Until Further Notice....

By now you've noticed that posting around here has ground nearly to a halt. Some of you have even been kind enough to email and make sure all was well on my end. It is, thanks. Allow me to give a brief explanation of what to expect from the AAW you know and love in the near future.

I've been writing this blog for just over six years now, since September of 2008, and it's been great fun for the most part.When I started, I felt that the then burgeoning #menswear blogosphere phenomenon needed a cheapskate's voice, and I voluntarily stepped into to fill that role, having honed my cheapskate skills over a lifetime. What I didn't know then was how much I enjoyed sharing my thoughts in writing. I turns out I do, a lot. I spent many years previous performing in bands and had to give that up when my children came along. I guess I didn't know how much I enjoyed having an audience either.

Writing this blog has brought many surprises into my life. I launched a business based on my yammerings here. Every now and then, somebody sent me some expensive thing for free, which was also nice. But best of all, I've met more than a few people who will be lifelong friends through this shallow little pursuit. Who knew?

In any case, after six years I find myself running out of things to say here. Add to that the fact the since August ehow.com has actually been paying me (imagine it) once a week to write for them. All this has been making it increasingly difficult to regularly deliver what you've come to expect here, and so rather than churn out pointless posts just to keep the page fresh, I think it's high time to take a rest and collect my thoughts. I'll still be active over at tumblr if you really need a Giuseppe Timore fix. 

I enjoy blogging and hope to get back into soon, with a new approach and some fresh ideas. Until then, please stand by.

p.s. an excellent new employment opportunity looms on the horizon, and as such I will sadly have to shutter the AAW brick and mortar "secret store" in the coming weeks, moving business back to online only. As such, everything in the store, both physical and online, is 25% off until further notice, Use discount code THANKYOU25 at checkout.

Size Matters

As the author of this blog and a seller of second hand menswear, I am frequently asked questions regarding the measurement and sizing of old garments. In the age of the internet, more clothing than ever is bought and sold sight unseen via places like ebay and online shops like my own. In the interest of a "Reader Questions" style post, here's a guide and explanation of how sizing works and how to use measurements to successfully shop for old clothes.

Most modern clothes are sized on a tag. These measurements can be anything as vague as "alpha sizing" (S,M,L,XL) or as specific as tailored sizing (42 Reg., for example). While helpful, these sizes are best used as a guide rather than a rigid fact. In truth, there is fluidity in such sizes, and different manufacturers or brands often use the same numbers on clothes which are not physically the same size. Add to that the fact that many older and vintage clothes are either missing these tags or were never sized that way in the first place, and things can get pretty confusing. While it's helpful to know about what "size" you are, it is infinitely more helpful to know your measurements, or even just the measurements of an article of clothing that fits well. The numbers on a measuring tape are marked out in inches (or centimeters if you live anywhere but here), and there is no arguing with them.

Jackets
Most suit jackets and sport coats are sized by chest measurement and length. For example, I generally wear a 42 Regular. The number (42) refers to the circumference of the chest, in this case 42 inches, while "Regular" refers to the length of the jacket measured down the back. Generally speaking, there are five measurements to know on a tailored jacket. The chest can measured by laying a jacket flat and measuring from armpit to armpit, or "pit to pit" as you'll often read in online listing, then doubling. Bear in mind that is a differential to be considered, and few extra inches need to be left for freedom of movement. The jackets I have that I consider 42 chest measure between 22 and 23 inches across, or between 44-45 inches around. Shoulders are measured across the back from point to point. This can vary between makers and styles, but it can't be altered, so know what fits.A little variance is ok here. For example, I can wear anything from 18-19 inches in the shoulder. Length is usually listed as Short, Regular, and Long. While there is no hard rule about these lengths, I generally consider a "regular" to be about 31 inches from the bottom of the collar to the hem of the coat, short to be about 30, and long to be about 32. Again, the terms are subjective, but the numbers are not. Sleeve length is measured from shoulder to cuff, and sometimes a waist measurement will be given by measuring across the closed buttoning  point. These can be helpful, but remember too that sleeve length and side seams are easily altered. A good seller will list how much cloth there is to accommodate these alterations, or at least be able to tell you should you ask.

Trousers
Trousers are easier, with the most important measurement of course being at the waist. This is measured much the same way as the chest of a jacket, across the waistband, doubled, with room to move. For example, what I would consider a 36 waist would actually measure about 37 inches. Length is measured from the crotch to the hem down the seam. This is easily alterable in most cases and a good seller will tell how much extra cloth there is to make adjustments. If you're looking for trim or fuller cut trousers, it's helpful to know the leg opening and thigh measurement. A leg opening between 9 and 10 inches is fairly classic, with 8 inches being trim. 13-14 inches at the thigh is classic, less would be considered trim cut. If you like a trimmer look, trousers can often be tapered in a bit, but you'll need a good tailor, not just the local dry cleaner. Remember that honesty with oneself is important. You may like to say you wear a 34 waist when you really need 36. Vanity is a funny thing. It should motivate you to wear clothes that look good rather than squeeze into uncomfortable clothing that's too tight.

These things are not only helpful in the world of online shopping, but also in the physical realm. Take a measuring tape with you to the thrift store and ignore tagged sizing. If you see something you like, measure it and see how close it comes to the measurements taken from a well fitting garment you already have. With experience, you'll begin to see the relativity in tagged sizing. I personally own and wear trousers sized from 34 to 38 inches, and jackets ranging from 40 to 44 in tagged sizes, and yet they all fit. Know measurements, not your "sizes".

p.s. A Note on Blog Posts

You may have noticed that posting here has become less frequent, lately only happening once a week, usually on Saturday. As some of you may know, I have taken a writing job with the style blog at ehow.com. This job, paired with the running of both my online and brick and mortar shop, has made it difficult to keep posting here as frequently as I would like. Going forward, I will be working out a more regular posting schedule for the blog, likely twice a week. Until then keep checking in and bear with me. I truly appreciate your readership and will continue to offer the kind of content you've come to expect. Thank you.

Thank You

Just over a year ago, I handed over the first rent check on this little empty room. A few weeks later, I had done my best to dress it up, unlocked the door, and the brick-and-mortar Affordable Wardrobe "secret shop" was born.

I'm still here, and the place is constantly bursting at the seems with an ever changing flow of wonderful old clothes. I've seen a lot of great stuff in that time, learned a lot, and made many new friends. I'd like to thank each one of you who contributed to my Indiegogo campaign, visited the shop, consigned with me, read this blog, or supported AAW in any way. It's been a lot of work and a real labor of love, but it would be nothing without my customers and readers.

To help celebrate, everything in the Shop, both online and in person, is 20% off through midnight Monday 28 July. Use discount code ANNIVERSARY2014 at checkout.

AAW for ehow.com

I'm pleased to announce that I am now a contributing writer to the style page at ehow.com. Read my first published article, on the versatility of the classic navy blazer, here. Thanks to everyone who reads the blog enough to put me on the map.

One For The Good Guys, part 2

I'm sure many of you remember the article I wrote a while back about the new mayor of Lawrence, MA, and his dress code for city hall employees requiring them to dress like grown-ups. At the time, I called for anyone willing to show their support for Mr. Mayor to send me a tie which I would present on our collective behalf. What followed led me down an unexpected path, with a pleasant surprise as its conclusion.

In the week following the original piece, I collected nearly 50 ties from among my readers, a gift for which I thank each of you who contributed. Then I got an email from Paul Fredrick, an online clothing retailer out of Pennsylvania, saying they thought this was a great cause and wanted to be involved. I wasn't quite sure what that might mean, but agreed to be in touch with them after contacting the mayor's office.

The next day, I spoke with the kind assistant to Mayor Rivera. She informed me that the mayor appreciated our offer, but that there was a place where this gift might fill a bigger need. She directed me to the Notre Dame Cristo Rey high school in Lawrence. It's a Catholic school that focuses on lower income kids, getting them office jobs as part of a work/study program that helps defray the cost of tuition. Not only do these kids where ties to school, but also to work. Already they're doing better than grown people with government office jobs. Being from  lower income families, the mayor's office felt these kids needed the help more, and I agreed completely.

I informed the representative from Paul Fredrick of this, not sure whether they would still get involved. They did, sending me 350 ties (!!!) as a donation to the school. I was flabbergasted, but my reaction was nothing compared to that of the dean at the school. I dropped the ties off yesterday, in a box so heavy I could barely lift it alone. They are destined to be given to the incoming freshman class.

When those kids grow up and take jobs in places like Lawrence City Hall, or anywhere else for that matter, I doubt we'll have to "force" them to dress, or behave, appropriately. Chalk one up for the good guys.

My sincerest thanks to Mayor Rivera's office, Paul Fredrick, and each of you who donated ties. Generosity and charity never go out of style.

Secret Shop

The live version of the An Affordable Wardrobe Shop, or what the kids and I have taken to calling the "secret shop", will have a preliminary launch this Saturday, 27 July, from 10am-2pm. If you're in the Boston area, drop by and introduce yourself, enjoy an Aperol Spritz, hear some jazz on vinyl, and maybe even buy something.

The racks are jammed full of great Summer goods, with a little bit of tweed and other heavy stuff for the forward looking among you. Best of all, they haven't fallen of the wall ... yet.

And with some artwork on the walls, a comfy chair, and a KLH record player, the room is feeling nice and cozy. It's comfortably air conditioned, making it a great place to wear a jacket and tie for no good reason on an 85 degree day.

click on map for directions

Located in the heart of Davis Square, Somerville, above the Burren pub. Locals know what a great place Davis Square has become to spend a few hours of a lovely Saturday. With plenty of great places to eat and drink, as well as interesting shops, mostly independent and local, it's worth the trip. Drop in and see me, leave your favorite shoes to be fixed at Savas Shoe Repair, get a shave at Dente's Barber Shop, grab some lunch and a beer at any one of a number of places, and if you feel like staying, catch a movie at the historic Somerville Theatre. Easily accessible by car, bike, or public transportation via the red line to the Davis stop.

AN AFFORDABLE WARDROBE

249 ELM STREET, SECOND FLOOR 

SOMERVILLE, MASS. 02144

SAT. 27 JULY 2013, 10am-2pm

This is something of a trial run. I will be keeping regular hours there soon, which I will post here and on Facebook as things fall into place. As you may well imagine, I've got plenty to do putting the final toucheson things, so there will be no new blog posts here until after the weekend. I look forward to seeing you this Saturday. Please allow me once again to thank everyone who helped me get this going, purchased anything from me, or just read my blog. I owe all of this to you.

Shop Updates

Allow me to apologize for my recent absence. It takes a lot more than one might think to ready a single room of only a few hundred square feet for active service as a"secret" store. As such, every spare minute (of which I have few these days) has been spent there. But work is progressing nicely.

We've got a coat of new paint on the walls, a nice tan known officially as "tea and honey", should provide a good back drop for tweed, tartan, and the like.

These curtains are actually just a few yards of cotton gingham from Ikea, with the edges finished with stitchwitch and a warm iron. Real curtains are awfully damn expensive, don't you know.

Good fortune smiled on me in the form of this freestanding mirror, found for $4.99 at a local thrift. This is an especially good find, since thrift shops almost never sell these, preferring instead to keep them for in-store use.

This early 1960s credenza/hutch was a bit pricey for my usual range, but I think it was worth every penny of the $100 it cost me. Think of the piece of junk you'd get for that price in new furniture. Should make a good display for knitwear and other folded items, as well as provide a hiding place for paperwork and liquor (shh).

This tatty old rug was purchased new by my grandmother in the 60s, then moved upsatirs to our living room when I was a kid, where it proceeded to spend the next twenty years. The last ten or so it spent in the attic, gathering dust.

Mrs. G hates it, but she doesn't have the same affinity for the threadbare WASP aesthetic that I do. Besides, this is a men's place, best to have at least one thing the wife hates around.

I'll be back on track with the usual drivel soon. Also, look for more new Summer goods in the online Shop in the days to come.

Once again, I offer my sincerest gratitude to all my readers and customers, as well as all who helped in the fund raiser. The fact that this is taking shape for real is more than I could have imagined not too long ago, and I look forward to greeting you all there in person soon. A "soft opening" should be happening very soon. Stay tuned.

AAW Live

It is with the greatest pleasure and the humblest thanks that I proudly announce that An Affordable Wardrobe has a (soon to be) new home, located in a discreet second floor location in Davis Square, Somerville. Look for a live version of the Shop soon. As always,my undying thanks and gratitude go out not only to those who contributed to our recent crowdfunding campaign, but each and every one of you who have read and stuck with me these last five years. Here's to the next level,or "taking it to the bridge" as the kids used to say! Details to follow.

Gratitude

Our Indiegogo campaign has closed, and I would like to express my deepest thanks to all who helped out, whether with contributions or just spreading the word. We managed to raise $2690 from 67 contributors, a nice bit of seed money to get things started. I'm looking into a couple of nice locations, and hope to be have a more permanent version of the AAW shop set up by September.

As I said before, asking for money like this is not something that's easy for me. Not only to I appreciate your help with the fundraiser but also your patience in having to listen to me about it. AAW would be nothing without you.

Thank you.

Another One in the Bag

Top Shelf Flea Market 6 is officially in the bag, and I am truly grateful for the terrific response we had from customers and vendors alike. While it's true that it is a giant undertaking on my part to pull this off, I can't do any of it without the hard work of each and every vendor and the support of readers and community members. Thank you everybody, and here's looking forward to  a great Top Shelf 7.

p.s. I was pretty busy all day, and barely had time to snap a photo. If anyone has better shots to share, please email me at anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com and I'll be happy to share them here.

p.p.s. the Shop is back up and running, with many new items continuing to go up for sale in the next few days. Stop by and stay tuned.

Milestones and Gratitude

A few days ago, An Affordable Wardrobe passed the two million mark in  number of page views. I can't state how humble and I grateful I am to all of you. In celebration, I offer this old school, original style AAW post:

With temperatures tending towards cool and comfortable, it's a perfect time to indulge in some classic New England style layering. It being early in the season, I chose to do this with a collection of lighter weight pieces, all of them old favorites from the closet, save one. My favorite "gossamer" blazer by Southwick ($5.99) has been a near constant companion throughout the Summer, but a man could do worse. A pair of lightweight tan worsted trousers with forward pleats by Kilgore,Stanley and French (ed. Kilgour, French and Stanbury. Thank you, Zach.) ($4.99) is often paired with it.

Non-iron shirts may be a sacrilege, it's true. But this striped number from Brooks Brothers ($5.49) has served me well, especially under a sweater. The oh-so-pretentious ascot ($1.99) makes a cameo appearance. But these are all trusted old friends from the AAW closet. It's the merino wool pullover in gold that I'm all jazzed about.

Made in Ireland for J. Press, $1.99 at a local thrift shop. A welcome and useful new piece, just in time for Fall.

Long time readers may remember when all my posts read this way, prices and all. Over the course of five years, this blog has evolved. While I try my best to continue to focus on dressing well for the man of small means, I've let the blog dictate itself a bit. Family, food, the raising of children, and my own take on life as a mixture of old values and modern convenience frequently take the fore. Through this blog I've managed to launch a small but successful online business, and your continued support is what makes it possible. The Top Shelf Flea Market has been going strong for three years, with it's sixth iteration currently in the planning stages for October. Not bad for a blog that started when some good friends cajoled me, at the time largely computer illiterate, into the then budding menswear blogging community as the voice of the stylish poor. Two million visits later and we're still going strong.

Thank you, more than you know.

Thank You

Top Shelf Flea Market V is officially in the books. Warmest thanks to each and every one of you who stopped by to take a look at what we put together. Here's to another great crowd.

p.s. for those of you who couldn't make it, look for a complete warm weather revamp of the online shop in the coming week.