An Elusive Basic

I've managed to gather quite a collection of clothing over the years through thrift shopping and bargain hunting, and am happy top have arrived at a point where I feel that my wardrobe is well stocked with qaulity items that should last me for years. I think it's safe to say that I have most bases covered as far as having appropriate clothing for any occasion: navy and dark grey suits for somber, serious times; tweed, corduroy, and flannel for semi formal day wear; bright colors and light fabrics for jaunty Summer moments; and denim, sweaters, tennis shirts, etc. for the business of living 90% of normal life in the modern world. But one thing that has always eluded my grasp has been a good turtleneck or two, for that nebulous style sweet spot that exists between a tweed jacket and tie and outright full casual. That is, until recently.

The reason I had yet to find a good turtleneck wasn't really scarcity. There are in fact plenty to be had out there in thrift shops. The problem was more specific than that. Turtlenecks come in a variety of fabrics and styles, and they aren't all flattering on all men. Finding a type that works hasn't been easy. The most prolific are the cotton jersey knit types, available in every color imaginable. While there is something to be said for the rugged New England look of a soft cotton t-neck under a plaid cahmois or Viyella shirt,especially while shovelling snow or chopping wood,  it's not a look I can pull off. Worn alone under a jacket, I find this type to look too much like underwear.

Then there are the full blast sweater types. Big and thick and at best made of wool, these can look great with jeans, cords or flannels and a Barbour jacket or even casual overcoat, (like so) but they tend to be too thick to wear under a sports jacket. And good luck finding one that isn't thickly ribbed (I hate ribbed sweaters (unreasonable bias: ed.)). 

I find, the best and most useful expression of the turtle neck to be something of a hybrid of the two styles. The one pictured above, recently found at a thrift shop for $ 5.49, illustrates the point perfectly. Knitted of soft lambswool, it's technically a sweater, but a very thin one. It fit's close enough to keep me warm, but doesn't wear hot indoors. One of the problems in wearing a t-neck can be that they tend to make you look half dressed worn alone, so I prefer to wear one when I can leave my jacket on throughout the day. The neck fits close and high, and is ribbed finely to allow for movement. I was lucky enough to find the same one in camel tan at the same shop for the same price. Other good color choices would be hunter green and cream, not white, the kind of colors that go with a good tweed. (makes me wish I had kept this. Sigh)

It's nothing particularly special, only from J. Crew, but it's soft and fits well. In fact, this is the sort of thing I'd even consider picking up new in an end of season sale if I found it. 

I think a sweater like this provides a nice change of pace, and offers a good way to wear tailored clothing without being "overdressed", which can be a good thing for guys like me who hardly ever find themselves in situations that actually require tailored clothing. Oddly enough, I received more compliments, and the inquiries as to "why are you so dressed up?" were higher than they are when I wear a tie. Many people immediately equated it with British-ness. I'll take it.

p.s. photos of Steve McQueen in "Bullitt" noticeably absent. I think we've all seen enough of him for a good, long while, don't you?

Divine Providence

It takes dedication and an iron will to hunt down the good stuff in the junk like I do. With practice comes skill, and the more you do it, the better I you develop an eye for things. As my friend Bobby from Boston has been heard to say, after a while, the clothes have a way of finding you. Such was the case with my latest acquisition:

A hefty but soft tweed jacket in black/white/grey district check with a blue over-check, from the late great Rogers Peet Co. I spotted this number nearly a week ago while out on the hunt. The thrift shop wanted $19.99 for it. Apparently, someone there has gotten a little wise to the game...probably learned it fro AAW, dammit. Being the spoiled cheapskate I am, this was too rich for my blood, so I passed. Within an hour of leaving the place,I was
kicking myself for leaving it behind, but alas, you can't win 'em all.

Yesterday, I returned. I found a lot of other stuff. As was getting ready to leave, I spotted a corner of district check tweed poking out from a bundle of cheap acrylic ski hats. Lo and behold, it was the elusive jacket, only half price for having a white tag that day. The signals this time were too clear to ignore, so I snapped it up. Call it divine providence, the jacket found me. I left it, and it found me again,  it was meant to be mine. Seen here with a vintage Brooks Brothers white oxford, iconic "rolling" unlined collar and all ( $5.49), an English regimental tie from the Andover Shop ($1.00), and a silk square heisted from my dad when I was in high school, it's a cinch for the kind of bracing cold we've been missing in these part these last few months.

Below, some heavy weight light grey flannels by Polo ($7.99) finally see their debut for the season. Finish with my new favorite cordovan longwings ($7.00) and some yellow socks ( perhaps a bit much, but that's what I do, no?)
A reader recently pointed out the lack of the old full body shot of late. So, with the addition of a tan cashmere coat, cashmere scarf in very muted Black Watch tartan, brown leather gloves and a Tyrolean hat, the overall effect was thus:

Not bad for approximately $100 total, outerwear included. Come to think of it, I passed on that coat at first, too.  Lesson learned, twice: the time to buy a beautiful old thing is when you find a beautiful old thing.

p.s. the Tyrolean hat has undergone a bit of reshaping:

achieved at home with steam from a tea kettle. After having knocked some of the "Pinocchio" off of it, its become a Winter favorite.