Good Morning

photo : internet

Getting married in 1939? Have an audience with the Queen? Maybe you're invited to Royal Ascot next year? Wear a trim 38 regular? Then I have a suit for you.

Recently, I was in New Hampshire sorting through the collection of a serious vintage clothing collector. I cam away with a number of really great items, but the best thing among them was unquestionably this full morning dress suit, made in 1937. For all the great items I find through these channels for myself or my shop, it's these rare vintage formal pieces that are far and away the most fun to come across.

The suit is complete, and in excellent shape for its age. Here we have the cutaway coat in soft charcoal grey flannel, with beautifully cut peak lapels and close fitting, darted body construction, and flat front wool trousers in black and grey stripes.

The back features the curved seams at the shoulders indicative of quality in such a garment...

Hooked center vent and closed pleat running the length of each tail. Split body construction, the right way to do it.

The lining needs new stitches at the seams in a few spots, but there are no tears. Note the taped flannel sweat guards at the armpit.

Dated July 13 1937, consigned from the granddaughter of its original owner, recently dry cleaned.

Included is the original matching waistcoat, with six button closure and satin back...

as well as this additional waistcoat in dove grey doeskin, an excellent example of bygone tailoring, with peaked lapels and six button double breasted closure.

There is one tear on the back, along the seam. Easily repaired and worth doing on such a rare and special garment.

Vintage 1930s from Rogers Peet Company.



The trousers are made of a similar soft flannel in a grey and black stripe, the classic pattern for formal day trousers. Flat front with button fly, brace buttons and (oddly) belt loops. They are in excellent condition as well, though there are some very slight marks on the seat showing where they have been let out. The hems are plain, with a slight angle cut.

As I've done in the past with formal items as special and rare as these, I am offering these four pieces as a unit here rather than in my online shop. Remember, they have value as antiques as well as just clothing.

The coat will fit a man who wear a 38 regular, with a trim waist of about 32. The trousers measure 34 waist, though they have been let out, 32 being their original size. Inseam is 31 inches. Whether you've got an event coming up that might actually merit such an outfit, or you're just a serious collector of real antique menswear, please consider giving this suit a good home. Interested parties may contact me with offers at anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com. Bids will be accepted through the end of the week.

Update: this item has been moved to Ebay. Interested buyers may bid for it here.

p.s. plenty of other new items in the Shop this week. Stop by.

Divine Providence

It takes dedication and an iron will to hunt down the good stuff in the junk like I do. With practice comes skill, and the more you do it, the better I you develop an eye for things. As my friend Bobby from Boston has been heard to say, after a while, the clothes have a way of finding you. Such was the case with my latest acquisition:

A hefty but soft tweed jacket in black/white/grey district check with a blue over-check, from the late great Rogers Peet Co. I spotted this number nearly a week ago while out on the hunt. The thrift shop wanted $19.99 for it. Apparently, someone there has gotten a little wise to the game...probably learned it fro AAW, dammit. Being the spoiled cheapskate I am, this was too rich for my blood, so I passed. Within an hour of leaving the place,I was
kicking myself for leaving it behind, but alas, you can't win 'em all.

Yesterday, I returned. I found a lot of other stuff. As was getting ready to leave, I spotted a corner of district check tweed poking out from a bundle of cheap acrylic ski hats. Lo and behold, it was the elusive jacket, only half price for having a white tag that day. The signals this time were too clear to ignore, so I snapped it up. Call it divine providence, the jacket found me. I left it, and it found me again,  it was meant to be mine. Seen here with a vintage Brooks Brothers white oxford, iconic "rolling" unlined collar and all ( $5.49), an English regimental tie from the Andover Shop ($1.00), and a silk square heisted from my dad when I was in high school, it's a cinch for the kind of bracing cold we've been missing in these part these last few months.

Below, some heavy weight light grey flannels by Polo ($7.99) finally see their debut for the season. Finish with my new favorite cordovan longwings ($7.00) and some yellow socks ( perhaps a bit much, but that's what I do, no?)
A reader recently pointed out the lack of the old full body shot of late. So, with the addition of a tan cashmere coat, cashmere scarf in very muted Black Watch tartan, brown leather gloves and a Tyrolean hat, the overall effect was thus:

Not bad for approximately $100 total, outerwear included. Come to think of it, I passed on that coat at first, too.  Lesson learned, twice: the time to buy a beautiful old thing is when you find a beautiful old thing.

p.s. the Tyrolean hat has undergone a bit of reshaping:

achieved at home with steam from a tea kettle. After having knocked some of the "Pinocchio" off of it, its become a Winter favorite.