Reader Questions : The Devil's Own Cloth

polyester : the Devil's own cloth

Reader Wes writes:

Hi - lately, I've been looking for a suit in various thrift stores. I saw a few today that had no labels. They looked decent but I could not figure out if they were wool or polyester. One felt pretty good, but I was suspicious. Can you recommend a tip or two for identifying fabrics? I'd prefer not to invest in polyester, though I suppose if I can't tell the difference I probably shouldn't be so picky.....

Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated


-w

Let me begin by saying that the short answer is that polyester in any form or percentage is generally to be regarded as an a abominable thing to be avoided at all costs. Then there is the longer answer which involves the overall life lessons of knowing what's best, choosing one's battles, and above all knowing when to compromise. The latter is what follows.

1) Knowing what's best:
The best clothes are made entirely of natural fibers. There's really no arguing that point. In the case of suits, this frequently means some manner of wool, even in Summer. Cotton, linen, and even silk are acceptable as well, but good luck finding such things in our homogenized and all-too-casual world.

It's always best to look for natural fibers. Fortunately, better clothing is usually marked with a tag listing fabric content. On many suits, this can be found inside the coat at the collar. In some cases, a fabric label may be sewn into the lining near one of the interior pockets. In others still, a label will be inside one of the interior pockets. If you know where to look, it's almost always there, but not always.

Natural fibers also tend to have a nicer "feel" to them, whereas synthetics and synthetic blends will have a rougher, faker feel. Experience will teach you the difference.

2) Choose your battles:
While you may want to and very well should do your best to fill your closet with only natural fiber clothes, but sometimes you'll have to bend. Unless you can afford to shop new in the places you like whenever you want, this will be the case. Indeed, if you were that kind of guy anyway you wouldn't likely be reading this blog.

The nerdy world of online menswear discussion is full to the brim with hard core purists and archaic enthusiasts who will kick and scream at the very mention of the word "polyester". But let's not forget that it was the high holy Brooks Brothers themselves who first unleashed Dupont Dacron on the world in the 1960s, or that it was indeed for them and many other big names in traditional menswear not a curse but a selling point for quite some time. The main difference is that those clothes were just as well constructed and styled as there natural fiber counterparts, and as such looked better than the sunsequent double-knit badly formed disasters of the 1970s with which polyester is irrevocably joined in most people's minds. Older vintage garments with some polyester content are generally well made enough to compensate for their shortcomings. I have a pair of charcoal grey vintage trousers in dacron/wool blend that I love. They fit well, are well made, and stay creased even when rain soaked. I also have a vintage 1960s Brooks Brothers tan poplin wash and wear suit in poly/cotton blend that can't be beat for comfort and style on a really hot day in July.

Yeah, polyester stinks, but if it's not a double knit leisure suit, well......

3) Know when to compromise:
For the younger man in need of a good basic navy or grey suit on a tight budget, the options can be slim. Should you be wise enough to turn to thrift shopping, you've already got a one-up. If you should happen to find a good looking suit that fits well enough that doesn't feel like it's made of plastic that only cost less than $20 someplace that will get you the job and make you feel confident on a big fancy date with your girl who cares what its made from?  Style, carriage, composure, and cofidence are worth more than fabric content, brand name and country of origin any day of the week.

And yeah, if can't really tell the difference, you shouldn't be so picky. Besides...

Polyester can actually look good, no matter how strenuous the action...
Hope that helps.

Getting High on My Own Supply

Sorting through the unsold goods from the Top Shelf Flea, I ran across this somehow forgotten gem:

A nice looking tan jacket, featuring the perfect hybrid of Anglo and Northeast Traditional elements: natural shoulders and a high lapel gorge with a two button darted front; precise tailoring with just the right amount of laid back, East Coast American slouch...

All of it rendered in beautiful silk shantung herringbone. It's a little dingy, but nothing a good dry cleaning can't freshen up...

From the venerable old Chipp of New York and New Haven. It may seem at times that being up in Boston the thrift shops are awash in J. Press, Brooks Brothers and Andover Shop goods, but a fine piece from Chipp is always a rare and special treat. Fits like a glove...don't know why I ever tried to sell it,good thing nobody bought it from me.

p.s. the Shop has been fully revamped with new items for warm weather. Check it out. I promise that the next post will contain absolutely no shameless commercialism ...I hope.

Happy Memorial Day

Last weekend at Top Shelf Flea Market I met a man who told me that when he was a soldier overseas in Afghanistan he read my blog everyday....in the dessert wearing camo. The best thing about writing this blog and doing what I do has been the people I have met because of it, but nothing has ever humbled me quite like that.

Enjoy your families, but take a moment to be humble and remember why it is we all have a three day weekend to drink beer and eat hot dogs in the back yard.

p.s. the minute man tie is not for sale, but plenty of new Spring and Summer ties are up in the Shop. Enjoy 15% off your entire order using discount code MEMORIAL2012 at checkout now through midnight May 28.

The Jams

Who?
Who. That's who.

It's funny. The Brits gave the world menswear as we know it. Then we Americans took it and twisted it and give it back as our own thing, a style to be often imitated but never quite stolen.

Americans gave the world electric guitars, drum kits, and rock 'n roll. Then the Brits took it and twisted it and gave it back as their own thing, a style (punk, metal, psychedelic, etc.) to be often imitated but never quite stolen.

The New Nostalgia

Enjoying something of an early 1990s moment here, but so be it. That is, after all, soon to be the new nostalgia. And a man must keep current, even in his stylish anachronisms.
"F*ck you, that's my name!!"
Let's just hope all that coked-out, greedy *sshole stuff doesn't come back in vogue.

Bigfoot

Ermenegildo Zegna, made in Italy

Fairfax by Allen Edmonds

Fairhaven by Allen Edmonds, made in USA

Gucci bit loafers

Cole Haan, made in Italy

Bruno Magli suede split toes with Goretex rubber soles, made in Italy

All well maintained and kept polished and on shoe trees by one very careful owner, all size 12 1/2 or 13. Available now in the Shop. $80/pair, $9.95 shipping in US, $24 internationally. $500 for all of them, shipped free in US, $50 internaitionally.

p.s. Shameless, I know, but a fellas got to make a buck somehow.What's a stay at home Dad college drop out night shift liquor store guy to do? Spring/Summer neckties and tailored clothing to follow in the coming days.

Thank You

Top Shelf Flea Market V is officially in the books. Warmest thanks to each and every one of you who stopped by to take a look at what we put together. Here's to another great crowd.

p.s. for those of you who couldn't make it, look for a complete warm weather revamp of the online shop in the coming week.