Follow Up: The Knot Standard Jacket

I am more than a bit overdue with this post, but here is the follow up of the revisions to my jacket from Knot Standard. To review, Knot Standard is yet another of the growing number of companies offering "online custom". Having had less than good experiences in this realm before, I decided to give them a chance and took them up on their offer of a free jacket back in July. 

I was impressed with the company then. The communication was great, the website easily navigated, and the jacket was of quality cloth and construction and arrived fairly quickly. The trouble was that the shoulders were cut too narrow and the length of the coat was a little long. After a very cordial correspondence with them on the matter, they remade my jacket and the new one arrived about a month later.

I must say I am more than impressed. The new jacket has been adjusted perfectly, and I look forward to wearing it next Summer. Besides getting a quality garment at was is effectively a reasonable price ($395) the level of service was something that you don't see much anymore. That's worth as much as the jacket to me.

I may  not have paid for it, but I'd have to say that Knot Standard is worth every penny. Their prices rival that of many ready to wear brands of lesser quality, and the service is great. If you're not one to scour the dirty thrift shops like me, but you're less than  satisfied with what your money gets you at retail these days, give them a try.

Free Stuff: Knot Standard, part 1

The world of so-called "online custom" has exploded in recent years, and as a lover of fine clothes who is also a consummate cheapskate, I want to believe that while this is in no way the same as real bespoke, that someone will hit it well enough that it could at least be a viable option for well crafted clothes made of good fabric at a price that is at least imaginable for many men. A few months back I was contacted by Knot Standard about doing a review of one of their jackets, and decided to give them a a go. Despite my less than glowing experience in the past, I really want to believe that this can work if you know how to pull it off right.

Knot Standard's ordering process is like many others in that it asks you to input a very specific set of measurements in order to cut a "pattern" from which to make your garment. If I've learned anything from bad experiences it's this: you can't measure yourself properly, and neither can your significant other. This time out, I wrote down all the measurements they asked for and had my tailor take them for me. This not only ensures a more accurate and impartial set of numbers, but in a way gets closer to actual custom, in that a professional took my measurements, even if he wasn't the same person who made the final garment.

Within five weeks or so of placing the order, my jacket arrived. I chose a cobalt blue 100% linen fabric in a slubby herringbone weave by Holland and Sherry. Upon opening the box, I was immediately impressed. The cloth was high quality, the construction was excellent, and all my specific detail requests were met exactly, in this case: 3/2 darted front, natural shoulders, side vents, three open patch pockets, two button surgeon cuffs, and a partial lining. See below:

 Note the correct "old style" button placement, with a high top button in line with the breast pocket.

 Blue and white gingham bemberg lining is a plus, as well as properly taped exposed edges.

A two button surgeon cuff is more than a bit unusual, but they did it, and did it well at that, no questions asked. Check that slub.

As for fit the jacket was very close. But the only troubling thing was the fact that the shoulders were a whiff too tight. Not much, but enough to be a thing that would prevent me from wearing this jacket much.So I contacted my man at the place and told him. At first, he asked that I consult a tailor and offered up to $75 to cover alterations. I replied that the shoulders were just too tight, but added that as this was a gratis garment I didn't want to be greedy and demand a remake. My man than replied that this was nonsense, and of course they would remake my jacket to fit. His only regret was that it will take an additional 4-6 weeksto complete the task, and that by the time I receive that second jacket, Summer will be over and it will be too late to wear it.

Ah well, there's always next year.

The price of this jacket would have been $395. That's no small change for a cheapskate. However, this jacket is extremely well constructed of excellent fabric and was delivered in relatively short order. That jacket you might get in the store at Joe Banks or Mens Wearhouse for that same price? This is miles better. And while I did have fit issues, customer service and communication have been great with these guys. So far, so good. Can't wait to see how the replacement works out.

Free Stuff: Combatant Gentleman

A while back, I was contacted by Combatant Gentleman about doing a review of some of their clothes. I get a lot of these requests lately, and decline more often than I accept, but I always do a bit of homework first to see if its something readers of this blog might appreciate. After an initial look at CG's website, I decided to decline, as their clothes had a very sleek, modern look that isn't quite my speed. But the kind folks there politely persisted, and so I accepted a suit, shirt, tie, and sweater in sizes that fit a friend of mine who not only has a  personal style more in keeping with the CG look, but also has more need of a new suit than I likely ever will again at this point.

(friend JD in a suit, shirt and tie for Combatant Gentleman. Note: trousers are not hemmed, just rolled under for the photo)

Combatant Gentleman offers a limited line of suits, jacket, trousers, shirts and accessories at fairly low prices. Part of their business plan is transparency about production, so each item tells the provenance of both its materials and manufacture. Shipping was fast, and included a label for free return shipping, as well as a reorder sheet if any sizes needed to be exchanged. In the case of suits, trousers and jackets are ordered separately, which helps minimize alterations. I must say their sizing runs very true. I took JD's measurements, and did the ordering after he chose the suit he liked, and as you can see in the above photo, no alterations are needed other than having the trousers hemmed. The styling is trim and modern, though not tight and over the top.

The fabric comes from a mill in Italy and has a nice heft to it without being heavy. Hacking pockets are a detail I personally could do without on a suit like this, but they are well executed. Overall, I'd say this suit is a good value. The fabric is nice and the construction is fine, better than many low level mall store suits. At $160 I think it's worth it. It's priced at or below many suits from H&M, for example, but feels much less like it's held together with spit and scotch tape. The quality is far superior to one of my failed forays in online custom.

Combatant Gentleman would be a nice option for a young, thin guy with a leaning toward fashionable clothing who needs to build a basic wardrobe on a limited budget, say for his first office job out of college. I thought that might be an accurate description of at least some of the readers here which is why I chose to review them. Though the clothes are on the trim side, they would be acceptable in most office environments, especially their solid navy or charcoal grey suits. True, you could get something better for the same or less by shopping thrift or buying from ebay or dealers like me, but that isn't always an option. I think if you need a serviceable suit for short money on short order, Combatant Gentleman would be one of the better options at this level.

Free Stuff : Passaggio Cravatte

A while back, I was graciously offered a tie to review by Gianni Cerutti of Passaggio Cravatte. I had heard so many good things about them, and never having owned an Italian seven fold tie, I accepted. Besides, the broken English of whatever translator he used in his emails, all of which began "Hello, Dear", was something I couldn't refuse.

His process was in depth and friendly. After we agreed to work together, he sent me over 200 high resolution photos of vintage fabrics he has on hand, silks, grenadines, knits in wool and cashmere,you name it. In many cases, each fabric is only enough for a few ties. After some deliberation, I settled on a soft cashmere in burgundy, brown, and tan tic weave. I gave him the length and width of a favorite tie of mine and waited excitedly for my tie to arrive.

In a matter of only two short weeks, my tie had arrived. The cashmere was softer than I could have imagined, and the construction is indeed superb. All Gianni's ties are made to order, completely by hand, in his small studio in Naples. The tie is unlined, with a rolled tip and seven fold construction, which gives it a nice heft yet lets it hang very softly when tied. I hate to sound maudlin, but it really is something of a work of art. In person, there is no denying the superior quality this tie has in relation to nearly all of my others, that there is something special about this one is obvious from a distance (that is, to a clothing nerd who thinks too much about these things anyway). The only other tie I have that comes close is a wool and cashmere blend made in Italy by Paul Stuart.

As you can imagine, these things do not come cheap. This tie would have sold for 195 Euro, or roughly $235. No small chunk of change, and frankly a hard thing for me to justify endorsing on a blog about being cheap. But we need to consider it in context I suppose. Ralph Lauren Purple Label sells ties for upwards of $220, but there are a lot of each of them. The tie I ordered is the only like it in existence, and that's at least worth something. If you're reading this blog, chances are you probably won't be ordering one of these any time soon, but it is worth knowing that in very rare cases, things are expensive for a very real reason. My Nonna would have loved this tie, for it's Italian-ness as well as the beauty of it's construction and material. She was like that.

Grazie, Gianni.

p.s. Speaking of ties, look for a follow up to this story soon. It's been really interesting the way this has developed, and I look forward to sharing the results with you.

p.p.s. In the Shameless Self Promotion Department, Spring Clearance Sale is happening now in the AAW Shop.

Free Stuff : Wool Scarf from The Tie Bar

I was recently offered a wool scarf from the Tie Bar to review here. For those that don't know, the Tie Bar is an online shop specializing in inexpensive ties and accessories. The scarves are a relatively new venture for them, and they asked me if I wouldn't mind sharing my thoughts on one here. I chose the one above, in a pattern they call "Bucktown Houndstooth", a small scale brown and tan houndstooth check with rust and hunter green accents.

I'll begin by saying I'm a fan. The wool is soft against the skin, and the scarf is a full six feet log, plenty of length to tie in a know and cover the chest for warmth. At $25, I think this is a real value, as most inexpensive scarves I've come across are either not as long or not as soft. Made in China, its true, but so are the one's at Target or any other such place and at least the Tie Bar offers them in a better choice of classic patterns than many places.

They also offer a wide range of neckties and bow ties, most for $15 or so. If you're building a tie wardrobe on a budget and can't shop thrift like I do, these could be a good option. True, they have some very flashy options I don;t really care for, but they also have stripes, plaids, and classic small patterns in wool, silk, and cotton, as well as an extensive collection of knits in both wool and silk. You can even narrow your search by width of tie, which ranges anywhere from 2-3 1/2 inches, so whether you're young and hip and into the high and tight look, or a burgeoning old fart like me who prefers a more classic cut, they've got you covered. Most websites I've encountered tend to cater to one camp or the others. I've often considered checking out some of the knit stripes, but was wary of the quality. There are a lot of fun socks offered for $8.00 a pair that look like a deal too, as well as some silk braces for $25, also not a bad price (just stay away from the clip-on suspenders. I don't care how many dudes are wearing them in Italy right now). This scarf has convinced me that their other products are likely to be well worth the money. 

Free Stuff: Pons Avarcas (or, late to the party, part 3)

Let me begin this post by saying that I've never been a sandals kind of guy. Also, be warned that for the more hard lined traditionalists among you, this post may induce wailing and gnashing of teeth.

I was recently sent this pair of Pons Avarcas for review. Avarcas are a type of sandal made on the island of Menorca off the coast of Spain. The name is actually government protected, much like a wine appellation. When the good people at Avarcas USA contacted me to see if I wold like to try a pair, my first inclination, as some of you might expect, was rejection out of hand, as sandals are not something I have ever considered wearing. But these were different. For one thing, they cover much of the front of the foot, thus giving a much more finished appearance than say, a flip flop. For another, the materials and construction appeared to be of high quality, and the  business is family owned and operated. Lastly, the original avarcas were made using recycled car tired for sole in the 1920s, so both my recycling and "old stuff" buttons were being pushed simultaneously. I'll admit, I was intrigued.

In the last few years, I have come around to wearing proper Spanish espadrilles in Summer, and I'm glad of it. I recently saw an old European guy wearing plaid shorts and a tennis shirt, untucked with both buttons buttoned, with some similar sandals and I couldn't help but admire his effortless euro-prep style. Plus, I do derive from Mediterranean stock, so I figure I can justify at least a try. 

I figured that given the time of year I'd have to put these away as soon as they arrived, but then we got this stinko heatwave in Boston. I can tell you that the leather is of excellent quality as is the construction. I wore them around the house, but was a little shy of taking them outside. They are comfortable, and I felt right away that these would become really great with years of wear.

The next day, I took them out for a spin, with plaid shorts and a tennis shirt, a la our old gent, and I was surprised at how much I enjoyed them. Besides being comfortable, I actually forgot I was wearing them, a sure sign of the best clothing. Its no good being to conscious of your clothes. Tres gauche. By the third day, I was happy to don them again.

These would be excellent at the beach of course, and on vacation in warm places. But I think they do just fine for daily activities around the old town. Since the whole top of my foot is covered, I tend not to notice them too much out of the bottom of my eyes, you know, like when you have on shoes that are too white.  And while I wouldn't them out to dinner, I see no problem wearing them to the taqueria at noon.

The short answer is, I really like these, more than I would have thought. I feel oddly inclined to apologize, but I won't. Because really, a dose of languid old world European charm is often just the thing to keep all your striped ties and navy blazers from making you look like a stuffy old man.

They cost $75 a pair. Truthfully, I'm not in the habit of splurging for shoes, but when we consider the level of quality here and the fact that good shoes will run you around $300 at least, I'd say they are priced fairly. My penny loafers will still be the go-to choice with trousers in Summer, and the old Quoddy's will continue to see fair rotation. But I can see these becoming the shoe of choice with shorts next July. I guess that speaks to both the quality of this product and the truth in the fact that style is an ever evolving thing.

Free Stuff : LSTN Headphones (or: ain't nothing like the real thing)

Recently, I was sent a pair of headphones for review by LSTN,  a relative newcomer on the scene. LSTN offers earbuds and headphones made of wood reclaimed from the scraps of the furniture industry. So far, so good. They also donate a portion of their sales to programs that help deaf children. So much the better. I can dig it.

When they first contacted me, they offered a pair of earbuds, what they call their Bowery model. I replied that while I liked what they were about, as an avid vinyl/analog enthusiast, earbuds were essentially useless to me, and I could hardly give them an objective critique. They decided to send me a pair of Troubadors, which  retail for $150. I anticipated their arrival excitedly. As a music lover with an extensive vinyl collection who usually gets home well past everyone's bedtime, getting a good set of phones has been on my "to do" list for some time. Getting a pair made of wood was un-heard-of.

When they arrived in the mail, I sure did think they were pretty. Cherry wood cans, with separate left and right inputs tipped in cherry. Only trouble was, they had a 3.5 mm jack on the end, and the big old analog record player takes, of course, 1/4 inch RCA jack. So, I listened to them on the phone, and on the laptop. And they sound, I guess, better than other phones on the phone or the laptop. But really, what audiophile considers the phone or the laptop any kind of reasonable facsimile of actual music. On the LSTN website, there's a lot of talk about how they use wood for the same reason pianos and violins are wood; resonant acoustic qualities. So I decide to wait until I had an adapter and could put these to the test via vinyl before I formed an opinion.

So I get the hook up, and I'm all excited, and I plug it in and.....sounds like crap. Disappointment to the bone. Then I notice this dang thing:

There's this little pause switch thing on the left side of the cable. See how its wrapped in scotch tape? That's because these things only work with the Marantz amp/Pro-Ject turntable set up if the dang pause thingy is depressed, so I gotta tape it down to make it work. I gave them a hard test: "Blessing in Disguise" by the Sonny Rollins Trio on East Broadway Rundown; "The Wanton Song" by Led Zeppelin, on Physical Graffiti: and "Il Porno Star" by Shellac, on At Action Park; all on vinyl.

The phones were simply not up to the task. All the reviews I read of them before were nothing short of glowing, praising the deep bass and lack of any "clipping". But I guess none of these people listened to anything analog, or the least bit physical. That's fine, I guess, and in fairness I do suppose these phones were made for more modern, albeit perhaps inferior, modes of recording /listening. And in fairness, I am an old fuddy duddy at best. But I must say, these left me flat.

Then...

Today, about ten days hence receiving the previous pair, I walk into a thrift shop to find this box sitting on the front desk. Of course, I nabbed it immediately. No word on the maker. Googling Game Industries only brings up a lot of video game crap. Ironic.

I bet you can already tell where this is going.....

grade school hearing test 1984 style....

Do I even have to say it?

abundant power...sound output...practical use...exceeding power.

That's my kind of language.

I have long been of the opinion that the technology of recording and sound reproduction reached its pinnacle in the late 1970s. I stick by that belief. Without having any of the science or terminology to support my argument, I can only speak from how I feel, as both a musician and lover of music. So I gave these the same three song test as the others. With the first pair, I could barely be bothered to listen all the way through. With these, I got a chill down my back, and wanted to stay up all night listening to everything: Led Zeppelin, Sergio Mendes, Motorhead, Eric Dolphy, Brahms, you name it. Direct and bone felt deliver of the human glory that is music.

$150 for the LSTN pair, regardless of the charitable component, would have left me cold. $4.99 at the thrift store, charitable component a plus, leaves me happy in a way that can be hard to describe to those who love neither analog nor thrift shopping.

Sorry, but analog has duende, and digital simply does not. Never will, it ain't human.

Free Stuff : Beckett Simonon Shoes

A while back, I was approached by the owners of Beckett-Simonon about reviewing a pair of their shoes. For those who don't know, Beckett-Simonon produces a small range of classically styled shoes, all for $89 a pair. Their styles include longwings, derbies and chukka boots, in a selection of colors. For my pair, I chose chukkas in a medium brown called "chestnut". 

Given the amount of shopping I do in thrift stores, it can be difficult for me to be objective at times about the value of new goods. After all, I have shell cordovan shoes in my closet that should sell for over $600 that I got for less than $10. But I'll do my best to be fair.

I like the fact that Beckett-Simonon is offering new shoes at a decent price. These would be great for a younger guy just building his wardrobe, without a lot to spend. The styles are classic, the shoes are pretty well made, and I must admit, very comfortable to wear. Much of what they carry may not be dressy enough for a business suit, but they are versatile enough to work with a sports jacket and tie or jeans.  The leather may not be the best there is, bit its decent, and the shoes are less than $100. I see them the same way I see much of what J. Crew offers. It's perfectly reasonable stuff designed with a good sense of style, if perhaps a bit youthful. It's easily had, and will serve a man well until he decides to take the plunge into the better(more expensive) stuff...or if you're lucky, until you find the better stuff for nothing at thrift.

I talk a lot about thrift stores here, but it worth mentioning that for a lot of people, even veteran thrifters, old shoes can be where the line is drawn. In that case, these guys are perfect, offering something new at a fair price. 

Sizing seems to run a bit small. I wear a US 10, sometimes 9 1/2, but my pair of chukkas is a 10 1/2 and they fit fine. They've been shelved for now, but I expect will be in the regular casual/jeans rotation come Fall.

p.s. $1370 raised so far in our Indiegogo campaign. What a great start! Thanks to all who contributed and helped get the word out. Let's keep the ball rolling.

Free Stuff

I'm going to begin this post with a little disclaimer. Lately, I feel like there's been an awful lot of promotion going on around here, and my own feelings about it are mixed. Last year, as I'm sure you know, I started an online business selling my kind of second hand clothing and accessories. What began as something to do on the side has thankfully grown into more than that. One side effect of this is more promotion, shameless or otherwise, here on the blog. I try to keep it to a minimum, but simply put, stuff sells better when I tell people about it.

I've also been getting more and more offers of free goods from companies who want me to review them here. I know this seems like so much empty shilling, and maybe it is. However, I accept only a very thin selection of all the offers that come my way, and at that only ones I truly feel may be of interest to my readers. Forgive me if this seems distasteful, but I work hard at this, and I see no real problem in occasionally reaping the benefits. I assure you my reviews are always honest. Henceforth, any post dealing with review of free goods will be titled simply "Free Stuff".

photo: Hudson Sutler

Hudson Sutler is a company offering a good simple basic that anyone could use: classic duffel bags, available in a variety of colors, in two sizes. Each one is made in USA. When they offered me one to try, I opted for the 'Sconset weekend (larger) duffel. With my family and I heading to Maine for our annual vacation next week, the timing couldn't be better. And Maine is perhaps the only place besides Massachusetts where we call "Pink" "Nantucket Red" and no one bats an eye at a grown man making liberal use of the color. Good thing, because this bag is big, it's a lot of said color, however you might call it. Hudson Sutler suggests it for a  2-4 night trip, but at 20 inches wide and 12 inches in diameter at the round sides, I see no reason why my entire weeks kit won't fit in it.

photo: Hudson Sutler



It's rendered in extremely heavy 18 ounce canvas and finished with thick plastic zippers, sturdy handles and strap, and navy stitching. Inside, the lining is navy anchor print. Who ever heard of lining in a duffel bag? Not me. Aren't those things supposed to be for the gym? I ain't taking this to no gym. At $120 for the bigger (weekend) size and $95 for the smaller (commuter) size, prices are admittedly what I would call steep. But this bag is tough, and I think I'll have it for a while. I'll let you know how it fared when we get back in town. If it really is as good as they say, chances are there will be a blog post next August about a trip to Maine with this bag in it. We'll see.

p.s. round two of our excellent necktie windfall is available in the Shop. Special thanks to Put This On for featuring our first batch last week.

p.p.s. Damn, this whole post is about selling stuff and getting free stuff. Yikes.