Fall Casual

Fall Casual, or, British-public-school-algebra-teacher chic.

Ralph Lauren shirt, $5.99, Brooks Brothers khakis, $5.49, Viyella tie, $1.99, Barbour jacket, $150 new at outlet, Donegal tweed cap, $1.99

It can be difficult to dress well when its simply a matter of choice. You can learn to get over the feeling of being overdressed as compared to everyone else around, or even the feeling of being inappropriately dressed for the conventions of modern life. Guys who dress well, or "dress up"" as the rest of the world calls it, tend to go full tilt into it. Generally I believe that if you wear a tie, you should also wear a jacket, even if that jacket gets removed and hung up immediately on arrival. But there are times when a casual midpoint is just the thing, and I find that Autumn is just the time for that. 

In my job, there are time when I have a lot of work to do, and being too dressed up is simply not appropriate for that. But an outfit like the one pictured above works nicely. Its basically comprised of sturdy casual cotton pieces, all derived of either work or military origin.

The addition of a solid tie in a soft fabric makes me feel more finished, without feeling overdone. This tie is an unusual one, made of old Viyella, 55%cotton/45%wool. Recently acquired for $1.99 at a thrift shop, I can already tell it will be a frequent player this season. The undone button down collar is a hopeless affectation...

...as is the tie tied with rear blade a bit longer than front blade.  Blame the internet, or the Italians, but I had to do something to keep the fuddy duddy math teacher vibe of such an outfit \in check.

These old penny loafers could use a shine, but I'll save that for the next time I wear them with a blazer. A whiff of the old wear and tear isn't always undesirable.

Fall really is the perfect time for these mid-casual outfits. The days are sunny, and just chilly enough to feel comfortable in moderately substantial clothing. A Barbour jacket or similar has a way of making just a shirt and tie look less unfinished, and a good tweed jacket with denim is pretty indisputably classic by now. Embrace the chill.

p.s. my apologies for my recent absence here. Technical difficulties of every kind this week.

p.p.s. If you are in the Boston area this week, the annual Honk festival is happening in Davis Square. The weather looks to be just right for some activist marching bands, and maybe even a trip to the AAW Shop for some Fall Casual.

Casual, not Sloppy

The word "casual" gets bandied about in reference to clothing or the situations in which we wear clothing so much that it's definition tends to get blurred. For a guy like me who actually enjoys clothing and dressing to suit the occasion, it's all but become a dirty word. It shouldn't be. I may have a habit of being what many consider "overdressed" much of the time, but I'm not such a stiff that I don't know how to wear casual clothing in casual situations.

The outfit above is something I consider to be casual, but adult. A striped button down shirt, favorite vintage wool crew neck sweater and soft flannel pants. In it, I am comfortable and warm, but I also feel like a grown man to be taken seriously. A younger fellow, or someone more fashion conscious, might try the same thing with dark jeans and come off just fine. Topped with a Barbour jacket and tweed cap, this outfit saw me through taking a small child to a doctors appointment, lunch and ice cream to follow, a trip to a thrift shop, after school pick up, playground time, and a night shift at work. I was comfortable and appropriately dressed for each of these situations.

I'm not about to go on some silly rant about how "casual" means a tweed jacket and tie with cords and loafers. There was a time when this was true, but we simply do not live in that time anymore. Ranting about things like men who wear brown shoes in the city and the fact that we no longer wear black tie to dinner at home is not only pointless, it marks one as an out of touch curmudgeon with little better to do than complain about what everybody else is or isn't doing. However, it's not a bad idea to remind ourselves that casual doesn't necessarily mean sloppy. You won't see me out of the house in my pyjamas, and the older I get the less likely it is you'll see me even in jeans. For men who care about clothing, it can be challenging these days to dress in a manner they consider appropriate while not looking like a stiff. As unfortunate as this may be to some of us, it helps to remember that you can be casual and well dressed simultaneously, despite what the world at large may be telling you.

This is my kind of casual:

p.s. If only Ralph Gleason would get off the stage. It's embarrassing.

Check Twice

Wool houndstooth bow tie, generous gift of Mrs. Ellie La Veer Stager, cream colored, spread collar shirt with tattersall check in black, hunter green and rust in soft cotton flannel by Ralphie ($3.99), lambswool sweater vest, made in England for Brooks Brothers, $4.49.  On top, a Barbour jacket and brown tweed cap with embroidered pheasants; rainy, dreary Autumn day.

All that's missing are some Irish setters, a long flask of single malt, and a couple hundred acres of damp British countryside.

p.s. new ties in the Shop. Go see.

Wet Feet, and How Not to Have Them

It should be clear to you by now that I have a strong tendency to like all things old, outmoded and archaic, most especially in matters of dress and general personal carriage. This may lead you to believe that I would be the sort of man to wear overshoes, or "rubbers", when Ole' Ma Nature throws us a distinctly wet welcome to June. You'd be wrong.

Over the years, I've had a few pair like the ones you see above, and I really tried to use them. I've also owned sock garters in the past, and tried to like those, too. In the end, I find both things to be just plain silly in the modern world, the exclusive province of guys who do old stuff just to do old stuff.

And don't even get me started on Swims, their overpriced and somehow fashionable off-shoots.The only thing sillier than rubber overshoes is overpriced pseudo-fashionable "cool" rubber overshoes.

So what, then, is a fellow to do? The answers vary. For many men, it's easy to simply take refuge in the fact that pyjamas now suffice as clothing practically everywhere these days and cover up in some high tech waterproof camping stuff. Or you could just stay inside.

Fortunately for me, I live in New England, near Boston, in the epicenter of that uniquely American style of dressing up with extreme elements of casual leisure thrown in, of combining proper dress with sensible dress in just the right way. Fortunately for the rest of you, this way of dressing not only happens to be enjoying a moment of fashion right now but is also far more generally acceptable in more places than ever.

To begin with, these are the shoes that will keep your feet dry. Bean Boots, Original Maine Hunting Shoes, Duck Boots, whatever you want to call them. In Winter I wear a high cut pair with woolen socks. On the second day of June, I wear slip on moccasins with cotton socks and cheap khakis.At work, I keep an old pair of penny loafers to change into. There is one and only one source for these shoes : L.L.Bean. Don't bother with any others. But of course, you knew that already.

Up top, a Brooks Brothers shirt and blazer with an tie from the Andover Shop are all kept dry and clean under a Barbour jacket. Yes, in Boston you sometimes find yourself wearing a jacket over a jacket over a shirt and tie even in June.

The whole thing enters near abominable territory with the addition up top of a ball cap to keep the head dry. Truth be told, a ball cap atop jacket and tie is a time tested option in foul weather in Boston. Tread lightly here. Ball cap and suit is likely no good; ball cap and blazer with khakis is manageable. Red Sox hats and their derivatives are best. Country club and gold course caps work too, but only if you belong or play golf there.

The overall effect is a perfect fusion of correct and sensible, if a little laid back in its way. But that is the very heart of what this stuff is all about. Don't forget that above all the clothes should fit well, if even a little slouchy. Remember that when this "preppy fashion" moment passes and you should be able to wear this stuff for the rest of your life. Then your boy can wear this stuff for much of his life.

Oh, and your feet will stay dry.

Tweed Chicken

The Girl celebrated her third birthday this weekend. A house filled with friends, family and running children kept a broad smile on her face. Thank you one and all who were there. She received many thoughtful gifts, thankfully none of the noisy/flashing variety....

Daddy's personal favorite is this small soft toy chicken made of houdstooth check tweed with gold yarn legs. It's as though a fairy went in my closet and turned my clothes into toys.

p.s. the Shop is bursting with new goods, a lot of high quality stuff I've been sitting on for a while, including Barbour, Burberry, Polo, Harris Tweed, Viyella, USA made L.L. Bean and more.

Secrets of Thrifiting : Strategic Eavesdropping

Just t'other day, I hit one of my favorite watering holes. I found a few things, and headed to the front desk to purchase them happily. As the kindly clerk was toting up my purchases, I heard the couple behind me explain to the couple behind them: "this place is o.k. But you gotta go to the one in H********. They've got the best stuff." My ears perked, and I turned to spy who was talking. A couple in their 60s, the wife wearing a knockout vintage knee length Barbour coat, not unlike this, only knee length, and perfectly weathered, so cool:

...with old jeans, L.L.Bean rubber mocs, and a turtle neck sweater. Immediately, it registers with me that not only do these people appear to be old pros at this game, but they also seem to share my aesthetic.Out in the car, I look up the new location straightaway, and head there at once. Within minutes, I am laden with more than I can carry.

Keep your eyes and ears peeled, and observe the other folks around you. They can offer clues to the next big score.

p.s. my good fortune is your good fortune. The Shop is busting with new stuff, more to be added over the weekend. Check it out.