay warm. Tennis shirts and madras are on the way.
This combo of Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece navy blazer ($5.99), vintage Brooks Brothers pink stripes shirt (couple of bucks) and bright green silk knit tie for the Andover Shop ($1.99) tend to be my favorite way to coax the Spring fever out of people.
The "tie tuck" is a ridiculous affectation, but worth a shot now and then. This tie is just long enough to do it.
Charcoal worsted vintage slacks ($4.99) and brown suede Ferragamo loafers ($5.99). I pulled out the lavender socks, and the yellow ones, and the pink ones, but in the end opted for quiet grey. Even I know when to keep it down sometimes. (speaking of grey worsted slacks, a ton of them just went up in the shop, along with neckties, suits and jackets. Check it out, so ends the shameless plug.)
The tweed caps are displaced by cotton khaki for the first time today, though this off white cotton cable knit from Italy ($3.99) is on hand for sundown when the temperature drops, to keep me warm without revoking my insistence that it finally be Spring.
Brighten up, but stay warm. Tennis shirts and madras are on the way.
06 April 2011
Top Shelf Flea Market III (the roster)
The roster for the upcoming third semi-annual Top Shelf Flea Market is now set. We've got a good crop of returning favorites, plus a nice handful of newcomers to welcome aboard. It is my distinct pleasure to announce them here.
Artifaktori Vintage
Amy and Amanda of the Artifaktori vintage shop were two of my earliest boosters in the original Top Shelf Flea. They were on hand the first time out, and are returning for a third time. A great source for the ladies among you to stock up on stunning vintage that you didn't even know you liked.
Newton Street Vintage
Our man Zach is also returning for a third round. Since the last Top Shelf in October. he has launched his online shop. Check it out for an example of what you might find at his booth. Friendly and sharp as a tack, he's a great source of sartorial knowledge, as well as a good place to look for the elusive un-darted, hooked vent jacket so many of us revere.
The Red Velvet Shoe
Michelle is as nice a lady as you're likely to meet, with an impeccable vintage style and a great eye for what you need. The best in ladies vintage, with plenty of household chochkies to boot.
Carmen and Ginger
I tend to think of Christine of Carmen and Ginger and Michelle as something of a tag team. Both hailing from the Providence area, I was pleasantly surprised when they contacted me first time out. Christine's got some funky stuff, but it's the coolest, and all top quality. Something for everyone at her booth for sure.
NimCo Vintage Housewares
Good friend Nimco was a Top Shelf original, though she took a pass last time out. We're glad to have her back. Rest assured, any of you would kill to have her decorate so much as a corner of your house. Vintage enamelled cast iron cookery and other kitchen goods are a specialty...she's got more that all of France and Sweden combined.
Swamp Rabbit Books
First editions? Signed copies? Out of print oddities you never thought you'd find? No sweat for our man James. Bookworms, bring your cash.
Gypsy
Ruth and her friends have a passion for fashion...on the cheap...and they just love to pop up at events such as these. Visit their booth for a wide array of ladies designer clothing at a fraction of a fraction of the cost.
A&J Outfitters
Alexi is a guy I know who used to work in the local bike shop. Jason runs the outdoorsy blog eggs & wool...and also holds court at the venerable Hilton's Tent City in Boston. Between the two of them, they've got a lot of bike stuff, and camping stuff, and cool stuff. Some of it old, some of it not, all of it worthy.
Fredricka
Muriel of Fredricka calls her collection "eclectic". I call it impressive. Beautiful things for your home from bygone eras. Her stuff is legitimately antique. "None of that new stuff from the 60s" as she says. Lamps and light fixtures, milk glass, kitchen wares, handmade toys....the list goes on and on.
Bobby from Boston
When Bobby opted in for the first Flea, I was aghast. When he came for round two, I was floored. When he wanted in as a regular...I patted myself on the back. Bobby is the stuff of legend in the world of vintage menswear. Visit his miniature museum, close your eyes, and buy whatever your hand falls on. You simply can't miss.
An Affordable Wardrobe
Of course, yours truly will be there. Remember, this whole Top Shelf Flea thing started as a cockamamie idea to sell my own crap. I'm humbled by your attendance in the past, and I look forward to seeing many of you again this time.
Top Shelf Flea Market III
Sunday 22 May 2011
Noon till 6 p.m.
George Dilboy V.F.W. Post 529
371 Summer Street
Davis Square, Somerville, MA 02144
04 April 2011
The Jams
April kicks off, and I've been off the radar for a few days...catching up on some sleep. Let's begin this month with an installment of "The Jams", featuring Eric Dolphy's "Out There", recently acquired on a brief stint in New York.
Seen here is the original cover art from it's release in 1960, certainly out there for the time.
Mine is a re-issue from 1969, though still on the Prestige label. Perhaps a bit more aesthetically in line with the look of jazz records, but no matter, still the same jams, and still listenable by way of needle and wood. Worth every bit of the ten dollars I paid for it at Westsider Records, a dusty place that was someones apartment once upon a million years ago... my favorite kind of place.
I can remember the first time I heard this record straight through. I already knew Eric Dolphy by way of his work with Charles Mingus mostly. WHRB, the Harvard radio station, has a show called The Jazz Spectrum, from 5:00 a.m. till 1:00 p.m. every morning. Mostly, it's a great way to hear great jazz without having to pick, so long as the d.j. is good, which they frequently are. The station is also famous for it's "orgies"...marathon sessions of one artists work, often lasting for more than a day at a stretch...Killer.
When the boy was but two, I would drive him three times a week to my mother-law's place before heading to work myself. On a good day, the drive was at least 40 minutes on the highway, on a bad day, forget it. On one such bad day, however, old HRB was running an Eric Dolphy orgy, and I heard this whole slab, on vinyl at that. I could here Harvard's old copy crackling over the speakers of the car radio.
Anyway, it killed me than and I was immediately placed on a mission to find it. Many of you will say that a mere ten minutes on the internet that very day would have landed this in my hands, and I guess you'd be right, but my beliefs on the subject of musical reproduction have been documented before, and I don't like to cheat or compromise when it comes to this kind of (important) stuff.
Then one day I find myself in New York for the J. Press toss-off sale, and Tin Tin sees fit to take me to Westsider, and I find it, and I'm thrilled, so much so that I no longer care if I score a damn thing at J. Press. I've got my gripes with New York, but the ability to turn up superb jazz vinyl at great prices is not one of them. That was a week and a half ago. I've listened to it a dozen times since then...I'm listening to it now.
In it's time, this record, and Dolphy in general for that matter, was extremely cutting edge, the very definition of the Jazz avante garde. It's kind of free jazz, but it's clearly structured, too. The instrumentation is a pinch unorthodox, with Dolphy playing sax, clarinet, flute and bass clarinet..you know, like he does, George Duvivier on bass, Roy Haynes on drums, and Ron Carter, known to be a bassist, on cello. What strikes me most is he way that the music just seems to roll out of these guys. There's kind of a melody, then kind of a bunch of solos, then kind of melody again...it rolls right through. There's an up tempo number underpinned by walking bass and peppy brush work on the drums...and it rolls along. There's slow jams, carried by Dolphy's guttural bass clarinet...and it rolls along. There are pretty moments full of delicate flute work...and it rolls right along. Ron Carter takes a jazz cello solo(?)...no one skips a beat, least of all the listener. It's the kind of jazz album that 51 years (yikes!) since it was recorded, people who don't get jazz point to as an example of the elitism and alloofness of jazz. It's also the kind of record jazz heads point to as an example of jazz's democracy. Don't think about it, just feel it.
I for one love it, and so do my kids. It makes them dance, and a truer test of music has yet to be devised. If you love jazz, turn it on and enjoy a cocktail. If you don't love jazz, at least you can use this record to make yourself feel smarter, like when people wear fake glasses and listen to classical music they don't get.
In closing:
Not anything from "Out There", but a great example of Dolphy on the bass clarinet, and instument he practically brought to jazz singlehandedly. Mingus (bass) and Danny Richmond (drums) ain't half bad niether.
Seen here is the original cover art from it's release in 1960, certainly out there for the time.
Mine is a re-issue from 1969, though still on the Prestige label. Perhaps a bit more aesthetically in line with the look of jazz records, but no matter, still the same jams, and still listenable by way of needle and wood. Worth every bit of the ten dollars I paid for it at Westsider Records, a dusty place that was someones apartment once upon a million years ago... my favorite kind of place.
I can remember the first time I heard this record straight through. I already knew Eric Dolphy by way of his work with Charles Mingus mostly. WHRB, the Harvard radio station, has a show called The Jazz Spectrum, from 5:00 a.m. till 1:00 p.m. every morning. Mostly, it's a great way to hear great jazz without having to pick, so long as the d.j. is good, which they frequently are. The station is also famous for it's "orgies"...marathon sessions of one artists work, often lasting for more than a day at a stretch...Killer.
When the boy was but two, I would drive him three times a week to my mother-law's place before heading to work myself. On a good day, the drive was at least 40 minutes on the highway, on a bad day, forget it. On one such bad day, however, old HRB was running an Eric Dolphy orgy, and I heard this whole slab, on vinyl at that. I could here Harvard's old copy crackling over the speakers of the car radio.
Anyway, it killed me than and I was immediately placed on a mission to find it. Many of you will say that a mere ten minutes on the internet that very day would have landed this in my hands, and I guess you'd be right, but my beliefs on the subject of musical reproduction have been documented before, and I don't like to cheat or compromise when it comes to this kind of (important) stuff.
Then one day I find myself in New York for the J. Press toss-off sale, and Tin Tin sees fit to take me to Westsider, and I find it, and I'm thrilled, so much so that I no longer care if I score a damn thing at J. Press. I've got my gripes with New York, but the ability to turn up superb jazz vinyl at great prices is not one of them. That was a week and a half ago. I've listened to it a dozen times since then...I'm listening to it now.
In it's time, this record, and Dolphy in general for that matter, was extremely cutting edge, the very definition of the Jazz avante garde. It's kind of free jazz, but it's clearly structured, too. The instrumentation is a pinch unorthodox, with Dolphy playing sax, clarinet, flute and bass clarinet..you know, like he does, George Duvivier on bass, Roy Haynes on drums, and Ron Carter, known to be a bassist, on cello. What strikes me most is he way that the music just seems to roll out of these guys. There's kind of a melody, then kind of a bunch of solos, then kind of melody again...it rolls right through. There's an up tempo number underpinned by walking bass and peppy brush work on the drums...and it rolls along. There's slow jams, carried by Dolphy's guttural bass clarinet...and it rolls along. There are pretty moments full of delicate flute work...and it rolls right along. Ron Carter takes a jazz cello solo(?)...no one skips a beat, least of all the listener. It's the kind of jazz album that 51 years (yikes!) since it was recorded, people who don't get jazz point to as an example of the elitism and alloofness of jazz. It's also the kind of record jazz heads point to as an example of jazz's democracy. Don't think about it, just feel it.
I for one love it, and so do my kids. It makes them dance, and a truer test of music has yet to be devised. If you love jazz, turn it on and enjoy a cocktail. If you don't love jazz, at least you can use this record to make yourself feel smarter, like when people wear fake glasses and listen to classical music they don't get.
In closing:
Not anything from "Out There", but a great example of Dolphy on the bass clarinet, and instument he practically brought to jazz singlehandedly. Mingus (bass) and Danny Richmond (drums) ain't half bad niether.
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