Brushing Off My Tails (alternate edition)

In the first weeks of having my Shop open, the going was pretty slow. One fine Saturday as I sat alone in the place, I decided to go downstairs and get some fresh air. After about ten minutes, I went back up to find Jade Sylvan, a friendly young lady (young fellow? I'm as open minded as anyone in Massachusetts, but I admit the terminology still confuses me sometimes. Beg patience) from the yoga studio down the hall, in my shop dressed in a vintage 1920s tail suit I had at the time. I have a weakness for old formal wear, but as a businessman I realize I should avoid it. It's so hard to sell, given that we live in a time where "dressed up" means little more than tucking in your shirt and wearing your "good jeans." This particular suit had been with me a long time. It's hard enough finding a guy who fits a size 36 short, never mind one who will ever attend a party in full evening dress. Imagine my pleasant surprise then when this affable drag king and I crossed paths. Not only did the suit fit her perfectly, but she just happened to have a release party for her new book, Kissing Oscar Wilde, coming up, the perfect occasion to be an to be a drag king in an antique suit.

Of course, dressing in drag is nothing new for bold women with strong personalities. Dietrich and Baker showed us the way back in the old days, when suits like this were new, and actually worn with some regularity, mostly by men of course. It may not be as shocking to us now as it was then, and that's a good thing. It means we're collectively getting over it. But it's still just as cool.

Marlene Dietrich in men's full evening dress, 1930s

Josephine Baker in men's full evening dress, 1920s

Jade may not be as famous (yet) as these two, but she certainly deserves to be ranked in their company. I am pleasantly surprised, and honored, that nearly one hundred years after the trail was blazed and this suit was first tailored, something I provided wound up being a part of it too.

The Ghost of Fred, Again

The ghost of our man Fred Astaire is perhaps an ever looming presence when one is writing about menswear. Occasionally, he manifests himself especially clearly. I can't help but think of him any time white tie and tails is mentioned.

On 8 May, I posted an album of photos of a vintage 1930s full suit of evening wear, tailcoat and trousers. I also said that it would be posted here for auction in the coming week. Well, two and a half months later here it is:

A beautifully cut piece in excellent condition for its age. My best educated guess puts this garment in the late 1930s/ early 1940s, back when there were still a fair number of men who had occasion to wear full evening dress. The chest measures just over 20 inches across, and will fit a man who normally wears a 40 long, with the tails falling just to the knee on a man of about 6 feet. Sleeves measure 26 inches, shoulders 19 across.



Beautifully constructed with a nipped waist, curved back seams and pleated tails. This is the most complicated piece of menswear outside of military dress uniforms to see any regular use in the last hundred years or so, and truly an excellent example of the category.

Note the hooked vent, a traditional detail on such a coat and an indicator of it's age.

Complex darting and seam work typical of a close fitting "body jacket", expertly executed.

Broad peaked lapels faced in old fashioned thickly corded grosgrain silk. The wool is jet black and fairly thick, almost the weight of a smooth flannel. Not a piece to buy now and wear tomorrow, but a real stunner come New Year's Eve, or just for the opera and theatre season.

The trousers measure 16 inches across the waist, fitting a 33/34 inch waist. They have a very high 15 inch rise, which keeps them in line with the short waist of the jackets front. Double pleated, elegantly full cut through the legs, plain hems (of course), 32 inch inseam with up to 2 inches to let down.  Held up by braces attached to the outside of the waist band.



Button fly closure,

About an inch of fabric to be had in waist,



Matching grosgrain silk stripe down the outseam,

From Richman Brothers, a long gone shop formerly located on Madison Avenue that specialized in formal wear.

I'll be accepting bids on this suit via email at anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com throughout the week. So if you're tall and thin, and you have any reason at all to wear such a thing, make me an offer. The last time I had such a thing for sale, it came to a showdown between a concert pianist and a professional tap dancer. Maybe this time we can get a violin player and a magician...or at least someone clothes mad with enough dash to pull it off. Happy bidding!

This could be you.....

24 July 2012 : SOLD That one went up quick, and the bidding is now closed. Thank you one and all for your interest. Congratulations, Mr. D.N. Wear it in good health.

p.s. for a full range of much easier to wear items in a range of sizes, don't forget to visit our booth at the Davis Flea this Sunday, 29 July, 10a.m.-4 p.m.

Showdown: The Results

The formal suit has been sold. I thank the many of you who showed such enthusiastic interest in it, and I am most gratified that so many of you had a real use for the thing. Part of what I do around here is social work, finding good, loving homes for the orphaned garments of a more formal time. In the end, it came to a showdown between a tap dancer and a classical musician (not joking). The musician won.





True, this may not be Fred Astaire and Artur Rubinstein we're talking about, but it's nice to know that this suit will in fact continue a useful, appropriate existence. Congratulations, Mr. C****. May it help you reach new heights of musical virtuosity...or at the very least make the other members of the orchestra jealous.

Brushing Off My Tails....

Every so often, an item comes into my possession that is simple to precious to be put up for sale directly in the Shop. Oddly, the last time this happened was with an antique morning coat, and this time it is an equally beautiful antique set of evening tails, not far unlike the suit worn by our man Fred Astaire so often in the 1930s.

Honestly, I sometimes feel that I may actually live to see the demise of garments such as these, and that's a shame. In a world where "dressed up" to often connotes merely a tucked in shirt and a pair of socks, we could use a little more formality, just to make our most special occasions seem, you know, special, or something.

So here we have a vintage tail coat, possibly 1930s, though maybe not that old. It's rendered in hefty but soft black wool, with lapels faced in grosgrain silk, grosgrain covered button too match. 38 inch chest, with about a 32 waist and sleeves 26 inches from shoulder to cuff. The armholes are high and the lines tight and sharp, for an thin athletic fellow of about 5'10".

See what I mean about the lines being sharp and tight? Clearly, there will be no slouching or incorrect posture in a garment such as this. But then again, any man would stand up straighter when he looks this good.

Cloth covered button at the back, a hooked vent, waist seam and closed pleats running the length of each tail. The construction of this thing reminds me of very old military dress uniforms.

Note the curved seams running up the back from the waist to the shoulder.

Traditional six button front with wide peaked lapels and a slanted breast pocket. There is a loop to hold a flower stem behind the left lapel just below the button hole.

Four button cuffs with faux button holes...

and some serious formal darts to give the unmistakable shape of a proper tail coat. The detailing and workmanship are off the charts here.

Complete with matching trousers, 32 inch waist with a high 15 inch rise, 30 inch inseam with about an inch to let down, featuring a watch pocket on the right and forward pleats...

Button fly and a v-notch at the back of the waist band.

A silk ribbon matching the lapels runs down the out seams, and the legs are cut somewhat wide with a slight taper. Think of all those Apparel Arts illustrations you've seen.

From Roger Kent. Perfunctory research tells me that Roger Kent was a men's shop with three locations in New York, most notably on Madison Avenue near Brooks Brothers, J. Press and F.R. Tripler, a store in New Haven, and another in Philadelphia. You can guess who the clientele must have been. Oddly, this was unearthed in the same place as the fancy robe I recently found. You have to wonder if it was the same guy.

The condition is excellent, though of course a pressing would be in order. Other than one tiny hole, less than 1/16 inch in diameter near the outer pleat on the right leg, there are no discernible defects.I'm entertaining offers on this suit. Offers and/or questions may be directed to anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com. Please remember, a slim man of approximately 5'10", 38 chest, 32 waist will fit into this suit. Only the suit (jacket and trousers) are included, not the necessary dress shirt, white tie and white pique waistcoat, or for that matter, top hat.

Please, someone give this a good home and find some way to wear it. Things like this don't to die, and your gal will be thrilled with whatever place you can take her to that would merit such a suit.

After all, this could be you: