Worthy Compromise

I may buy everything cheap, but I'm actually fairly uncompromising in my standards of quality. At least where it really matters. Other times, there are alternatives to be found. Here's a case in point:

I've always dug the iconic khaki bucket hat from J. Press. True, it's frumpy as all Hell, but on a rainy day with a Macintosh or a Barbour? Unstoppable. It also makes a fine beach hat, with swim trunks and a soft old oxford with a frayed collar. I've wanted on for a long time, but $55 is a little dear for a cotton hat. The description on their website doesn't even say where it's made, which leads me to believe it's anywhere but the USA. They tend to proclaim that fact loudly when it applies.

O'Connell's in Buffalo trumps old J. Press with their offering. Made in USA and only $39.95. Similar styling, similar navy and red grosgrain band. I might even have considered paying full whack for this one, but then divine Providence stepped in.

Here's a little number I picked up at Target today, $14.99. 92% cotton, 8% ramie, waterproof, crushable. Forget for a minute it's cheap, forget where it came from. I actually like this hat better. The styling is more along the lines of a stingy brimmed fedora, right in keeping with my own sense of style. And check the grosgrain ribbon. I like it better. It also came with these quaint instruction on how to crush it and pack it. Good thing, I might never have figured that out. This little card will be my new bookmark.

Before one of you says it, let me beat you to the punch. I hate Target and every place like it. Such places are harbingers of the end and each time I step inside, I die a tiny death. But I have two small kids, one of whom is still in diapers, and so I find myself frequently in such places buying said diapers, or paper towels, or poster board and magic markers. Because Target is the place to get cheap commodities cheap. But I can't help but cast at least a stray eye at the men's department. It's like they say, you never know....

There is a vast difference between a J. Press suit and a Merona suit from Target, a difference so vast I won't even begin to describe it. I wouldn't even look at the neckties. But undershirts? Sure, why not? Argyle socks? Sometimes they have 'em for two bucks, why not? And is there really that much difference between this hat and the one from Press? Probably not. Being thrifty is as much about knowing how to recognize a worthy compromise as it is about hunting down the really good stuff at outrageously low prices.



To put it all in perspective, earlier in the day I picked up this shirt, at a thrift store, for $1.00.

Always keep your eyes peeled and be open minded. There's deals all around you if you only learn to see them.

Worth Every Penny

While I may be a die hard cheap skate and devoted member of the Church of the Holy Thrift, there are times even I can admit that something is worth paying full freight. For a while, I've been kicking around the idea of an occasional, and by no means regular, series on this blog entitled "Worth Every Penny". The idea is to feature the rare instances where I endorse paying outright. After all, one of the points of being thrifty in the first place is to be able to shell out some cash when it really matters. So without further ado, the pilot installment:

Boston Athenaeum Membership

Clearly, anyone who writes and reads blogs is likely to be spending far too much time glued to the screen, looking at the internet and ruining his eye sight. I'm no exception. I do, however, love reading books, the printed kind, and amazingly I find time to do it. Aside from amassing an indecently large wardrobe, an ever expanding library of both books and music is my other crutch. I can't get enough. That's why I proudly hold membership at the Boston Atenaeum.

The Athenaeum is a membership library, one of the oldest in the country, founded in 1807. That may seem a bit snooty, but it isn't. True, you have to pay a fee each year to gain access, but it's actually pretty cheap and anyone can join. For as much as you might think this place reeks of old Boston Brahmin exclusivity (note:the video in the link was filmed at the Athenaeum), it actually welcomes all comers with open arms on a truly equal basis. The only attitude you'll encounter here is a love of books and a reverence of knowledge.

The architecture of the building is stunning. The staff couldn't be friendlier or more helpful, and the collection is beyond description. Every time I set foot in the place, I immediately wish I didn't have to be somewhere else later. I could get lost in there. Besides all that, they not only have a wonderful childrens room, but they actually welcome the little ones. Most places I can think of that look like that room up there in the photo can get pretty prickly when it comes to kids. Hell, I get attitude at a certain Salvation Army over my children.

I frequently will browse the catalog online, pick out a few things, and call the cirulation desk to request they send them down for me to pick up. This way,I can just pop in with the kids, get my books and go. They are always very accomodating. A while back, I requested the memoirs of Giuseppe Garibaldi, published in 1863. The copy they lent me was an original, from 1863. They didn't bat an eye at letting it into my hand for 60 days. They're good like that.

Today, I had the rare chance to get in there alone. When this happens, I like to pick a topic or two to think about, then find that corner of the library and just wander. I spent an hour in the art and architecture room down in the basement, just browsing books on averything from Gothic churchbuilding techniques to Pier Luigi Nervi.

Sartorially speaking, I can think of few places better to wear a J.Press blazer with khakis and a repp tie. In the members only reading room on the top floor, there's always a few Ivy League octagenarians reading the newspaper in tattered old sack suits and club striped ties, frayed at the point of course. Fantastic.

I must be honest an tell you that my own membership came free, a stroke of good fortune for which I will be forever thankful. That story deserves it's own post someday. But if my membership ever ran out, I'd pay to renew it without a second thought. A love and respect of this venerable temple of knowledge is a gift, one I plan to pass on to my children.

Associate membership is $115 for individuals, $175 for the whole family. I'll bet many of you pay at least that much per month for internet and cable. It is said that we live in the information age. For the cost of a months internet, you can have a years access to a wealth of information the likes of which your computer will never be able to provide.

It's worth every penny.

Sucker Punch (finale)

I swore I wasn't gonna do a post about Take Ivy, but I couldn't help it....
I fell for it, I pre-ordered it. My copy arrived today, as I'm sure so many others did. It was on the front porch by 8:30 a.m. Damn, Amazon, did you send the trucks out at midnight, or what?

No surprise, I love it. I won't set off on a full scale rave up over it. The old internets already aglow with them. I will say that what struck me most in actually seeing this much-hyped tome was an underlying innocence, on the part of the authors/photographers as well as the guys in the pictures. It's refreshing to see this stuff in its true context, and not taken as runway fashion or blog fodder.

The Ivy League culture of the mid 1960s has been much romanticized lately. Maybe with good reason. We like to imagine that young guys in the old days carried themselves with a brand of poise and style that the youth of today just don't understand, but judging by the pictures, these guys were just wearing what dudes wore in their day, trying to fit in and be part of something. For every moment of sartorial inspiration, there are flubs. Which is as it should be, since it is a piece of social anthropology with humans as its subject.

What's with the guy in a tweed jacket and madras shorts (page 24)?

The Apologist

I took these photos the other day, but then I found two Brooks Brothers oxfords for ten bucks, and I decided to write about that instead, because I felt news of such a "score" more in keeping with the general thrust of this blog. Then, this morning I felt the need of a new post, if for no other reason than to steer the conversation off the topic of the slippers I bought that seem to be infuriating some off you ( forgive me the occasional guilty pleasure). Anyway, Mrs. G. took the camera to work with her today, so I'm sticking with some pictures already in storage:

Vintage Palm Beach "Zephyr Weight" madras jacket, $5.99, Brooks Brothers blue and white shirt with contrast club collar, made in USA, $4.99, no name silk knit tie, $.99, slide on collar bar (sorry, ADG), $.25
White suede "Worthmore" bucks by Florsheim (getting dirtier by the minute...can't wait for Fall) $1.99, tan Italian gabardine slacks by Ralph Lauren Purple Label, $4.99, navy cotton socks (I dig the contrast of the dark socks with white shoes and light colored pants, forgive me) from Target, part of a three pack for $4.99

The original post for these photos was going to be a kind of last-chance-for-Summer-clothes thing, which in this case I guess really only applies to the jacket. While I won't miss sweating like a hog and having my hair curl up in the Italian guy mini afro it becomes when the humidity is high, I will miss that jacket. Technically, the shoes close their season soon too, I guess, but I'm going wear them straight into November. Forgive me, but I happen to think that white bucks with cords and tweed on a crisp Autumn day are the jam. I'll probably wear them more in the Fall than I did this Summer.

When I wrote my last post, I knew it was going to piss at least a few of you off. That's fine. It' all well and good getting comments along the lines of "you look great", but without some criticism, we're not having much of a conversation. That's why I publish all comments except for spam. I welcome dissenting opinions in the interest of discussion. Really, I do.

But this morning, someone (an anonymous commenter, of course) said my blog had become a parody, which got my wheels turning. Now, I know that if you're going to write a blog and thereby live at least some carefully edited part of your life in public, a certain thickness of the skin is required. So before one of you gives me "if you can't stand the heat...", it ain't that. There have been times when a negative comment really struck home and got me to take a closer look at what I was doing, like the time I instigated that veritable sh*tstorm about the Pop Up Flea, and Tin Tin asked me to take down his link. I let things get out of hand, he called me out, we talked, and now we're pals, and now I know a little better. But parody? Forgive me, I just don't see it. That' a fairly heavy term to lay on someone as I see it, so if someone else is reading me that way, I'd like to know why. I encourage you all to think and say what you will, but if you're going to get to name calling, please be prepared to explain yourself.

Sucker Punch (again)

Once again, I fall victim to the sucker punch that is the ol' Skull and Bones, this time in the guise of a pair of TOMS shoes for Rugby RL...a double whammy.

Admittedly, I'm as surprised as anyone how much I like these neo-Preppy pseudo-karate slippers...but I do. For me they're just the thing for padding around the house, like socks, only better, because they're kind of shoes, only they're not. To be quite honest, I usually putter around the house is the dreaded flip flops, so right away these are a vast improvement.
Dig 'em here with a pair of Reds. I know some of you will lynch me for this, but I'd even wear these sockless with black tie and a cream dinner jacket, at a beachside cocktail shindig. Don't worry, though, that ain't likely to happen any time soon.

For as much of a clotheshorse as I am, I've never been much of a loungewear guy. I often rail against guys who use their children as an excuse to be a slob, but when I'm at home, doing dishes and laundry and picking up toys, it's white t-shirts and grey running shorts, and now these. In winter, the shorts will be replaced by tartan flannel lounge pants. I can't be bothered with suits of pyjamas and all that jazz.

I'd love to own a cool pair of velvet slippers from Del Toro or Stubbs and Wootton, but the line needs to be drawn somewhere. Some things, cool as they may be, are really just far too precious, I think. These cloth sock/shoe things are comfortable as hell, and not half as prissy (forgive me).

TOMS makes these shoes proudly in China, and donates a pair for every one sold to a needy kid. What's wrong with that? True, I may have picked these up for $4.99 at the thrift, but I'm considering paying full freight for a secone pair in tartan plaid.

p.s. If you're consdiering these, they run small. I'm a size 10, but these are size 11, and they fit just right.

Secrets of Thrifting

Good things often come in pairs:
Like these two made in USA blue Brooks Brothers button down oxfords, in my size, $9.98 for the pair.

In a down and dirty thrift store, if you find one Brooks Brothers shirt in your size, that obviously belonged to a guy who brought his shirts out to the cleaners every week, keep digging. Chances are there are more similar shirts in the same size, likely having belonged to the same fellow, who bought a dozen new in the 3 for $200 sale, then got rid of all those perfectly good old ones all in one fell swoop.

If you're especially lucky, his suits will be there too, also in your size.

Non-Compulsory Suits

I like to dress well, but my life doesn't require it. Maybe it never will again, except for special occasions, but even that's up to fate. The way things are going, it's not inconceivable that when I die my Mass will be said by a priest in cut-off jeans and a t-shirt that says "I'm with stupid", or something. I likely won't ever have a job that calls for suits, given the fact that those that do, don't, not anymore. Now I could, and often do, bemoan our loss of what is becoming an antiquated manner of personal comportment. But today, I'll look to the bright side of the situation, because when a guy wears a suit because he wants to, not because he has to, he can do all sorts of fun and unconventional things to bring the stuffiness right out of it.
We had some dreary weather these last few days, and many people around these parts got to acting like Summer was closed for business. Then today it got all warm and sunny. I decided to trot out the old tan gabardine suit, realizing that this might be it's last run of the year. Paired here with a very conservative striped tie and foulard print square, but punched way up with a shirt in navy and white gingham. In the old days, when lots of jobs required suits, tan would have been pushing it, and the shirt would have been asking for it. But I'm only doing this for me, so have at it.

Every now and then I wear the blades of my ties slightly apart, like all them Italian cats on the Sartorialist, then hold them down with a tie clip. (that tie clip will have a solo post soon...it's a good one...). It's supposed to be all non-chalant, but of course it's totally on purpose. People say "do you know your tie is..." "Yes, I do. Don't worry about it." Affected? Damn right! But we peacocks and Italians are known for that, no?

And speaking of affected, how about bare ankles and tassels?...with a suit? Absolutely, if you want to, when you're wearing a suit for fun and not for rules. And yes, I know those shoes have been getting more than their fair share of play in the rotation, but they are comfortable. Best $3.49 I ever spent.

An English made tie, from the Andover Shop, $1,99

And would somebody please tell Brooks Brothers that well made shirts in "sports" patterns that are made in USA and come in a neck and sleeve length are the jam? Seriously, whens the last time you saw a shirt like this that wasn't sized S/M/L? Recently acquired on our vacation in Maine at thrift shop for $4.99.

My point is, those nice clothes you have that you never wear because you never have to? They ain't doing you or anybody else any good hanging in the closet all the time.

Wear 'em!

Because you want to...because you can. Together, we can make the Well Appointed Gentleman less of a "freak", and more of a role model. Who's with me?