Good Morning

photo : internet

Getting married in 1939? Have an audience with the Queen? Maybe you're invited to Royal Ascot next year? Wear a trim 38 regular? Then I have a suit for you.

Recently, I was in New Hampshire sorting through the collection of a serious vintage clothing collector. I cam away with a number of really great items, but the best thing among them was unquestionably this full morning dress suit, made in 1937. For all the great items I find through these channels for myself or my shop, it's these rare vintage formal pieces that are far and away the most fun to come across.

The suit is complete, and in excellent shape for its age. Here we have the cutaway coat in soft charcoal grey flannel, with beautifully cut peak lapels and close fitting, darted body construction, and flat front wool trousers in black and grey stripes.

The back features the curved seams at the shoulders indicative of quality in such a garment...

Hooked center vent and closed pleat running the length of each tail. Split body construction, the right way to do it.

The lining needs new stitches at the seams in a few spots, but there are no tears. Note the taped flannel sweat guards at the armpit.

Dated July 13 1937, consigned from the granddaughter of its original owner, recently dry cleaned.

Included is the original matching waistcoat, with six button closure and satin back...

as well as this additional waistcoat in dove grey doeskin, an excellent example of bygone tailoring, with peaked lapels and six button double breasted closure.

There is one tear on the back, along the seam. Easily repaired and worth doing on such a rare and special garment.

Vintage 1930s from Rogers Peet Company.



The trousers are made of a similar soft flannel in a grey and black stripe, the classic pattern for formal day trousers. Flat front with button fly, brace buttons and (oddly) belt loops. They are in excellent condition as well, though there are some very slight marks on the seat showing where they have been let out. The hems are plain, with a slight angle cut.

As I've done in the past with formal items as special and rare as these, I am offering these four pieces as a unit here rather than in my online shop. Remember, they have value as antiques as well as just clothing.

The coat will fit a man who wear a 38 regular, with a trim waist of about 32. The trousers measure 34 waist, though they have been let out, 32 being their original size. Inseam is 31 inches. Whether you've got an event coming up that might actually merit such an outfit, or you're just a serious collector of real antique menswear, please consider giving this suit a good home. Interested parties may contact me with offers at anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com. Bids will be accepted through the end of the week.

Update: this item has been moved to Ebay. Interested buyers may bid for it here.

p.s. plenty of other new items in the Shop this week. Stop by.

The Ghost of Fred, Again

The ghost of our man Fred Astaire is perhaps an ever looming presence when one is writing about menswear. Occasionally, he manifests himself especially clearly. I can't help but think of him any time white tie and tails is mentioned.

On 8 May, I posted an album of photos of a vintage 1930s full suit of evening wear, tailcoat and trousers. I also said that it would be posted here for auction in the coming week. Well, two and a half months later here it is:

A beautifully cut piece in excellent condition for its age. My best educated guess puts this garment in the late 1930s/ early 1940s, back when there were still a fair number of men who had occasion to wear full evening dress. The chest measures just over 20 inches across, and will fit a man who normally wears a 40 long, with the tails falling just to the knee on a man of about 6 feet. Sleeves measure 26 inches, shoulders 19 across.



Beautifully constructed with a nipped waist, curved back seams and pleated tails. This is the most complicated piece of menswear outside of military dress uniforms to see any regular use in the last hundred years or so, and truly an excellent example of the category.

Note the hooked vent, a traditional detail on such a coat and an indicator of it's age.

Complex darting and seam work typical of a close fitting "body jacket", expertly executed.

Broad peaked lapels faced in old fashioned thickly corded grosgrain silk. The wool is jet black and fairly thick, almost the weight of a smooth flannel. Not a piece to buy now and wear tomorrow, but a real stunner come New Year's Eve, or just for the opera and theatre season.

The trousers measure 16 inches across the waist, fitting a 33/34 inch waist. They have a very high 15 inch rise, which keeps them in line with the short waist of the jackets front. Double pleated, elegantly full cut through the legs, plain hems (of course), 32 inch inseam with up to 2 inches to let down.  Held up by braces attached to the outside of the waist band.



Button fly closure,

About an inch of fabric to be had in waist,



Matching grosgrain silk stripe down the outseam,

From Richman Brothers, a long gone shop formerly located on Madison Avenue that specialized in formal wear.

I'll be accepting bids on this suit via email at anaffordablewardrobe@yahoo.com throughout the week. So if you're tall and thin, and you have any reason at all to wear such a thing, make me an offer. The last time I had such a thing for sale, it came to a showdown between a concert pianist and a professional tap dancer. Maybe this time we can get a violin player and a magician...or at least someone clothes mad with enough dash to pull it off. Happy bidding!

This could be you.....

24 July 2012 : SOLD That one went up quick, and the bidding is now closed. Thank you one and all for your interest. Congratulations, Mr. D.N. Wear it in good health.

p.s. for a full range of much easier to wear items in a range of sizes, don't forget to visit our booth at the Davis Flea this Sunday, 29 July, 10a.m.-4 p.m.

Showdown: The Results

The formal suit has been sold. I thank the many of you who showed such enthusiastic interest in it, and I am most gratified that so many of you had a real use for the thing. Part of what I do around here is social work, finding good, loving homes for the orphaned garments of a more formal time. In the end, it came to a showdown between a tap dancer and a classical musician (not joking). The musician won.





True, this may not be Fred Astaire and Artur Rubinstein we're talking about, but it's nice to know that this suit will in fact continue a useful, appropriate existence. Congratulations, Mr. C****. May it help you reach new heights of musical virtuosity...or at the very least make the other members of the orchestra jealous.