Fall Casual

Fall Casual, or, British-public-school-algebra-teacher chic.

Ralph Lauren shirt, $5.99, Brooks Brothers khakis, $5.49, Viyella tie, $1.99, Barbour jacket, $150 new at outlet, Donegal tweed cap, $1.99

It can be difficult to dress well when its simply a matter of choice. You can learn to get over the feeling of being overdressed as compared to everyone else around, or even the feeling of being inappropriately dressed for the conventions of modern life. Guys who dress well, or "dress up"" as the rest of the world calls it, tend to go full tilt into it. Generally I believe that if you wear a tie, you should also wear a jacket, even if that jacket gets removed and hung up immediately on arrival. But there are times when a casual midpoint is just the thing, and I find that Autumn is just the time for that. 

In my job, there are time when I have a lot of work to do, and being too dressed up is simply not appropriate for that. But an outfit like the one pictured above works nicely. Its basically comprised of sturdy casual cotton pieces, all derived of either work or military origin.

The addition of a solid tie in a soft fabric makes me feel more finished, without feeling overdone. This tie is an unusual one, made of old Viyella, 55%cotton/45%wool. Recently acquired for $1.99 at a thrift shop, I can already tell it will be a frequent player this season. The undone button down collar is a hopeless affectation...

...as is the tie tied with rear blade a bit longer than front blade.  Blame the internet, or the Italians, but I had to do something to keep the fuddy duddy math teacher vibe of such an outfit \in check.

These old penny loafers could use a shine, but I'll save that for the next time I wear them with a blazer. A whiff of the old wear and tear isn't always undesirable.

Fall really is the perfect time for these mid-casual outfits. The days are sunny, and just chilly enough to feel comfortable in moderately substantial clothing. A Barbour jacket or similar has a way of making just a shirt and tie look less unfinished, and a good tweed jacket with denim is pretty indisputably classic by now. Embrace the chill.

p.s. my apologies for my recent absence here. Technical difficulties of every kind this week.

p.p.s. If you are in the Boston area this week, the annual Honk festival is happening in Davis Square. The weather looks to be just right for some activist marching bands, and maybe even a trip to the AAW Shop for some Fall Casual.

Freedom in the Restrictions

Having written this blog some five years or so now, I sense a pattern of writers block that occurs each year just about now. Regular readers will no doubt have noticed it here recently. I suppose the paucity of posts can be attributed to a few things. No doubt setting up my "secret shop" has been very time consuming, and besides, the inherent laziness of Summer can't help  but creep in, especially when it comes to performing unpaid work. But there is one reason above all that slows the gears to a grind.

This is, as you know, a blog primarily about men's clothing. I use my own clothes almost exclusively as topics of discussion. While it's true that I have a penchant for the brightly colored so-called "go-to-hell" aestethic, clothing like that will get you only so far. It may make for good photos and fun discussion, but even I can't wear it as often as you might think I do. The fact is, from July until the weather changes to tweed, you will find me in some combination of navy jacket and tan trousers upwards of five days a week. I've written about this "sometimes uniform" before. There's really only so much you can write about it. ADG did a pretty good job recently, as is his wont, and his post caused me to shelve this one. However, a week later with little else to talk  about and not wanting so cram to much business info down the gullet, I've decided to run it anyway.

Pictured above is the line-up that is my Summer dress clothes. Three blazers probably seems like a lot to any sensible person who isn't needlessly obsessed with unnecessary clothing (ask my wife), but I need them all for different reasons. There's the linen one with white buttons, on the left, for the hottest days. There's the gossamer wool hopsack by Southwick, in the center, an indefatigable classic that is actually the lynch pin of my entire wardrobe, and there's the double-breasted, side vented number on the right, the most dashing of the group, for when a bit more formality is desired.  And then there's the tan trousers: classic flat fronts from Brooks Brothers, a very lightweight pair by Alan Rouleau of Boston, a real pair of military surplus, a fuller cut pair with forward pleats in a linen and cotton herringbone, another forward pleated pair in cotton and silk, and on, and on. Why do I need all these different versions of the same thing? Probably no good reason, but here is my justification.

Variety is a good thing, but too much of a good thing can be bad. There is a certain freedom to be found in restrictions. It's a common theory among artists of all kinds that the more limited the parameters, the more there is for expression. By removing all superfluous choice, one is free to hone in on all the little minute details that differentiate dressing well from merely dressing. A combination like a navy jacket and tan trousers is right for so many occasions, and works well with numerous combinations of shirt and tie, from very plain and formal, to bold stripes, plaids, or anything else. You can concentrate more on cut and style, opting for easy American tailoring for one occasion, with flat front trousers and soft shoulders, and more aggressive tailoring for another, opting for pleats, side vents and a stronger shoulder. You can wear this combo as easily with sharply creased slacks and a white shirt as with soft old trousers and a polo. It is all purpose, so much so that even a clotheshorse like me will continue to resort to it with great frequency and little compunction.

There is freedom min the restrictions....even if does lead to boring blogging sometimes.

p.s. don't forget about the 20% off Summer sale in the online Shop this week. 20% off everything through midnight Saturday using discount code SUMMER2013 at checkout. Locals can take advantage of 25% savings in person at the live Shop Saturday, 10 August, from 11am-2pm. 249 Elm Street, 2nd Floor, Somerville, MA (Davis Square)

Another Whiff of Spring

Just warm enough today to leave the Barbour at home. Good thing, too. With this mild Winter we just had, that coat has seen a lot of use, and it's just possible that I might i fact be sick of wearing it just now.

The bright orange stripe in this Ben Silver repp tie ($1.99) may be small, but it goes a long way to lifting this relatively staid combination of blue check shirt and brown tweed jacket out of the doldrums. A whiff of Spring, just a whiff...

Cotton khakis make an early appearance. For many, khakis are a go-to year round trouser, but I find them to be too light in Winter, even when temps are unseasonably warm. Now that they're out of the closet, they'll likely make multiple appearances each week until they go away again.

The scarf and gloves I carried in my tote bag as extra protection against late night chill have been supplanted by a light wool crew neck in crazy orange ($1.00) one of my new favorite items. Another whiff of Spring? Or is this sweater a deep breath? Either way, I love it.

If this ensemble looks familiar, it may be that you've seen something like it before:

Bill (my trusty suit form) wore it to the Drill Hall Flea Market recently. Is it mild schizophrenia to be influenced by oneself in sartorial choices? Or merely unforgivable narcissism?

This outfit combines warm elements with lighter ones, drab colors and bright ones, in a way that pays heed to both the time of year and the weather of the day. I say something like this every year in early Spring (and again in early Autumn): transitional dressing can often be the most difficult to maneuver, but also the most fun.