Rules of Thrifting : Cosmetic Surgery

There are a lot of tricks to thrift shopping well, and though I may have a tendency to repeat myself here from time to time, it's simply because these things can't be overstated. One of them is that it is essential to develop an eye for potential, to know what can and can't be repaired or altered, and to see past a bit of additional time and trouble that may be involved to see a final outcome down the road. It's not that different from understanding that a new suit is best worn altered and not straight off the hanger the day you buy it. Following is an extreme case in point.

On a recent trip to the thrift shop, I found an excellent old Chesterfield coat, very heavyweight, the kind of cloth you don't see too often anymore. It was, of course, shoved into a rack brimming with mostly crappy parkas and ugly, dated overcoats from the late 80s and early 90s. Single breasted with peaked lapels, and clearly quite old from a distance, it was of such better quality than the things surrounding it that it was practically glowing. 

Velvet piping at the cuffs and breast pocket, a detail I haven't encountered often. Clearly this is old, and likely worn over morning clothes (striped trousers, cutaway coat, top hat, etc.) by it's original owner. Fits me like a glove, so it looks like I'll be keeping this one, though I will more likely wear it over a grey or navy suit, on a very cold day. True, I do already have an excellent lighter weight Chesterfield, but how could I pass this up? What do you take me for, a sensible normal person?

Produced in a tailor shop in Boston, a long gone place I've never heard of until now. Internet homework turns up nothing about this shop, though it will point you to plenty of great footage of jazz pianist Oscar Peterson, also not a bad thing.

Made in 1935 no less. Now we've got something that has value as an antique as well as just a fine piece of clothing. 

$10, as-is. If a thrift shop is marking goods "as-is" look them over carefully. Chances are there's something majorly wrong. This is charity after all, not ebay. "As-is" means different things in different settings. So what's wrong with this coat?

One button has been badly replaced, but I actually found the missing original button in one of the pockets. No, that ain;t it.

The velvet collar is completely destroyed. Not just worn, fully wrecked. Things like this are a deal breaker for most people, which really is too bad. I'll go to a fabric store and get a piece of good velvet, take it to my tailor, and have him replace the whole collar. Purely cosmetic surgery. Even after I pay him, I'll have a stunning garment for less than $50. What new coat can you get for that? Besides, I'll have rescued an antique thing from the garbage dump, and effectively restored it for many years continued use, an act I find rewarding in itself. The way this coat is made, it's likely I'll wear it through it's 100th Winter, and that's kind of priceless.

Look for part two of this post in a couple of weeks when it comes home from the hospital.

p.s. If you're looking for a Chesterfield coat and are a 38 regular, I have another excellent one made by H. Huntsman and Sons of Savile Row.currently listed on ebay. Auction ends Friday 3 January.

Good Morning

photo : internet

Getting married in 1939? Have an audience with the Queen? Maybe you're invited to Royal Ascot next year? Wear a trim 38 regular? Then I have a suit for you.

Recently, I was in New Hampshire sorting through the collection of a serious vintage clothing collector. I cam away with a number of really great items, but the best thing among them was unquestionably this full morning dress suit, made in 1937. For all the great items I find through these channels for myself or my shop, it's these rare vintage formal pieces that are far and away the most fun to come across.

The suit is complete, and in excellent shape for its age. Here we have the cutaway coat in soft charcoal grey flannel, with beautifully cut peak lapels and close fitting, darted body construction, and flat front wool trousers in black and grey stripes.

The back features the curved seams at the shoulders indicative of quality in such a garment...

Hooked center vent and closed pleat running the length of each tail. Split body construction, the right way to do it.

The lining needs new stitches at the seams in a few spots, but there are no tears. Note the taped flannel sweat guards at the armpit.

Dated July 13 1937, consigned from the granddaughter of its original owner, recently dry cleaned.

Included is the original matching waistcoat, with six button closure and satin back...

as well as this additional waistcoat in dove grey doeskin, an excellent example of bygone tailoring, with peaked lapels and six button double breasted closure.

There is one tear on the back, along the seam. Easily repaired and worth doing on such a rare and special garment.

Vintage 1930s from Rogers Peet Company.



The trousers are made of a similar soft flannel in a grey and black stripe, the classic pattern for formal day trousers. Flat front with button fly, brace buttons and (oddly) belt loops. They are in excellent condition as well, though there are some very slight marks on the seat showing where they have been let out. The hems are plain, with a slight angle cut.

As I've done in the past with formal items as special and rare as these, I am offering these four pieces as a unit here rather than in my online shop. Remember, they have value as antiques as well as just clothing.

The coat will fit a man who wear a 38 regular, with a trim waist of about 32. The trousers measure 34 waist, though they have been let out, 32 being their original size. Inseam is 31 inches. Whether you've got an event coming up that might actually merit such an outfit, or you're just a serious collector of real antique menswear, please consider giving this suit a good home. Interested parties may contact me with offers at anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com. Bids will be accepted through the end of the week.

Update: this item has been moved to Ebay. Interested buyers may bid for it here.

p.s. plenty of other new items in the Shop this week. Stop by.

Brushing Off My Tails....

Every so often, an item comes into my possession that is simple to precious to be put up for sale directly in the Shop. Oddly, the last time this happened was with an antique morning coat, and this time it is an equally beautiful antique set of evening tails, not far unlike the suit worn by our man Fred Astaire so often in the 1930s.

Honestly, I sometimes feel that I may actually live to see the demise of garments such as these, and that's a shame. In a world where "dressed up" to often connotes merely a tucked in shirt and a pair of socks, we could use a little more formality, just to make our most special occasions seem, you know, special, or something.

So here we have a vintage tail coat, possibly 1930s, though maybe not that old. It's rendered in hefty but soft black wool, with lapels faced in grosgrain silk, grosgrain covered button too match. 38 inch chest, with about a 32 waist and sleeves 26 inches from shoulder to cuff. The armholes are high and the lines tight and sharp, for an thin athletic fellow of about 5'10".

See what I mean about the lines being sharp and tight? Clearly, there will be no slouching or incorrect posture in a garment such as this. But then again, any man would stand up straighter when he looks this good.

Cloth covered button at the back, a hooked vent, waist seam and closed pleats running the length of each tail. The construction of this thing reminds me of very old military dress uniforms.

Note the curved seams running up the back from the waist to the shoulder.

Traditional six button front with wide peaked lapels and a slanted breast pocket. There is a loop to hold a flower stem behind the left lapel just below the button hole.

Four button cuffs with faux button holes...

and some serious formal darts to give the unmistakable shape of a proper tail coat. The detailing and workmanship are off the charts here.

Complete with matching trousers, 32 inch waist with a high 15 inch rise, 30 inch inseam with about an inch to let down, featuring a watch pocket on the right and forward pleats...

Button fly and a v-notch at the back of the waist band.

A silk ribbon matching the lapels runs down the out seams, and the legs are cut somewhat wide with a slight taper. Think of all those Apparel Arts illustrations you've seen.

From Roger Kent. Perfunctory research tells me that Roger Kent was a men's shop with three locations in New York, most notably on Madison Avenue near Brooks Brothers, J. Press and F.R. Tripler, a store in New Haven, and another in Philadelphia. You can guess who the clientele must have been. Oddly, this was unearthed in the same place as the fancy robe I recently found. You have to wonder if it was the same guy.

The condition is excellent, though of course a pressing would be in order. Other than one tiny hole, less than 1/16 inch in diameter near the outer pleat on the right leg, there are no discernible defects.I'm entertaining offers on this suit. Offers and/or questions may be directed to anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com. Please remember, a slim man of approximately 5'10", 38 chest, 32 waist will fit into this suit. Only the suit (jacket and trousers) are included, not the necessary dress shirt, white tie and white pique waistcoat, or for that matter, top hat.

Please, someone give this a good home and find some way to wear it. Things like this don't to die, and your gal will be thrilled with whatever place you can take her to that would merit such a suit.

After all, this could be you: