Late Summer

Many people lament the end of Summer, but I'm not one of them. Don't get me wrong, it's not that I don't enjoy ice cold rum drinks and trips to the beach as much as the next guy. In fact, such things rate among my favorites. But here in Boston, the locals tend to make a professional sport of complaining about the weather, regardless of what that weather may be....regardless also of the fact that said weather is both normal and expected in a given time of year. These same yahoos say things like "hot enough for ya?" in July and "snowin' enough for ya'?" in January. After our collective one night stand with Irene, I just don't want to hear it...and I had a tree collapse in my yard, remember?

 Anyway, another reason I won't complain about the gradual end of Summer is vanity. I enjoy dressing, and it gets better in the Fall. One by one, old friends return to the fold. I have four identical blue university striped shirts, easily my favorites. I wear this pattern a lot, that's why I have four. But they're oxford, and more than a bit too heavy for Summer. Today marked the first reappearance.  Paired with a no-name cotton knit tie, the spoils of thrift shopping in Maine, and a collar pin from the Andover Shop worn as tie pin, the look has one foot in Summer and one in Fall, a perfect bridge.

The same goes for brown tassel loafers and crisp khakis, my current favorite combination. Cotton socks in pale yellow pay a fitting homage to the fact that it is still August, as we cling to the last vestiges of the warm season.

Completed with a navy blazer and white pocket square, two of the few items which lie completely outside the intricacies of seasonal dressing, always appropriate.

How To Survive a Hurricane

When Mother Nature comes to town all a-rantin' and a-ravin', and you're couped up inside all day with the windows shut tight, a little comfort food really hits the spot.

In times like these, I take solace in 1950s style old lady food, like some tuna melts with American cheese on white bread, grilled up on an old Mirro cast aluminum griddle that was a wedding present in 1948 to my father's aunt. A simple pleasure, but a real one, it helped us to forget, if only for a moment...

that an entire tree, and a big old one at that, was completely uprooted and fell into the back yard.

I wonder:

1) what does one wear to deal with such a mess?
2) can I find it for a buck at a thrift store?

Yikes.

Impressionable-ism

 Your humble author, August 2011

from "Clothes and the Man" by Alan Flusser, 1985

Dammit, I knew that outfit looked familiar, like I'd seen it somewhere before. Because I had.
You know all that stuff you hear about menswear and timelessness and how little things change and how the good stuff never really goes away? It's true.

Sometimes it's good to be impressionable, as long as you listen to the right people.

The Fade

As we roll into late August and the inevitable Fall looms large, my wardrobe slowly experiences the end of Summer fade. True, the temps may still be hot and the humidity high, but it's time for brightly colored slacks in kelly green, Nantucket red, and all manner of patchwork to silently retire, along with the attendant bare ankles.

Crisp khakis, brown tassels and grey socks make a simple but striking combination. Paired with anything in navy or white above the waist, they provide a comfortable form of transition, a perfect bridge between Summer and Fall. They'll keep going with grey tweed all the way into November.

p.s. I got the suit. It's not all good. More soon when I collect my thoughts and find a way to put it tactfully.

p.p.s. New stuff in the shop. Last chance for seersucker.

Mark Your Calendar

An Affordable Wardrobe

presents

the Fourth Semi-Annual

Top Shelf Flea Market

Sunday, 23 October 2011

Noon till 5p.m.

George Dilboy V.F.W. Post 529

371 Summer Street, Somerville, MA, 02144

stay tuned here and on our TSFM sister blog for more info

and plenty of shameless self promotion

So Far, So Good

A few weeks back, I was contacted by Modern Tailor, one of the by now ubiquitous companies offering an online version of made-to-measure clothing at a fraction of what that used to cost. They offered to make me a suit, and asked that I review both the goods and the online order process here. I graciously accepted, and the suit is currently in transit. As for the order process and level of customer service, I have to say, so far, so good.

The website offers a large number of fabric choices, though many of them are variations of charcoal and navy. While it's true that the difficulty in choosing fabrics online lies in the fact that you can't actually see and touch them, and digital representations are not always what they seem, Modern Tailor does offer the option of sending a swatch book comprised of forty fabrics of your choosing for $25. That's not bad, given that if the first suit goes well you now have 39 other fabrics to choose from for your next go-around. In my case, I chose a mid-weight charcoal grey. Seems I may finally be outgrowing my rube tendency to order crazy stuff for it's own sake with online custom.

As with any online outfit like this, the measurements are your responsibility. This means that you the customer are being allowed to f*ck things up royally if you don't pay attention. Modern Tailor offers two options, each with a comprehensive guide. You can take body measurements, which I don't recommend unless you know someone who can take these accurately for you. Don't trust your wife/girlfriend. If you use this option, at least have a tailor put the tape to you.  Alternatively,  they have a guide for taking measurements from your own clothing. This is the option I chose. Using my best fitting trousers and best fitting blazer, I filled in the nearly two dozen measurements. I followed the guide, which is quite explicit, and tweaked a few things here and there using my own judgement. For example, I knocked 1/2 inch off the shoulder measurement of the blazer, given that the shoulders fit a hair large. But that's a trick best used sparingly. If you're not going to be honest about your measurements, why have something made in the first place? This is no place for empty pride.

I opted for flat front pants with cuffs, a single breasted two button coat with side vents and four button surgeon cuffs. I did ask for a few slightly eccentric details; open pockets, and brown buttons with brown stitching on the button holes. About a week later, I received an email from the production staff making sure this was correct, as black buttons are far more conventional on a grey suit, and containing photos of both the black and brown buttons available. After I explained that this was not meant to be a business suit and that I wanted it to have a slightly more casual air, to be worn with brown shoes, they replied that they understood and would proceed. A few days later I received a photo of one of the pockets, partially completed, to be sure this was what I wanted. I must say I was impressed with the individual attention I received, and the questions they asked made me feel that the people asking them knew what they were doing. True, they may have been giving me the royal treatment in hopes of a good review, but I can only hope that this level of attention is the same for all customers.

About two weeks later I was sent an email containing 18 photos of the completed suit (see above), with a measuring tape laid across it to ensure that details and measurements were correct before for shipping. I replied that all looked well, but asked whether they couldn't add a third button in my beloved 3/2 style. I received a prompt reply from the head of production saying that it could be done, but in his opinion it would spoil the overall look of the suit.  Appreciating his honesty, I decided to trust his judgement and said to send the suit along.

The whole process from order to shipment took a pinch more than a month, and I'll likely have it later this week. Here's hoping the garment itself justifies my enthusiasm so far.

This whole online made to measure thing isn't real custom tailoring, not even close. There's no personal involvement with the person actually making the garment, and the fit and details can honestly only be tweaked so much from a pre-existing pattern. But it does have some advantages and perks, especially for an average guy with a bit of taste who really need some good, basic suits in his closet. The suit I bought, had I paid for it, would have cost $535 shipped. I got to add a few personal touches, and if all goes well, it will fit just how I like it. Just think of the piece of crap that same money would have bought at a place like H&M or Men's Wearhouse, never mind the headache and general icky feeling I'd get shopping there. Of course, the real decision will be made when the suit arrives, but I'm hopeful.

So far, so good.

Back in Town

After a wonderful week spent on the coast in Maine, Mrs. G, the Boy, the Girl and I are back in town. Never one to miss an opportunity, I did of course visit a couple of the local thrift shops. Cheapskatery, you see, never takes a vacation.

Not surprisingly, every other piece of clothing I handled originated from L.L.Bean. A lot of it was nondescript new stuff made overseas, but I did find dome choice old pieces. Old Leon Leonwood still has quite a presence "Downeast".

Nothing like a good vacation to refresh the mind. Still, it's good to be home. Regularly scheduled yammering will resume on Monday. My take from the honey holes will be up for sale soon, as well.